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... a building manager who should at least know if there is a service contract?

Pure speculation on my part.

Original post from @gretsch refers to wheeling - balancing on the back wheel allows more precise indoor cornering?
https://www.lfgss.com/comments/12668454/
My hall has an interesting gouge in the plaster at the height a pedal would be if I wasn't as careful as I claim to be when carrying through the house.
MrsE bought me a tub of Tetrion for my birthday - I suspect she's worked it out.

Time to inspect the filters in the 'new' office air conditioning unit?

I was thinking with more emphasis on removable (every time it needs wheeling through the flat)

Would a conventional flap hold with a nylock wing nut?

Oddly, I was down a coal mine from age 18 - 27.
In the last decade or so it seemed to be workshop dust (mostly wood and MDF) that was the issue - worse when the cleaning contract was reduced and the daily wet cleaning became once a term.

Anything leaving the tyre above the 3 o'clock position will have a forward vector greater than the speed of the bike i.e. the spray is travelling faster than you are. Physics is against you if you need that part of the wheel clear for wheeling through your flat...
Removable flap or extension? Something ingenious involving velcro or press studs?

FWIW my asthma was controlled by salbutamol from mid twenties to early fifties - I appear to have grown out of it, which coincides with retirement and reduced exposure to students and an inadequately cleaned workshop environment. Got any new potential triggers in your life recently?
As a separate issue, my GP will only prescribe Ventolin, not generic salbutamol - he claims that although the ingredients and dosage are the same, the particle size is smaller, making it more effective.

Looking good!
Not unlike the metallic 'coffee' finish Raleigh used in the 70s ?
I'd be interested to know how a loaded frame-mounted rack changes the handling with small wheels - I didn't like the effects of weight on a fork-mounted rack on my Twenty and soon went back to a rear rack.

A lot of low temperature programs rely on long soak times with occasional agitation - achievable in a bucket where the grubbiest bits can also be attacked with a brush. A long rinse with dilute Jeyes Ibcol or similar should sort anything living in the fabric causing stink. 3-4 hours Stergene, stirring every time I go past / think about it, quick rinse, 3-4 hours Ibcol, drip dry, has sorted stinking canvas shoes and trainers without problems, re-finishing leather bits with Renapur once dry - it also avoids possible issues with buckles damaging the washing machine...

Try phoning the Green Spark Plug Company - they were very helpful when I was looking for an obscure motorbike plug.
http://www.gsparkplug.com/contacts
Although your part isn't listed on their site, they might be able answer your question or suggest an alternative?

What is the weight difference between a 5 speed external plus derailleur (plus hanger?) and a 3 speed internal hub?
Mrs.E went from hating to not noticing when she went from external gears to Sturmey Archer 3 speed - from cycling occasionally to humor me to wanting to use her bike and not noticing a weight penalty that is a small proportion of the overall weight (bike + rider + handbag)
Stripping and lubricating the hub has come down to about an hour, once a year, regarded as something I do as part of my domestic duties.
Possibly seek an opinion from obligatory girlfriend?

Prepared to pay over the odds for 'I need it now' and someone else's idea of 'ready to ride'? £90 is a joke - £60 is still on the steep side.

I suspect in a few weeks time you'd be working on it and replacing parts to make it more acceptable - if that is the case, I'd look for a lower priced starting point.

Not a thread on here, but might be of interest.
http://raleightwenty.webs.com/

https://www.lfgss.com/comments/8727404/
Overall length 1450mm (57")
Part of my original thinking was a bike that would do everything and fit in the car without disassembly. However,Mrs. E's elderly Raleigh Twenty (http://raleightwenty.webs.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=196048688)
-weighs about the same and when folded uses less than half the boot floor - needless to say I've bought one as well
(http://raleightwenty.webs.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=199982715)
The grey R20 cost £12 from ebay - I've spent on tyres and paint, but recouped more than that by selling the unwanted pedals, brake levers, stand and safety bracket as 'vintage Raleigh, suit Chopper'. If fitting into a coach luggage bay is the main issue, a bit more size and weight than a Brompton might not be a problem, but price (50 Raleigh Twentys to the Brompton?) might be the clincher?

I'd still look at the carb first - quicker and easier, fewer gaskets, fewer tools, and if you find sludge or rust particles you've probably nailed the cause. Removing the head would be next (assuming you can't see anything through the plug hole or exhaust port) knowing what you find will be more likely to be symptoms than a cause.
http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/piston_diag_guide.htm and similar (I know, not a Vespa, but similar engineering) might help when peering down dark holes?
You can always blame the ethanol - it used to be quite the thing on NACC runs to blame E5 for all forms of breakdown...

If it was my (elderly) moped it would be sludge or rust particles in the float chamber causing the float to stick with resulting fuel starvation. It does it every now and then because the Amal in-line filter (alloy body, nylon mesh) looks the part but is little more than a strainer: something less period and more effective (with a transparent body and paper element) is needed at some point.
It might be just a blip but it's probably worth looking into - clean the outside of the carb first, have the jets out and remove the top of the float chamber - large particles making their way into the combustion chamber are a bad thing, so if you find anything at all it's definitely time to fit a (better) filter. Hot spots, pre-ignition, holed piston and broken rings are possibilities as well as a scored bore...

Very much a plumbing solution for fastening pipes/tubes to stuff.

Larger diameters tend to look less agricultural - clamp screws are smaller in proportion to the rest of it - and the cast ring is usually more substantial than a P clip.

I'd be thinking about filing the end of the stud to the same angle as the seatpost then silver soldering a cross piece / mounting plate to offer a vertical surface for the light.
I'd also use a locking nut rather than locktite, and possibly replace the allthread by counter-bored 10mm bar threaded at one end only. Eventually it evolves into a seatpost-mounted-saddlebag-support-with-fitting-points-for-a-light, but that's a clumsy name so let's call it a rack for short?

Clee Cycles used to be 10 minutes away before they moved into Bridgnorth. I found everything (I wanted) to be incredibly expensive even before they had a shiny new showroom to pay for...

28mm Munsen ring and a shim? Possibly with aforementioned filed V-brake washers to compensate for the seat tube angle?

Will this
http://www.velovitality.co.uk/products/busch-muller-single-bolt-rear-bracket
fit anywhere?
Perhaps on a short bracket off the rear brake mount?

What hasn't been said is whether VAT was paid at the time of import (google DVLA NOVA)
You might need to pay £800 - £1000 just to be in a position to apply for registration?
Having just jumped through the hoops to get a registration (including 'proving' that a machine without documents or registration number had not been exported and then re-imported) I wouldn't do it again willingly.

https://www.lfgss.com/comments/9221593/ etc. - 3 years on and still in use with no sign of delamination.
More recently I've used the plastic stiffener from the middle of a dead laptop bag which seems about right at 1.1mm thick

By going used / NOS you could use the ones originally designed for it?
http://raleightwenty.webs.com/thedaweskingpin.htm
Searching e-bay for pletscher might work, or something might catch your eye here:
http://raleightwenty.webs.com/touringtwenties.htm
I made front and rear racks for a 'shopper' some years ago. In practice, I tend to use one or the other, rarely both - it might be worth trying just one to start with. FWIW I use the rear one most.
https://www.lfgss.com/post2858812-203.html

This is purely speculation, based partly on troubleshooting badly abused cheap cameras in a school environment - TVEI Photography probably didn't make it to Berlin...

With time and use, the seals will suffer permanent set, i.e. deformation that does not recover when pressure is removed, which will compromise it's ability to conform to the lip around the edge of the back.
If the back is distorted by having a twist to it, modest hand pressure could hold the top edge in full contact with the seal and allow a gap to open at one side of the bottom edge. Similar pressure at the bottom edge would cause this gap to close but a similar sized gap to appear at the top edge but on the other side - imagine the back rocking on opposing diagonal corners. Potentially there might be a mid position where the back 'just' seals all round, and any light leakage will depend on how you are holding the camera and the temperature of the back and the body (curvature of ribbed plates being a function of thermal expansion - had any hot days this year?)

Some play is to be expected in the hinge, but it might be worth opening the back and looking for signs of the free edge (side with the catch) being at an angle to the axis of the hinge pin.
If you're going to run a test roll, try applying deliberate pressure to the back at top left, then top right, bottom left, and bottom right before taping one edge at a time - and keep notes on what you did, in what order, so the results can be interpreted correctly and you gain more information than 'it leaks' or 'it doesn't'.

Equally, I could be talking a load of (overly verbose) rubbish...

A leak that coincides with frame spacing suggests the issue is with the camera not the processing.
Full width of the film suggests the leak is from the back, not from the front (not shutter, lens mount etc.)
That it moves relative to the frame implies that it does not originate from a single source such as a hole or crack in the body or back.
I would inspect the back, looking for distortion (twisting?) of the back itself or play in the hinge - something that might permit slight movement when the camera is handled. The impression of closing tight may be caused by the seal being highly compressed in one area but barely touching in another, giving intermittent sealing?
Are there any common factors to the frames with leaks? Hot weather? One handed operation? Case on or case off? Tripod?

Boyle's Law?
Some assumptions needed regarding air temperature in the tire - say 50C (273+50=323K) for example - and that the internal volume of the tire remains constant.

likely pressure when hot = 140x323/293 = 154psi
or
starting pressure to give 140psi when hot = 140x293/323 = 127psi

The flaw in the argument is an assumed temperature - the real answer would be to check the actual pressure this afternoon. An even bigger problem is I've just noticed the time - you're probably not going to see this until you get back, in which case you'll know the answer...