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BB are notorious for getting stuck, leverage is your best bet. get a breaker bar as long as you can manage and give it as much grief as you can without damaging anything.

giving it a good soak in plusgas would be helpful too. you might need to resort to heat if it doesnt budge, then chisels etc when the edge gets too chewed up.

its just an end cap, tap it back in to shape and stop any water or damp getting in to the frame - rusting it from the inside out. thats the worst that will happen

you would have to ride like a beast to get that to fail

if its a bit of a beater you could fill it with chemical metal and then file to shape, paint, look just as good. wouldnt need to put any heat in the frame either and it will set like stone so probably have a bit of strength to it

not looking for anything ultra nice, just black front, preferably gloss black.

chips and cosmetically rough is fine, so long as its structurally good and usable i'm not bothered. open to any colour really but black ideally.

cheap and shitty would be really good too.

where was that out of interest?

being self employed is very advantageous if youre smart about it, if youre a bit of a dafty then you best forget it and stick to being employed by someone else who knows what theyre doing.

paying your own taxes is easy enough with self assessment tax return but a bit stressful when the time comes. even easier if you get a good accountant but bike courier money probably wouldnt warrant it.

you can write a lot of your tax expenditure off on your tools for work - a new bike/scooter for example would come in to this.

ultimately a self employed person will have a bit more agro to deal with in terms of paper work but the money is better. its a good life skill regardless of what you do

just swapped this otp KHE fixie type of thing for my commuter. already not really for me, £150 if anyones interested, probably done about 20miles and about 2 months old so pretty much new.

info - http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/fixie-bikes/khe-rd100-fixie-bike-2015-56cm

if you would like to check it out drop me a pm

no chainwhips but a few firm whacks on the front with a hammer + penetrating fluid where it meets the hub always helps get them off

file/cut down the braze on or fit a spacer.

doubt they will release the money any time soon, i work for the council and know they are in massive shit financially right now, lots of jobs are being deleted and peoples contracts not being reinstated etc (mine included). loads of things are being cut out as the last administration screwed up big time, i wouldnt be surprised if this never happens frankly.

weld it, would be quick and easy. just take it to a car garage or anywhere with a welder, give it to them ultra clean and they could fill it, really common practice in welding.

if youre in brighton i could do this for you

i grew up with it in a tin and its more precise to squirt in where you need it but the aerosol is good for smothering the parts. up to you really

plusgas is better than wd40 so i would invest in some of that.

heat would be the next thing but it might/will damage the paint.

you can drill them out then re-tap the thread.

you can also weld on a nut to the remaining thread and try get a bit more leverage on it.

as it is though, i would give it a few sharp taps with a hammer, plusgas, tap, plusgas, leave over night, more of the same, leave another 12 hours, tap etc then try moving the thread back and forth by gripping the remaining thread with molegrips or pliers and feeding more penetrating fluid in. once you get a tiny bit of movement youre set. go back and forth in tiny amounts and increase in tiny amounts, dont try and get it out in one go as it will shear off.

or braze in new drop outs

sold! hope you like it!

if you try taking that bolt out in particular if its giving you jip, clean it all up so theres no grease on the outside. put it back and maybe it will grip a bit better and tighten easier, otherwise you could grip it with needle nose pliers and that might do the job.

i echo the sentiments of them being shit though...

my point is more that you dont need anything specific oil wise, just keep grease away from the pawls and use any old oil. its not an engine, theres no pressure in a freewheel or massive loads, it shouldnt be an issue oil wise, only thing would be if they start to stick...

you dont really want grease on pawls as it will make them stick. any old engine oil will do the job, doesnt really need specific oil just so long as its quite thin. you just want to keep them lubricated and not sticky

just stick washers in there, its only 3mm either side.

straighten it in a vice or tap it out with a hammer. failing that you could just replace with a normal axle

doesnt sound like a particularly niche build that needs advice etc to be honest, just buy a complete road bike, put flat bars on it, ss kit and some gatorskins.

open to offers on this one, hit me!

personally i would find the right glue to bond it with then weld the seam together.

it wouldnt be as straight forward as that, you would need to do a lot of prep but it would more than likely do the trick. it was bonded to make the thing in the first place. despite what most people think, you can fix most things. ive welded up big bastard cracks in frames and you would never know they were once there. my feelings would be the same for this wheel. that its fixable and once done (if done properly) you wouldnt know any different and it would be structurally sound.

since its the rear it wouldnt be catastrophic, would probably start to snag on brake if youre running one or you may feel its slightly not right if it starts to come apart. front wheels are the danger.

£325 - buying a new car so the money would be handy!

thats ok i wouldnt want my old junk either!