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I'm pretty sure the ratios are 4:3, 1:1, 3:4 giving uneven steps between gears (epicyclic gear box).
It might be worth checking the maths - 46/19 should give 87 65 and 49GI which could be quite usable, depending on the full implications of "a girl who isn't a very good cyclist".
I'm finding 91 69 and 51GI about right (55 yr old / 85 kg male on the Clee Hills) but given how cheap and easy it is to change the sprocket (search YouTube, disconnect cable, remove wheel, remove spring clip, take old sprocket off, place new sprocket on, replace spring clip, replace wheel, reconnect cable, adjust cable) I'd be tempted to leave the front end and tinker with sprocket sizes until your girl is comfortable and approves - there's little point in gearing you think is correct if it doesn't get used (voice of experience - Mrs. E and myself disagree significantly over ratios and correct use of gears)

https://www.lfgss.com/comments/12045470/
https://www.lfgss.com/comments/12046613/
And yes, Dammit had eyelets glued on. For a time.
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/223068/?offset=3225
I think there was a solution involving other people and other adhesives?

Lighter fuel? - may be a bit less 'assertive' than meths and perhaps less likely to take the paint off.

"Look more ratty" or actually be more ratty?
The patina that comes with use takes time, wear, and probably an oily rag.
http://www.sprayonrustpaint.co.uk/ if you're in a hurry...

Many years ago- in the last century even - I sent my technician to scrounge a couple of shopping baskets as part of an' A' level product design exam - every school offering the exam needed at least two, but couldn't tell anyone why. Needless to say it was difficult, and the main reason for the local shops not co-operating was the cost of a shopping basket. I gained two important bits of information: AQA Product Design was run by idiots, and shopping baskets cost over £25 each in the late 90s.

tl;dr yes they're expensive.

Moped / autocycle panniers are suitably cavernous and weight is not an issue: I carry a small bottle of sanitizing hand gel as part of the tool kit - used frequently for hand cleaning after roadside 'maintenance' and theoretically* might act as an alternative lubricant. Drum brakes front and rear means I shouldn't have to worry about lubricating the braking surfaces.

*one of my many unproven theories - as yet untested given to the lack of punctures so far, and if I'm wrong my insurance includes recovering the bike to home...

Read this yesterday with interest. My difficulties are with 2-19 moped tyres on 60 year old chromed steel rims - clearly different to TB14s, but much the same problem of a 'tight' tyre.
Entertained myself for a few hours yesterday evening, comprehensively failing to fit a tyre, even after following all the advice I could find.
Decided the biggest problem was getting the tyre to move in and out of the 'well' in the middle of the rim.
Lubricated with diluted washing up liquid this morning - went on easily with a pair of plastic tyre levers...

Screwed the battens to the wall - packed with wedges / scrap to give vertical - marked a constant distance from the wall to give a guideline - remove screws and cut to line.

Similar problem at a previous house: I resorted to battens shaped on one side to the profile of the wall using a spoke shave - doubtless there is a more modern power tool that will do the job, but shavings are much easier to clear up than dust. Said battens varied from 1/4" to 1. 1/4" thick, and allowed a ply panel to be fitted true, or at least as close enough, screwing through the ply and batten into the wall.
The biggest problem I found was drilling into Victorian brick - carbide masonry drills were good for no more than two holes...

Congratulations on mental discipline regarding self reward.
An observation on evil-looking spiders: if you're lucky they are thriving by eating swarms of bendy-legged blood sucking mosquito type bastards that would otherwise spoil a good barbecue by being higher in the food chain than you are.
BTW nice path - didn't destroy the lawn or border - well done.

Given that you need the slot (or two halves) to get it round the seat tube and tighten up, 1.1/4"x16swg aluminium tube and a hacksaw would be close enough and give you 50 such shims for half the price.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminium-Round-Tube-Pipe-/281138606896?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=580271779796&hash=item41752ab330
Then sell the unwanted 49 shims to cover your costs...

Cheap enough / soft enough to file to size?

I've just paid £170 for the annual service for a gas boiler and fire.
That would offset quite a bit of price difference between gas and electric heating - plus all the cost and issues of certification if you're a landlord - right up to the point where your electric heater burns out due to insufficient flow (hot tap not turned on full) which happened more than once at my parent's place...

Roger Dean (Views) was part of the background when I was studying. Most of the common room walls were covered with posters - admittedly this was a time when a triple album sleeve was 4 feet long and a foot high (Yessongs) - something you don't get with a download...
http://www.rogerdean.com/picture-database/

Most brokers have an 'instant quote' link on their websites though you'll need details such as registration number and current mileage possibly. I've recently used Peter James Insurance (http://www.peterjamesinsurance.co.uk/) having been thoroughly pissed off by Lexham's couldn't-care-less attitude since they were bought by Ageas.
What impressed me was the on-line quote exactly matched the one over the phone, and the lad who answered the phone was not thrown by odd requirements such as insurance for an unregistered 1950s 'moped' using a bicycle frame number.
Answering the original question, £84 for two mopeds fully comp and unlimited mileage, but then I'm old(ish) and the bikes are older still - no idea for something modern with 'gt' in the name.

The last one I did had notches in the tail to allow it to be broken off to length - pliers or similar might be easier to find than a hacksaw and vise to hold the tail while sawing?
I'm thinking DIY using likely bike tools rather than precision engineering (cost of a coffee versus call out plus an hour)
I'd offer some real-world help (as you did) but Shropshire is probably a bit too far away...

If you've got a replacement lock I'd be tempted to give it a go - especially if you're only changing the barrel. The only tools needed are a suitable screwdriver and possibly a pair of pliers. Google 'yale lock replacement' and see what YouTube suggests - at least take the screws out and cover plate off the existing lock to see if 'call out' plus an hour is worth it ...

Presta valves will lock closed and can be easily cleaned before inflating - schrader valves can
suffer from unseen debris preventing a good seal and so should be used with a dust cap. Some people don't like dust caps...

Sheet 'wood stuff' will need to be quite thick for what you want, otherwise it will bend - that will make it heavy, unwieldy in a confined space, difficult to store when not in use and likely to damage things if not secured when travelling.

Try a google image search for caravan bed slats for inspiration - webbing should be cheap enough, 38x19 timber shouldn't be too expensive from a timber merchant (not B&Q) and a cheap staple gun should cope with softwood.

I've also had intermittent asthma for the last forty years or so - sometimes months without a problem, sometimes needing an inhaler every few hours. FWIW, cats, dogs and exercise in cold air provoke an attack for me, and sometimes moving from cold air to warm & humid (e.g. straight from bike into pub in winter) but a blue inhaler keeps it all manageable. As mentioned above, a pre-exercise puff generally works, and if I don't anticipate sufficiently it just means a few minutes looking at the view instead of pedaling while waiting for Ventolin to do it's thing.

If you have any choice, go for proper Ventolin - generic salbutamol inhalers use the same active ingredient but Ventolin supposedly uses a much finer powder which disperses better and penetrates further.

tl;dr asthma = scary but can usually be managed. Carry inhaler and carry on.

You might know this already...

Printing for exhibition purposes is a slightly different game. Immediately your audience is further away - several paces rather compared with less than arms length - so bigger is generally better, assuming the image is of a suitable quality.

I'd be inclined to scan, photoshop as required (enlargement and cropping at least) and try some variations on hue tone sharpness etc. Print the variations 5x7 / A5 on whatever printer you have access to and then be critical and selective before having expensive 12x18 / A3 prints made.

It might even be worth doing a bit of reading before scanning - much of the logic regarding digital camera settings applies equally to negative scanning, e.g.
http://photography.about.com/od/developingandprinting/ss/howbigcaniprintmyphotos.htm

Apologies if I'm suggesting the obvious - you can always go to https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/187128/ and complain about condescending old gits.

DIY or someone else doing it for you?

I have a Plustek negative scanner / hp printer and a Gnome Master II / Ilford chemicals - there are advantages to each, but I get more satisfaction from 'them there olden day' processes and mostly I prefer the finished print - balanced against time and convenience and not being (quite) as anti-social. In terms of print quality I really couldn't say...

(Opens the can of worms marked 'Best')

http://www.sorbeadindia.com/silica-gel-white.html?gclid=CPrPpoP2u8MCFWSWtAodO04ACA

-in sandwich box with some cunning way of keeping the phone above the level of the crystals?

As with most products, fewer processes -> shorter manufacturing time -> lower manufacturing costs. Some will argue against the use of three or four components (badge + rivets) and additional processing of the head tube when a single self adhesive unit will be just as appropriate and not have the visual intrusion of fastenings. There may also be an issue with the clearance required for conventional rivets between the head tube inner and the steerer?

I suspect any weakness introduced by holes for rivets is so marginal that by the time it becomes a problem there will be other significant issues to deal with. However, the Moots badge looks to be screwed on - different game - and the thread root could act as a notch but then we'd have to do maths with k1c values and other incomprehensible shit.

Having said that I've spent unreasonable time making a snap and head tube dolly for rivets turned from aluminium bar to refit a Raleigh badge. Mrs.E. describes it as Engineering OCD ...
#notworkingintheindustry
#notworking

We've had some excellent short breaks with Premier Inn, at Westminster Bridge (Waterloo) and County Hall - not sure how it would work with kids, but fine for adults coming in by train and wanting to do tourist stuff on a budget.