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fuck you computer!!!!!

The Hope and Superstar hubs are roughly the same weight.
The weight loss was on the spokes, which is why I was asking.
Sapim CX-Ray spokes are lighter, stiffer and bladed, so more aerodynamic, although I doubt that'll matter too much!
But, it would affect acceleration, and ease of maintaining speed, although to what extent, I don't know.

The Hope and Superstar hubs are roughly the same weight.
The weight loss was on the spokes, which is why I was asking.
Sapim CX-Ray spokes are lighter, stiffer and bladed, so more aerodynamic, although I doubt that'll matter too much!
But, it would affect acceleration, and ease of maintaining speed, although to what extent, I don't know.

The Hope and Superstar hubs are roughly the same weight.
The weight loss was on the spokes, which is why I was asking.
Sapim CX-Ray spokes are lighter, stiffer and bladed, so more aerodynamic, although I doubt that'll matter too much!
But, it would affect acceleration, and ease of maintaining speed, although to what extent, I don't know.

Indeed you are right Shanghaied, I was looking at PCD for the singlespeed/trials Pro 2 Evo.

Screw it, going for the Hopes.

Shanghaied - I had thought about that, but everyone keeps harping on about weight on the outside of wheel affecting acceleration, blar, blar, blar...

I am building this bike as I want something thats gonna be bloody quick off the lights, so I don't spend half my time getting upto speed.

But, as you say, it is only 83g, and I have the peace of mind knowing its Hope.
I just always obsess!
Wanna be sure I get the best I can for what I use it for.
Just wish I wasn't such a lard arse really as all the nice light weights are for XC whippets weighing half what I do. :P

Thanks for info on PCDs, will check further.

Your words of experience make a lot of sense mechanical_vandal!

But would doing so weaken the spokes significantly?

I could unlace the wheel and re-lace in the same pattern, spoke by spoke, then get LBS to tighten properly.

Unfortunately I do not have the experience to do it myself.

Moser's garage... 0_0 ...

Holy FUCK!

If the head tube needs facing and reaming, chances are the BB shell also needs facing and chasing. All these operations are part of frame preparation, and are usually done together immediately before building.

The benefit is that your headset bearings will be axially aligned with each other and with the steerer. Getting this right contributes about 90% to headset durability, with the remaining 10% being down to headset quality.

Hmmm, good to know. Always looking to expand on cycle mechanical knowledge.

When you talk about getting the fork crown cut, I'm guessing you mean the steerer (the tube that goes from the crown of your forks, inside the frame head tube and is clamped by the stem)?

If you've got a new frame and forks and everything needs to be assembled, unless you have the tools (expensive) and experience to install headsets, it is best left to a bike mechanic.
There they can do any facing that needs doing, install the headset cups, press on the crown race, and cut your fork steerer to size so that you can pre load the tension before tightening stem.
It should only be about a £20 job and that along with bleeding my hydraulics were only jobs I needed LBS for on my build.

As for bottom bracket, long as you've got the tool (not expensive!), its not a hard job to install a new one yourself, although getting old ones out can be bit of a bitch.
Just check you got the right size and threading.

That looks sweet, if very small!

I understand the logic, and maybe I'm just being a bit thick here...

...but people use carbon handle bars with stems that are applying force effectively from only one side(?). So what is the difference? I'd understand it more if it were floating about with loads of space, but surely the margin will be pretty small(?).

A wedge is applying force in a similar way to put something between the floor and say a stiletto, one side has large surface area, the other a very small. And when its carbon fiber you're squeezing, the small stiletto like wedge is more likely to pierce, or crush fibers.

Whereas, a clamp design is a bit like the belt holding your trousers up, there isn't any one spot that has more pressure than another.

The more I look at the Hinault frame, the more I like it.
Even the colours are kinda growing on me!
There's just lots of really nice, tidy, and well thought out bits that make up a really nice frame.
And even though the frame is a little oversized compared to the forks, it still works with the straight legs.
As someone on the Current Projects thread said, it looks very purposeful.

^ T's indeed tasty.

Hmmm, wedge clamp on carbon. NOT a good idea. Puts too much stress on one small area, which being at the backside of the post, could lead to catastrophic failure. You got any photos of the indent on the post?

And yeah, the welds would be tig, but might still be just filed and sanded down to smooth finish before painting without filler (possibly, no expert) like cannondale and klein frames.

Interesting seat post clamp too, it'd be a bugger if it ever broke, but I do like it.
Is it a wedge system like the original thomson stems had?

initial tests [round the block] suggest the situation is rectified by shortening the chain, ride up some hills on the way home for definitive answer.

Yeah, you wanna be able to give it a proper out of the saddle stomp to be sure.

Paint looks pretty good, certainly works well for a nondescript commuter.
I was planning on doing something similar for my On-One Inbred, but then saw the price of their carbon whippet frames (£299) in matt black with no decals and decided I'd be selling the one I got soon!

Apart from the colour, that is a stonking gorgeous frame Jambon!

Been trying to work out which set of light weight wheels to get for an aggressive commuter mtb and its 110kg rider!
Its my weight which is the issue, so do not trust any 24 spoke front wheels, but still want a light weight pair.
I have found a set of wheels, with Sapim CX-Ray spokes and ZTR Crest rims, weighing in at 1520g claimed, that have 32 spoke pattern, and is still within my price range!
Only fly in the ointment is the reports I've found on the rear hub - Superstar Trizoid XC.
So, when/if this hub does die, can I re-use the Sapim CX-Ray spokes to rebuild with a Hope Pro 2 Evo which has the same 58mm PCD?

Or should I just go for the Hope Hoops Pro 2 Evo Straight Pull with ZTR Crest rims that I can get for same sorta price, weighing in at 1603g?

Yes the Hope straight pull hubs are gonna build to a stiff wheel, but so are the Sapim CX-Ray spokes on the other set!
Both use same rim, both would seem to have roughly equal stiffness, the Superstars are lighter while the Hopes are more durable hubs, so I figure that when the Superstar dies, replace with a Hope hub and keep spokes and rim.

Chainring I got was under £20 and helped, but with ten years abuse on yours, I'm not surprised its skipping a bit!

Btw, you do the paint on your frame yourself?

Anyone got any idea what that peculiar brake lever arrangement is?

Very nice nago Eingang.

chain tensioner seems Ok, got it off the ebay but it's had minimum use.
I do have an issue with the chain slipping but I thought it was down to having a stiff link in the chain as it was terrible at first but seems to be improving, maybe this isn't the case?

I tried few things and still kept on getting chain skip and it was a brand new SRAM PC91 chain.
Eventually, after much head scratching, experimenting, and advice from forum members, decided it had something to do with the fact that the chainring I was using was of a stock 3x9 system and so had ramps and pins and stuff to aid shifting, which wasn't helping.
One single FSA DH 42t chainring later and the teeth were higher, or more pronounced on single chainring, which helped stop skipping.
But luckily that gave me perfect chain length so I didn't need the tensioner, cause I had a crappy one off of Superstar, and I don't think it had high enough spring tension.
But I would try removing another link in your chain if you can, as with it in position its in, its only in contact with about 40% of your sprocket, which ain't ideal.
Something else to try as well, some tensioners come with a reversible spring, so that instead of pulling the chain down (away from the sprocket), it pushes it up (wrapping chain around sprocket a bit more).

I'm liking this, very practical. My only change would be to take the inner ring off if you're not using it & put the rack back on.

Agreed on the inner rings. Looks like it'd be a nice ride.
I'm a fan of stripped down MTB commuters and love the GT triple frames of old.

How do you find the chain tensioner Nickel? Took me ages to get it working, couldn't use standard shifting chainring, had to use single specific, and chain kept skipping till in the end found a ring and sprocket combo with tight enough chain so didn't have to use tensioner.

Quick question regarding hubs: I have an old mtb frame that I'm going to build up as a tourer for the summer. It's 130 o.l.d and I was going to use an old stx 7 speed hub, but thinking about it, is there any reason I couldn't use a 130 wide road hub and go 8 speed, and is there any other reasons for going one way or the other (durability / sealing etc.)

I think both should work but just looking for your expert opinions.

Also, some one correct me if I'm wrong, but mtb rear hubs have an O.L.D of 135mm, while road hubs are 130mm.