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and this brake set up...

receiving decent oats, apparently

Sorry, should have said. His was the road behind London road, in between Aldi and the church

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Get well soon man.

In the mean time, I've done a tricky one... but there are some clues there

It will be cones as said already. Worth sorting asap as it can wreck your hubs if you leave it. Plus it's easy to do

£10!

how about relating your teaching to really common photography - such as using the camera on your mobile. since thats what the majority of people have and primarily use.

I've shown a few people things such as getting horizontal and vertical lines to actually line up, so walls and horizons are not wonky for example. using light that you have to hand to your advantage, or at least to get the most from it.

stuff like that is easy and can show an obvious improvement which is easily understood, it doesn't assume or need technical knowledge and can be transferred to any camera. you could move on from that to more technical things if needed.

I have one of these you can have for £50 if you like. Don't think it ever got used.

https://www.merlincycles.com/bike-tools-workstand-49075.html

Plume mudguard. More info see the website. https://www.plumemudguard.com

It's one of those 'we're so innovative' kick starter type products. It's just a roll up mudguard as far as I'm concerned. It's used but not worn out or anything.

£15 + £3 pp or collect in Brighton.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uja3W-ibifc

Front carrier and bread crate. I just took this off, as seen in the photo below. The crate is strapped on with cable ties and quite secure but obviously you can swap it out for something else if you wanted or just use the carrier.

Easy to fit, just bolts to front of the bars with a clamp and to the axle on the front wheel. Has quite a bit of adjustment to fit.

£15 if you would like it. I can drop off around town if it helps.

I used to do a lot of product shots for stuff I sold on eBay. very easy to set up for small things. I just had a large cardboard box, got a white mount board, curved to stick inside the box as the floor and back wall. cut the side walls out and put white paper over the holes. do the same with the roof of the box.

when shooting you can use 2 flashes shooting through the white paper but I found one flash pointing up at the roof and bouncing down on the subject was best/enough.

I can dig it out if you would like a set up shot.

got results like the one below. didn't need much post editing either.

don't buy in to some bike shop stupid name ball bag grease.

just get some of this, apply with a lolly stick and get with your day. <£3 and it will last forever

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p89691?table=no

£195

any of this float your boat?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpduiNeIc5A

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qnTW7yqtyxk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUKp-uwCbqg

these guys were quite involved with type 0 negative
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3eEldugJbHU

Ok I'll give a list of what I do. Yet to be stuck on one of these.

Find a wall or door frame and sit the wheel up against the wall (as in the pic, ignore its a front wheel obvs) best to have a tyre on and not fully inflated. This gives you grip on the wall and the floor. With the freewheel on you right hand side, have the spanner at about 10 o'clock and push down. Can use your foot as mentioned.

The wall will stop the wheel slipping and you can get loads of torque in there. When you push down you'll likely exclaim, "Jesus that's tight" or something similar out of no where. 9 times out of 10 though it will come in done.

If it doesn't, some sharp taps on the face of the freewheel with a hammer or something solid, and penetrating oil and give it another go.

If it's still not gone, get a breaker bar on it.

And lastly, this always gets it, hammer taps on the end of the spanner or bar. A good sharp wallop will free it off. Usually need a few goes at this but I've never needed to try anything else.

With all these it's best to have it jammed up against a wall.

A vice, as you have requested always works too.

There's a fast train in to London. Job done.

May I ask how you have tried so far?

Screw on freewheels are tight buggers every time but I've always managed to get them off. Either with or without the tool. Always easier with a tool of course.

really digging this at the moment

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PG9-EzQFDfI

They're carbon fibre rim with flat straight pull spokes, forgot to say that. Forgot the price too.

£195

All good to use, decals removed on one side of both wheels. 105 10 speed cassette.

Comes with a couple of spare non drive side spokes for the rear wheel and a park spoke tool to fit. This wheel has very small holes to fit the spokes so you need a "special" over priced tool from sram to get to the spoke nipple. Instead I bought a park 5.5mm spoke tool and shaved the edges down. Works perfectly.

700c clincher and both have skewers.

Can deliver or collect in Brighton.

yeah would be open to that, I've done a refresher course for the motorbike once and considered car soon. did a bit of aim stuff for driving but it was a long while ago.

can you give an example within say the last 10 years of new practice for bikes?

oh yes, motorbike training. and cycling proficiency when I was a nipper.

makes me a right know it all. see plenty of horrendous riding (seems to correlate with hi-viz...) and get this, never had an issue on the road. had a few "would have been bad" situations, but saw it coming a mile off and it didn't come close to happening.

everyone should do it