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if you back pedal with a lockring on wouldnt that just unscrew? i got the impression they are just screwed on a normal thread anyways.
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i had a pair, bit of wood and some tapping helped push them out - they were tight. seemed like the best way to do it without scratching them as well.
i would hammer them but put something soft, like wood, inbetween the bats and hammer. or use a copper mallet
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thats the edge of the weld. 110% certain
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thats how theyre done on old raleigh twentys, just a hole in the frame. but then those frames are hulks.
theres a super easy way to thread an internal cable, get an old spoke, bend it over to be a small hook, post the cable through the hole, pick it up at the other end hooking it through with the bent up spoke. takes a few minutes if youre really unlucky, otherwise a few seconds.
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just playing devils advocate here but sodium hydroxide is used to help strip chrome, chrome being chromium, chromium also being used in chromo frames when added to steel.
on a more high end frame like that i wouldnt want to compromise its strength etc
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a frame builder told me to feed oil to it and give it a whack with a mallet everyday when you walk past it and it will eventual free off. if youre prepared to oil it and wallop it all the time that would be the safest way, will just take ages.
there is a guy who extracts seat posts somehow without damaging anything, on a bike like this it may be worth taking to him http://www.theseatpostman.com/
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Got a pic? might be able to weld it back up
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ahh sorry dude, just dug it out and its an XL.
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i have one in a drawer still in the packet i never used, think it is L but not sure. you can have it for what ever it cost me if you like, drop me a pm if interested.
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^^^i agree. most of the time brifters are gummed up with dried out grease which stops them working. blow it out with loads of degreaser and work it lots, they will eventually start to shift nice and sharply. i usually then blow the degreaser out with gt85 and follow up with some aerosol grease. thats the first thing i ever do with these before taking them apart. im yet to have to dismantle any.
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i would ride it. doubt it would cause it to break
check the dimeter of the seat post, if its 27.2 its likely to be 531. its not the case 100% of the time but is a good indication
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i am building up a new front so will have a black rim mavic something or other with radial spokes for sale. only about a year old. has been on my beater but will be for sale once the spokes and hub have turned up and the wheel been built. will be around £40
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22", carbon forks, stuck seat post (carbon too), sprayed in places but not noticable.
£35 takes it!
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alans are not for sale any more but i want the specialized gone! if you can come and take it for £35 i would be happy.
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Price drop! £60 on the 2 alan frames as a pair
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same sort of process as welding a pipe
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thats fixable but you would need to cut a V in the the crack essentially. you would then weld it from the inside out and fill the V in. then just a matter of grinding it back to shape.
pretty easy if you can weld, impossible if you can't.
just find a metal fabricator, they should be able to do this for you
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the guy i bought it from said it was a pursuit frame due to those odd narrow forks.
i dont know though just want shot of it
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no forks unfortunately. the specialized is 22"
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still have this and would like it gone, it's taking up room!
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ok, they're cheap for reason unfortunately but theyre not beyond repair - could make for good bike art or something otherwise. ideally if you wanted to have a cheap pub bike they could be ideal with a bit of effort
the CX one is the worst, it has hairline cracks in the seat tube and top tube. these could be tig welded and i recon that will sort it out - this is something i may do if they dont sell still since i can tig weld and it wouldnt be a problem (if i had a tig welder that is). it also has a campag bottom bracket so you could take that out and still be worth having. £35
the road one needs the seat stays to be put back on the frame, this is just a matter of 2 allen key screws. it needs a brake bridge which i guess you could get away with if riding fixed but should still have something there to keep the strength. the original part is bolted in so you could easily fabricate a part to replace this. it has a hairline crack in the top head tube lug. apparently common and rideable but this would be up to you if you felt safe doing that. i would ride it still. other than that its pretty good. comes with a shimano bottom bracket, looks like a good quality one too. £55
these will need to be collected in Brighton, i can meet people at the station. potentially could send but would rather not just yet. happy to do £80 on the pair.
It has been resprayed in places by the looks of things but has carbon forks and a carbon seat post. seat post stuck but complete. otherwise good and usable. £40
again collect in Brighton
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could you post a pic? so long as its welded properly it would be fine. does the crack go straight through the crank?
thing is you would need to weld up the entire crack, not just the surface for it to be sound.
totally doable though
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shiply.com might be a good place to try
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sound. these pics will give you an idea of whats going on if you havnt seen the workings of a freewheel before. fairly self explanatory and hopefully should help
LFGSS
London Fixed Gear and Single-Speed is a community of fixed gear and single-speed cyclists.
clean it up and sell it on you could get more than £150, should you need to cash it in but i wouldnt personally drop more than £130. tell him £130 or go else where, as you will find something else for that price