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I was running Stan's Iron Cross rims for a while, and they were 20.2mm internal bead-to-bead, and ran them with 25mm and 28mm.

The only issue being the rim was flexy and 25mm tyre was so wide it rubbed on the inside of my old mash bolt fork when out of the saddle!

^^^ Needs risers.

Thanks for your help guys, acetone on it's way, as will be some citrus degreaser (need more anyway, brilliant stuff).
Will ask my painter decorator sister about the Hammerite thinners.

^^ & ^^^ I vaguely remember someone mentioning something from a chemists is all. But will give em a go, thanks.

Anyone know what I can use to remove sticky residue left by decal removal and other crap?

^ Out of interest, how much did they weigh, and what was the price?

Tune?

They don't do any in 115mm, unless you know they come up short/long?

Pro vibe carbon sprint Cavendish

Think those were in 105mm 120mm and 135mm.

^ That's bigger than CX cassettes!

On another note, does anyone know of any stems that come in 115mm, or that are supposed to be 110/120mm but actually measure closer to 115mm, in 7-10deg and under 175g?!

I have the Deda EL 115mm and it fits a charm, but is rather overweight, as is the Easton EA50, which is the only other 115mm stem I know of.

Hurts my head just to look at it.

Tyres, cables, saddle, and tape all stay the same, but needs similar gen Campy group as cranks with brifters, job done, and a lovely bike too.

edit: Oh, and pedals.

I don't ride with a club and none of my friends are seriously into cycling, so any information I get on bikes and riding is either from personal experience, mags, related websites, and forums.

I have a little bit of a problem in that I am hyper-mobile (very flexible, sometimes in a bad way) and find it difficult to get into a good position and stay there, often using a position that isn't anywhere near ideal simply because that's what shape I fell into when I got on the bike.

I've recently had a bike fit that really highlighted this, as between each change, my measurements were completely different as I changed position each time I got on and off the bike.

Working out what would be more of a generalised "ideal" position in the first place and consciously sticking to it would seem to make more sense.

What I had assumed at first was a issue with saddle shape (so many saddles...) or fit, seems to be more an issue of the rider!

I had fallen into a position that has my sit bones (Ischial Tuberosities*) right up on the rear of the saddle, which meant my lower-mid spine arched back quite a bit to rotate my pelvis back far enough that it was only my sit bones taking any weight, but this wasn't too comfortable after a while.

Just recently I've changed to a wider saddle and been sitting with my pelvis rotated much further forward so that more of my weight is taken by the bones (Ischiopubic Ramus*) a bit more forwards to the sit bones and positioning them further forward on the saddle, just where the saddles wings widen, which gives me a much straighter spine and so far feels ok, but I'm still taking time to properly get used to it on some longer rides.

So, which position is seen as advantageous for road cycling, pelvis rotated back with a curved lower spine, or tilting the pelvis forward onto a smaller contact patch, with a straighter spine?

Could my discomfort have been due more to bad positioning on the saddle, or of my body?!

• References are taken from this article by Steve Hogg
  

UniCycleUK can also be good for various colours, sizes, and lengths of nipples, odd spoke lengths and gauges, or parts some times harder to find in smaller quantities.

^^ These German sites do white and red DT spokes, which the only other colours DT do, and even with the €6+ shipping fee it's still usually much cheaper (when buying 30+) than buying from any UK supplier - Bike24, HiBike

I might be wrong, but I don't think brass nipples come in anything other than black or silver.

^ Lovely frame, but would love to see it built up properly to see if they do it justice.

^^ Would not want to ride over that bridge with those narrow tyres!

I love those Argonauts but the new style shimano cranks do give me an antirection

Argonauts are lovely.

But the current gen Shimano cranks look tons better then the 7900 and 6700 versions, I actually like them.

Looks awesome Chris, very tidy. So wish I had a normal proportioned body to use normal bike with set back post. sigh

Colour matching pretty, impressively tasteful, and somehow manages to not look like you're trying to hard too.

Check in the back of his book.

How much did they end up costing Thuekr?

Needs risers.

Damn, so many nice bikes, Dave Lloyd, Saracen, Pete Dunn, and Basso are all beauties.
Looks like it's going to be a good summer for cp if nothing else!

^^ You mean ducting tape. And yes, you can put a car together with it. A mate kept half a mini together like that for a while, worked fine. (csb)

^ Big difference between brown packing tape and gaffer tape. Gaffer tape is doing it properly, anything less doesn't cut it. O_O

Either that or here's the email for the official EU (slovakian I think) distributor who will deal direct - anton@novatecwheels.eu

edit: No import tax bonus.

^^ Ebay?