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not much need to rely on the seller. just do a bit of homework on what you need to look out for and draw your own conclusions.

ultimately, just find what you want then check for damage and wear. cracks and dents, more so cracks, are things you need to consider which can make a bike a write off only good for parts. dents are a shame and often won't be a big problem but you'll need to keep an eye on it. for what its worth though, cracks don't turn up that often on bikes for sale without people mentioning it.

then worn out parts are the next thing to worry about, only in so far as if they're completely worn they will need replacement, so just factor that in.

if you're going to pass it to a bike shop to do the work though, just get a new bike, probably wouldn't work out any cheaper unless you do it yourself. in which case it will cost barely anything

spotting thing stuff is pretty easy, its not specialist knowledge.

good thing about secondhand bikes is that you can get a hell of a lot for your money and theres a lot of interesting stuff out there within a modest budget. where as a lot of new stuff isnt that exotic or interesting (IMO) unless you spend loads

Sure. It would be about £40 all in at a guess. If you want to take it, drop me a pm and we can go from there

Yeah sure.

Is this to be posted or collected?

Just out of my parts box, will be cleaned and removed if grease. No scoring marks. 26.8mm

£40 or off to eBay.

Saddle not included

Collect in Brighton or post

Pretty straightforward stuff, 2 pannier bags in good condition and come with the fittings. Not much use.

Also a zefal saddle bag.

Both for £35, I’m in Brighton so collect from there or can post pretty fast if needed.

Just putting up here before eBay this weekend.

What is the seatpost diameter?

what happened to this? just saw it on eBay...

penetrating fluid will only help if its just starting to seize, if its properly stuck it won't touch it

Does it have a front brake and foot retention? Unless you’re only going to use it on a track you’ll need those things over anything else. Especially if you’re a bit new to it all

does it get exposed to UV in any way on a daily basis?

hi

I have this XXL 60cm MASH frame in the pic, it fits but I prefer a L frame which I believe is 55cm.

Looking to buy or swap with my current frame. I'm after the same 2013 black/white/blue frame in 55cm.

let me know if you have anything, open to buying, swapping frame or a complete bike

Yeah that’s hella pro. Nice work

so how do they ride? alpinestars cromega has been on my want list for ages.

There’s one on eBay I saw yesterday. £300 I think

Had to do this stuck seatpost malarkey a couple times lately but it’s been successful without damaging the frame.

The other week I had a stuck stem, drilled a big hole through the middle and sliced some slots in the edges with an electric saw, stopping before it broke through to the steel and chiselled them out with an old screwdriver. Took ages and was a massive pain but got it done. Only thing I would say is if you use an electric saw is that it can hammer the remaining part further down so leave an edge if you can do that doesn’t happen. I cut it flush to the top of the steerer which was a mistake in retrospect.

Yesterday I had a seatpost stuck with about 3” in the frame. 1” diameter post which is 25.4mm.

Used a 25mm drill bit to drill it out. It was stuck hard to the very end, see the pics below for before and after. Had to keep it dead straight so it didn’t cut in to the frame.

This also took ages, about hour and half.
With the stem I drilled a 16mm hole straight through with no issues. With the seatpost it was getting very hot very quickly and heating the drill up very fast. Presumably due to the bigger size. Had to use lots of cutting oil and water on the frame to keep it cool and cut with the drill in a few half second bursts pulling out the drill to get the dwarf out and spray oil in. It got the seat post out and since it was so far extended out of the frame there was about 12” of remaining seat post left to use.

If I was to do again I would wrap a wet towel around the frame to help with drawing the heat out.

Big drill bits can be bought from toolstation for under a tenner and use on a regular drill chuck.

Use a low speed low torque setting as the drill can bind up quite easily. Use lots of oil to help cutting and keeping heat down.

Both of these were pretty much welded in the frame so very much a last resort.

Hope that’s some help.

Drop outs are definitely added and not original. Would have been a road frame. Quite possibly a gas pipe frame. I nearly bought a bike like this and think it might be the same frame. Unless the whole bike is less than the value of parts I would pass.

You should check and rectify any safety aspects on any bike you get anyway, so don’t let the build put you off.

can you post some photos, its hard to understand where the problem is without seeing it (for me at least)

Tried crosstop levers? There might be something suitable out there but I don’t know if anything specific.

When “fixie” bikes were at their peak, there was a stem someone designed with an integrated brake lever. But the whole thing looked like a breeze block.

Would have solved your problem though.

I have a rear fixed/fixed hub built up with a mavic ma2 rim and stainless spokes if you're interested. anodised red flanges

Use the adjustment screws to get the derailleur to sit over the larger cog. Just slacken them both right off then wind them in to dial it in to the right alignment.

The other problem sounds like your cable is too tight. It doesn’t take much. Derailleurs usually rely on tiny adjustments to get it spot on.

The pawls will be stiff for some reason. They usually do that when a bit corroded, tends to happen on bikes left outside.

Nice one you’re going to have more tomatoes than you know what to do with!

I’ve been leaving the lid on but I feel they would benefit from air. What I’ve been doing is giving the bottle a flick when the condensation builds up, so all the water runs down to the soil again, opening it up and blowing in there to give it c02 and clear out the oxygen. They feed off c02 after all so I guess it does them some good

Check out the photo, these were all planted at the same time. The bottle one is significantly larger

thats awesome, must be the good vibes.

if you split them up now before the roots get tangled and hinder any future growth when you try to repot them, they will grow a lot better and faster.

also water them daily, they like soggy soil at this stage. might be why they took a little while to get going.

I've also found if you get a 2ltr water bottle, cut it in half and put potting soil plus a plant, water it, cover it up with the other half of the bottle and it will have its own little green house. doing this it will grow super fast. only just figured this one out but the bottled plants have been growing about 3x more than the others I've grown this year.

is the dc2 yours?