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Shit. That's really bad news. It'd be worth posting on the mcr sub forum too. The thief probably has no idea what they've taken and,ll sell it to someone locally. Someone will hopefully spot it and reposess it for you.

Cheers mdcc, would there be any benefit in going for 48h..? im only 9 stone so im guessing not, but not sure on this offroad stuff

48h is for tandems/heavy touring and polo. Really solid but heavier than 36 or 32. Also with 48h hubs and rims you'll have a very limited choice and will have to get them built or diy. If you're getting them built mos shops will charge approximately £0.80 per spoke and £25-£30 for labour per wheel plus whatever the cost of rim&hub you use. You'll soon cane your budget of £150.
However, I do recommend handbuilt wheels over cheaper,mass produced, machine built wheels. And if you can find a wheelbuilder willing to let you source your own hub, spokes and rim you could bring the cost right down.

seems a lot or a cracked frame

the seat post has ceased and there is a bad crack at the base of the seat tube

Includes free seat post!

shanes got wheels for you

Cool...I'll get on with it when I get home. Can't wait. No polo fix for the last 2 weeks. Might have to jump on a train next week to manc to play..

Pompetamine only has disc brake mounts. Less options for rear wheels. You'd be ok with fixed but a flip flop with fix/free wouldn't work. Also if you did decide to go for gears in the future you'd have use an Alfine or rohloff as it's only these with discs, unless you like the idea of a coaster brake.

V brakes or cantis, any 120 rear hub, from 23mm slicks to 35 mm cross Tyres. Mudgaurds or not. Rear rack if you move loads of stuff around. Coldset the rear stays and you can squeeze in an igh if you need gears. The beauty of the Pompino is it's entirely up to you, build it how you want for what ever best suits what you're Gunna use it for

It's only the darker forks for 40. The light blue are 50 and they're not showing any dark frames in stock

Gunna try and put a loaner bike together. Needing some parts. I've got an old specialized hard rock f@ f with headset,stem@bars, front brake. Gunna need to find some 26" wheels/Tyres/tubes, and bb, crankset and chain. Any donations from the northern wastelands welcome

You been falling off again Jezz? See you when I get back, I'll pop round and pick up the headset. I'll need to build up a new bike before playing again. Lost all confidence in the old one since noticing the creased top tube!!

Any idea when the new balls will be available?

Hey guys, I'm coming down to work in Chigwell for two weeks on Sunday. I'll need to get a polo fix at some point. Much better way of spending an evening than staring at a tv in my hotel room! Is it ok to turn up at some of your throwins? I've only been playing since march so probabl be a hindrance to my teammates!!
Hopefully I'll see you at Mitch one night next week.
Cheers Dave.

We (Sheffield) have used push-fit piping with shock-cord running through the frame making it easily collapsible. They are a bit lightweight though.

Same idea really, just use fatter glue together stuff and not bother glueing some joints. Just drill and pin those fittings/tube. If lightness is an issue the tubes sat on the deck could be packed with sand or something and plugged so it the packing stays put.

Don't forget corners are more dangerous than curves. Admittedly if you are hitting solid steel it's not going to make much difference, but i'd rather fall on a round pole than a square one.

+1 I wouldn't wanna see the Result of a collision with the joint between uprights and crossbar. How about 50mm solvent weld waste pipe. It's light, cheap, easy to work and readily available from any plumbers merchant. With a bit of thought a hacksaw and the right glue anyone could build goals. To collapse it for transpiration just don't glue all the fittings Drill through fitting and pipe and use pins to secure.

Haha. You've started some thing here.
On another clipless one. I had my bag lifted from a pub the other week , containing a right hand crank with a shimano m520 spd connected. Does anyone out there have a set where the left one's fucked and the right ones ok?I still can't bring myself to throw away the left pedal. Or if you see a one legged cyclist(right leg) riding in a polo gear with a fsa crank don't trust them!!!

Only on automatics!!;)

Yeah that's right, but below the crown race. Measure how long the threads are too on both sets. I've cut down threaded forks in the past to make them fit. Just wind on an old steel headset all the way after marking where to cut, so if you damage the threads you recut them winding off the old headset. If that makes sense!! :)

If you could please. They may come in useful.

Forgot to say, keep the rings it's for a ss. I'll have the bolts though. Thanks

Dibs on the ex crankset. Pm on its way

Hey tom, Interested in the shimano cranks. What's the fitting? Square taper? Are the rings removable of riveted on? What length arms? Can't find no info on 300ex but haven't looked to hard! Cheers Dave

if this rain doesn't srop Ipropose pedalo polo!!

Brought an m6l 2nd hand about 2 years ago. Not sure how old it is but it's got the Sachs spectra hub. Regularly greased the bearings, cleaned the chain and pumped the marathon plusses up to 100psi. Nether had anything fail apart from the right crankarm coming away from the front cog one day climbing a stupidly steep hill in Yorkshire. I replaced it with a brompton crank an pray it doesn't happen again. At Least there's no crossbar on the brompton!!!

Get some brakes!!!

Boo:(

Didn't fall the first time but found dealing with a coaster brake and spd's interesting. Ditched the coaster in the end due to lack of control in wintery conditions and not wanting to use the front too heavily on the slippy stuff but not being able to pedal and brake with the back to keep it from locking. Ended up using my face as a brake;( the pedals have stayed and I've fitted a proper brake. How do they manage in holand?