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Would rep

What layout did you use for that?

Can bent QRs be trusted? Not massively so, I can still pull it through the axle.

SOLD! PM me your address @Glws and I'll get them in the post.

Cheers, let's give it a couple of days for them to come back if they'd like to.

@Glws and @user86106, not heard from you via PMs. Still keen?

I think this is likely to be the case. The rim seems to now have a sharp S-bend in it at one spot, which is too short to really be removed by adjusting the tension. It feels like the rim needs to be bent straight in that area and then relaced, but I have no idea what to use as a reference surface to get it flat before rebuilding. Probably too much arseache anyway.

you may only have a couple of loose spokes causing it to be 2cm out.

I wish that were true. In fact what happened was that a substantial load was applied sideways to it while the back wheel was in a stand, which substantially pringled it, before it pinged back to within a few cm. Some judicious bending later and it's back to no more than a cm out, so I'm wondering whether I can get it back properly true with spoke retensioning.

If a wheel gets significantly buckled (i.e., bent by sideways force so that it's out of true by a couple of centimetres) is it safe to use if it can be brought back to (acceptably) true? Or is it new bike time?

Did these go? @Foreigner65

I think the whole point is that as long as the nut and bridge are rigidly separated then what is separating them isn't that important in terms of tone (certainly compared to pickup position) the strings have a node at each end and the movement of the string relative to the pickup creates the signal. For hollow-bodies it may be more complex inasmuch as the brigde may not be purely a node and energy that the string puts into the body as a result may be returned to the string later.

I'm not sure that's true, I think they both get by not because they're perceived as clever but because of being perceived as straightforward and coming from the upper class of their respective countries.

"the younger man punched him twice in the farm buggy"

Ow.

I have a pair of Dalbellos and they are awesome. I wasn't aware of any inherent disadvantages to a 3-piece boot design, but if there are they're more than compensated for by the improved fit (for me).

I think there's real "spiritual" value in making a beautiful thing that will last, so there's no harm in using expensive wood, but I think you're right about the other I suspect that things that affect the gross rigidity of the structure that holds the nut away from the bridge will count for something (so possibly glued vs. bolt-on neck), but things like saddle material are most likely more or less irrelevant. Acoustics are probably a different story given that you're actually trying to make parts of the guitar body vibrate to generate sound, rather than just giving the string a solid base to vibrate relative to.

You do have to be pretty careful with it, double checking your marks etc. I even found that the reflection of the mark in a steel rule was useful to check that I was setting up the fence the right distance from the mark to put the saw blade where I wanted it. If you can be arsed with that though I found I could cut to within a mm or so over the length of an 8ft board.

That is awesome. I love the fact that it essentially destroys the idea of tonewood (or at least makes it largely irrelevant next to pickup choice and position).

Even if you don't make one of those guides, using the factory edge of a board is still a perfectly good way of getting a straight cut. The additional step is knowing the number of mm back from the mark that you need to clamp it to the board that you're cutting.

Alternatively @terlg if you're making wardrobes they quite often require lots of rectangles with the same depth for the base, top, sides and shelves. If you get your supplier to rip the boards into long planks of that width, then you're just left with the cross-cutting to do.

Are you using road or mtb ht2?

I'm not using either, in fact I've specifically passed up on some HT2 cranks (in favour of square taper) for kids bikes where I want to make the q-factor as narrow as possible. TBH, I've never worked out how the HT2 BB and crank combinations are meant to work with regard to 68mm vs 73mm BB shells. From what I can work out (happy to be corrected), they use the same width BB, but just use fewer spacers if you have a 73mm shell, so there's no reduction in q-factor as a result of having a narrower (68mm) BB shell, which seems nuts.

I'm really quite meh about HT2 because of the lack of flexibility regarding chain line and q-factor. I like that square taper cranks can be set up as far inboard as possible on 1x systems by just dropping a afew £ on a new BB. With HT2 tinkering is basically impossible.

Sage fake-espresso bean-to-cup thing

"Fake" how? I've generally been quite impressed with the one that I've tried.

Gorgeous frame and absolutely peak dadbike.

Happy Birthday!

Just for balance, in our last place we had 2 sets of MDF alcove cupboards. The first was built by a carpenter and painted in oil-based satinwood by painters they work with; the second was built by me and painted (again by me) in Dulux water-based satinwood. Although the build quality for my cupboards was (natch) at least as good the paint job was much better on the first set. The painters did an excellent job and the paint dried very, very hard which made it extremely durable. The water-based pain, in contrast, always retained a slightly tacky (latexy?) feel, which meant that heavy items would mark it given enough time and books at the end of the shelves were always slightly adhered to the sides of the cupboard; not damagingly so, but enough to make a slight noise when removed. FWIW YMMV etc.

It's just so fucking frustrating. I've recently got back into running and have a lovely flat 3-mile route that I can take. I've been doing that once or twice a week for the last month or so followed each time by some fairly comprehensive stretching. The problem is that it just progressively tightens up my right ITB to the point where it won't relax in the 2-3 days between runs and causes me lateral knee pain for cycling and other everyday shit like climbing down stairs. It's getting to the point where it's just not worth it if I have to follow every single run with an hour of stretching plus half an hour of roller work/massage every day in between. sigh

I haven't thought very deeply about it, but surely it would help with generational inequality of boomers living in town houses that they bought for £5k in 1975 and are now valued at £2.5m, while generation rent fork out £2k a month for a shoe box? If they are going to live in relative luxury compared to others, surely fair that they take on a higher tax load to pay for public services that are to the benefit of all?

Is it fair? I suspect most of them just wanted somewhere to live that wouldn't cost them rent. I don't care if my house stalls in value as long as the rest of the housing market does the same.

I agree about generational inequality, but I'm not sure how to get round the basic Catch-22 of tax on primary dwellings, which is that it would tax people on the ownership of an asset that they might have to sell in order to afford the tax that is being levied on it. Essentially (unlike any other asset that I can think of) you're basically telling people "you're not allowed to own that unless you're rich enough to pay an arbitrary cost that the state will impose on you." That's not a complaint against state intervention at some level, I'm just not convinced a primary property tax is it.