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Engineers vice bolted to a suitably hefty board - 25mm ply for example.
G-clamp the board to whatever is handy, or hold it in a workmate.

For some of us it never really went away...

OK thanks.

I've been working through the tester approves thread while drinking tea - just found a meaningful link to a chains thread - will try harder with Search in future!

New chain time: is there any reason why a KMC Z51 won't work on a 2x5 speed from the late 1980s?

Or is there a more suitable alternative? Ideally available through eBay so I can pay for it (indirectly) with bakelite round pin plugs...

Victorian house by the river in Bridgnorth. Most have caves, mainly used for storage - I had three, but one used to flood a bit when the river was high.

I would imagine tanking compound might prevent lateral damp coming through the wall but not directly prevent condensation, which is likely to when be humid air comes into contact with the coldest surfaces - tanking compound won't significantly change the temperature of the wall, and you might still find a bike at night cools down faster than a wall and for a time is the favoured location for condensation.
What sort of floor is it? Is ground water going to be an issue?
Does the wall have a damp proof course? Or soil etc piled against it above the damp course (possibly on the neighbour's side?)
I should say I'm no expert, but I used to live in a house with a cave, which seemed dry but only because water passed through it, and anything metal seemed permanently wet.
You might do better regarding the wall as security rather than damp- or weather-proofing, and aim for plenty of ventilation...

I'd go for this^ if I didn't already have a generic CR Clarke bench drill.

A 6mm chuck will take full size versions of the tools you're likely to use with a Dremel - wire brushes, grinding wheels, polishing mops, broaching tools, even drill bits! You can still use Dremel tools in it - just need to manipulate the work rather than the tool.

Chassis sides appear to be 22mm thick - potentially drilling both sides at the same time to ensure alignment. Will a Dremel have sufficient reach? Or hold a large enough diameter drill bit?

If this particular project is a one-off, then any cheap saw will probably last long enough.

Bench hook to go with the tenon saw (you could easily make one)
Sanding block (made from an offcut?)
Use of a drill - preferably a pillar drill - for axle holes.
Marking knife to reduce splintering, especially ply edges if cutting by hand.

Hobbycraft tends to be expensive - try eBay for wheels, they're only needed once everything else is assembled and varnished, so there will be plenty of time for delivery.

I'd be making card or paper templates of the ply parts with the grain direction marked, and arrange them with 3mm(ish) allowance for sawing to work out just how big a sheet of ply is needed.

The chassis bed and bumper (pine) sizes don't seem critical - if you're going to use offcuts then altering the design to accommodate slightly different widths / thicknesses should be possible. It's quite likely the original used whatever was to hand at the time, so don't worry about a few mm here and there.

Isolating and draining your outside tap in winter?

I've used this sort of thing twice.

First one worked exactly as described.

Encouraged by this, I bought a second kit, and spent several hours getting wet and annoyed. Even after turning the supply off, cleaning everything, checking for distortion and odd imperial size issues, and using jointing compound around the rubber gasket, it still pissed water everywhere.

In the end I used a pipe cutter to remove the holed section and fitted a compression Tee valve, which worked perfectly first time.

tl;dr 50% failure rate?

Vintage (i.e. proper) cyclemotors if DVLA are demanding dating certificates - the newest component is used to determine the age of the vehicle if you're wanting an age related registration, and all components have to be plausibly the correct period. Very much a niche use.

FWIW, all weather (leather faced) brake blocks seem to work better both wet and dry.

Surely the requirement for pedal and rear reflectors depends on the bike's year of manufacture?

Possibly (according to the Road vehicle Lighting Regulations) even the time of day?

Surely 30/24 is 25% more radius ?

Remarkably similar at first glance! I suspect mine is the more genuine fake...
Encyclopedic knowledge or much time searching?

0.7 mm. Thick enough to stand etching, and much thicker than most of the stamped badges I've handled.

I did quite a bit with Corel Draw and a Gravograph laser before retirement (ex Technology teacher) but it was too long ago to call in any favours, hence the hand crafted approach.

If you can find commercially produced polished brass sheet for engraving, it often has a paper layer on one side to prevent scratching, and a lacquer layer to prevent tarnishing - the lacquer comes off nicely under a laser, and works better as an etch resist than any spray paint I've tried. Admittedly this was resisting ferric chloride in a bubble tank - possibly salt water is less aggressive?

I'd regard that as a decorative feature, and certainly not a substitute for a boundary fence.
I'd also be surprised if bamboo lasted more than a couple of years, whereas a traditional fence panel should be good for at least ten years.

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/288143/ ?

Update on badge bodging:
Several coats of paint have been left to harden before cutting back, and it still looked a bit too bright and shiny. At my age I can't afford to wait for the weather to weather it, so I've subdued it with a couple of coats of matt varnish, followed by a coat of gloss lacquer. I'm hoping that the pumice will give the impression of paint fading in sunshine, and the gloss will look like hours of reverential polishing.

Buy a part that works and is designed for the job?
Where's the fun in that, compared with spending hours trying to cobble something out of an old shoe?

Apologies for the photo - best I can do at this time of night without waking Mrs. E.
Mount is also sandwiched between a pair of washers. Without the strip, one edge just touches, the other has about 1.5mm clearance: with the leather in place, the guard sits more centrally. More washers on the stays - it's starting to sound worryingly like a leather obsession...

I think leather washers are the traditional solution?
I make mine using two different sizes of hole punch, choosing colour and thickness according to which bike and how much thread is available.

Edit - just read your second post re: edges of guards - I'd still suggest leather, held in place with contact adhesive?

My Karcher will run from a water butt or even a bucket on a chair - admittedly at much lower delivery pressure than from a mains supply. The trick seems to be having the bucket higher than the washer and filling the hose etc. by siphoning before switching on - it's not very good at priming by sucking water up from a low level, and air locks cause alarming noises.

Type of flour?
My 'wholemeal' breads tend to be around 50% white flour, otherwise they come out very dense.
(Perhaps better described as 'brown, not really wholemeal')

This:
https://personal.natwest.com/personal/ways-to-bank/branch-banking/branch-closures.html
... might affect your options?

I've previously sent letters, printed on paper, to the address in my cheque book. This seems to still work in spite of RBS's efforts to get me to stand in the street and talk loudly about personal matters into a phone I don't own.