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Er, no. Plants are alive but not, in a philosophical sense, living. When an animal dies, it continues to live through the same micro-processes that plants do, but no-one would say it is still living.

But you wouldn't say that a dead plant is still living either.

The substance of an animal is its life.
What does that actually mean?

This morning: Men of Harlech (bizarrely)

^ This.

My knobs have small diagram of the hobs with the correct one marked black, which is a lots easier to tell.

Something that simple shouldn't need instructions. Not even a diagram to show you what's what. Also, I've seen hobs with those diagrams worn off. Then what eh? Eh?!!!!!!! Starvation... coma... death. That's what.

Holy crap... that's madness.

I don't know whether that particular bit of insanity has ever actually been built. I think it's just given as a hypothetical instance of an entirely arbitrary/random relationship between a set of controls and the things that they control. The problem is that any way that you arrange the controls in a straight line you still have to memorise the relationship. If you lay the controls out in the same pattern as the hobs (a 2x2 grid) you don't have to remember anything because it's instantly apparent what controls what.

I think it's actually a really good idea. Especially if you have memory or mental health issues.

We have an Italian hob with dials that make no sense or have any correlation to the gas rings placing. I wish I'd have thought of something similar rather than wasting time remembering the random order.

It's a classic example of poor design.

I've just drilled off one that was pop-riveted on. That might fix it into a larger hole, although the rivet did interfere with the cartridge bb.

Quick thought re. adult training: offer free 3rd party insurance for a year or two with every level 3 certificate.

Dibs gatorskins

There's a hole in the bottom bracket for my existing cable guide to push into. The latest guides require an additional hole to be drilled in the frame to mount them. I'd prefer not to do this and keep it original if at all possible.

Genuinely confused by this as I've never seen one that requires more than a single hole under the bb shell. Where do they require an extra hole? The one that Vince shows has 2 holes, but isn't that just to give some flexibility with mounting position?

A friend of mine described her bike as "gimcrack"...

...I think it was a Foffa.

Change the image of cycle training from riding very slowly through cones in a car park to something that can be integrated into a pleasant trip around the streets of a nice area (obviously this is applicable for higher-level adult training, rather than teaching kids how to ride bikes).

I've been looking on eBay for months, they're always bolt or screw on guides. I don't want to drill a hole in the frame so I need the push on version.

Out of interest, how does a push-on one attach if not through a hole in the BB shell? The one pictured in the OP looks like it has a stud that locates in a hole to fix it on.

Is the antigravity unit included with the desk? Could be a useful spacesaver.

quilted jacket, shirt buttoned up with no tie (guaranteed to make anyone look like a twat)

I'm hardly a dedicated follower of fashion, but I've genuinely never understood either of these. The quilted jacket just makes it look like you've put it on inside out. The buttoned up shirt makes it look like either you've forgotten to put a tie on or you've got OCD and can't stand the idea of having all the buttons on your shirt done up except one.

Can anyone recommend a front light for £20 or under. Something that is easily removable like the knog skink?

I've got an electron milli that is quite bright and seems robust. I got mine free when I joined LCC. Might be worth checking if that offer is still on.

Really long shot: does anyone have the tool for milling down a fork crown race seat from JIS (27.0mm) to ISO (26.5mm)? This is for a beater so I really can't be bothered paying for it. If nobody has the tool I'll just go at it carefully with some sandpaper.

If you post the frame or even tubing type, someone might be able to tell you what size seatpost you need. My 531 Raleigh is 27.2mm, my gaspipe (18-30) Raleigh is 25.4mm.

Is the el 135 shit? I was planning on buying one tomorrow...

Nothing wrong with them. Good little commuter light if you want to be seen, I've got 2. Good value too if you get them as part of a set, like this.

Edit: Mine have been working for a good few years so I don't know why yours have conked out. Check the battery connections?

I can't see why it would matter what type of bolt you use. If the sides of the original clamp are touching (as they appear to be) and it's still slipping you should probably double check that you've got the right diameter seatpost in. Otherwise I guess you'll have to cut a wider notch in the seat tube to allow it to pinch up more.

P.S. The black thing at the top of the photo is a light bracket and nothing to do with this problem right?

Shouldn't the bolt head bottom out on the boss before it contacts the bushing that the brake runs on? In other words, shouldn't the bushing be shorter than the boss? That way you can never clamp the canti between the bolt head and the base of the boss, which would restrict its movement.

I've always found that this is the case, so I've been able to torque the bolts up with impunity. On this basis grease, coppaslip, or threadlock would be fine.

They're £20 new at decathlon so £14 posted?

Tapped & Packed on Tottenham Court Rd near Warren St. or the Sacred shack in Torrington Square if it's still open.

Hmmmm, I've always taken speed off using the rear brake first then applied the front to finish an actual stop or take a corner. Habitual technique from Downhill racing days...... possibly not correct on the roads but it works for me.....

Sheldon on braking

In short "Maximum braking occurs when the front brake is applied so hard that the rear wheel is just about to lift off. At that point, the slightest amount of rear brake will cause the rear wheel to skid."

Also, front wheels are cheaper to replace than rear wheels, so best to wear them down first.

Then I think we really are talking of cart level technology. Boneshaker - wooden wheels, iron tyres with pedals on the front wheel, add a sprung seat mount if you wish. Cheating? No need to reinvent the wheel when bikes were originally designed for exactly the scenario you are looking at.

^This. If you're going to reject anything that will ever wear out and can't be repaired by simply hitting it with a rock then we should just go back a couple of hundred years.

If we have more reasonable expectations that you might have a spanner and an allen key and an occasional chance to scavenge then obviously you'll want to standardise as much as possible e.g., 26" wheels rather than 700c because the tyres are easier to find.

The interesting bit, I reckon, is identifying components that will genuinely last a lifetime, like Royce bottom brackets, and maximising the lifespan of the bits you'll have to scavenge for. So on that basis it would be a fixed gear, chain-drive with full length chain case running on the best sealed bearings (BB and hubs) that you can find. Steel frame, as that could be welded back together (or go stainless). Your tubes will puncture and when you've run out of patches, stuff them with something squidgy, or go for solid tyres straight off. Front brake is a problem since all bike brakes wear down, if you went disc you'd save your wheel, but pads would be easier to replace or carry. Maybe a rod brake acting on a solid tyre would be the best option.

Did anyone pick up some silver R316 calipers in the CRC sale? I bought loads of other calipers to try out but not the 316s and, annoyingly, I think they're the only ones with the drop that I need.

I only really need 1, although 2 would be better. I don't care if they're back or front and I don't need the pads. If you have one (or more) PM me, I'll pay cashmoney or I can swap for a pair of the other shorter-drop types (r310, r350)

Cheers, ffm