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Thanks for the tip, will keep my eye out. I assume after the CAAD7 they went to a tapered fork?

Wow epic work, I am in awe of anyone who even attempts PBP let alone finishes!

I realised I never posted a pic of when I changed the forks to carbon. They are a 1" threadless fork which shaved a good 500g of weight or thereabouts.

However I've now decided to go into a different direction and bought a CAAD5 to do a frame swap as I'm after something with a lower front end and less weight.
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/384608/newest/

So onto disassembly, the plan was to do a more or less straight swap of the components onto this frame and then sell off the parts to pay for it. On disassembly this is how clean some of the parts were... nuts!

And the weigh in... part of the reason I went for this frame... Damn light at 1.22kg Not too far off a carbon frame except his frame is nearly 20 years old!. Fork is not that light due to being alloy steerer but can be a future upgrade.

Super happy with this frame as it's in immaculate condition and has a really nice metallic finish which you can just see. To be continued...

So a while back mid May last year I bought a Cannondale CAAD2 Saeco Red Cipollini style bike, it was shod with awesome vintage Zipp 808's and setup for time trial. This was basically my dream bike which I slowly upgraded with 11sp Sram Force 22 and slammed stem and blacked out
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/375975/
Looks like this, frame currently for sale here https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/384554/newest/

However slowly as things go, I learnt more and more about the CAAD frames and realised all the differences between all the generations, this even involved grabbing an older pre-CAAD SR500 from the forum. I realised that I wanted something with a lighter frame and a bit of more racy geometry. The CAAD2 is the slightly more relaxed frame with the CAAD3 being lighter and more racy. The CAAD2 I bought is not exactly heavy, but not super light either at about 1.59kg frame only. The CAAD3 is supposedly lighter by a bit and the later ones generally tend to be lighter

Lo and behold I saw a CAAD5 on eBay for sale, and couldn't resist! The CAAD5s are a bit of a sweet spot, they have a 1-1/8" threadless integrated headset, but still have a standard English threaded BB (before the dreaded press fit stuff). They have the hourglass seat stays and an enlarged downtube particularly around the BB. Also the geometry of this frame is a horizontal top tube with a much shorter head tube to get the front really low.

It was in my size which is 52cm top tube which is not super common. I'm not particularly short at 1.72m but am somewhat between sizes and having had a proper bike fit it was recommended a 52cm top tube would be ideal to get a good fit with saddle setback and normal stem length. So last weekend I travelled all the way up from London to Middlesbrough to pick it up.

This is how it looked on pickup. It was from its original owner, also a smaller guy but quite a bit smaller than me as you can tell by the stem. He was the original owner and the serial No dates it to 2005. Came with a 105 5500 9sp groups with Ultegra cranks and Shimano WH-R550 wheels

So got this bad boy home after spending all day getting up to Middlesbrough and back... took all day more or less but still worth it as this bike was seriously pristine. The red CAAD2 was in near new condition with only slight paint bubbles. This one had almost none of that with only a tiny patch near one of the cable stops. Otherwise the paint was beautiful, on disassembly even the grease in all the parts was still coloured and not blackened! Looked like it had an easy life and the previous owner told me it was kept indoors the whole time and barely used which was why it was being sold.

Also Look 247 pedals, these take the old Delta cleats £10

Wheels have been taken. All other stuff available. Please Dm if interested. Thanks

Items pickup from Elephant and Castle, or central London. Add £5 for postage and £10 postage for the wheels

Ultegra 6500 Cranks 172.5mm 53/39t + ISIS BB. £40
Bearings are great and super smooth, taken off same bike so even the grease on the BB was still coloured and not black.

105 5500 9sp Groupset. Good working order, taken off bike which was from the original owner. Cassette is 12-26t. Now includes 2nd waxed 9sp Chain (New ridden about 30km) SOLD £70

105SC 1050 cranks 165mm. 53/39t. Takes a 113mm BB. I got these from the forum and then hand polished these, but then decided to not use them £15 SOLD

Shimano WH-R550 Wheelset. 10sp free hub 100/130mm spacing. Bearings are good, barely any wear on the brake surface. £50 SOLD

Sad to see this go but I've just upgraded the frame to a CAAD5. Lovely vintage alloy Cannondale frame, beautiful smooth welds. Bought this only last May from its original owner and have ridden it a 1000-2000km or so. Paint is really nice condition with only a few nicks here and there, some very minor bubbles in the paint (can just see it below seat post clamp and rear brake cable stop) no dents. The Columbus fork and 1" threadless FSA headset were only bought brand new last summer so haven't seen much use.

51.5cm ctc top tube
100/130mm spacing
700c wheel size short drop brakes
27.2mm seatpost
BSA bottom bracket
Takes 1" headset

Pickup from Elephant and Castle but can ship at cost. I can throw in a Shimano 600 1" threaded headset if wanted as well. The FSA threadless headset also includes a 1" to 1-1/8" shim for the steerer and bung.

Frame + Steel fork £180
Frame + Steel fork + with Columbus Carbon fork & FSA threadless headset £280
Fork + FSA threadless headset on it's own £120

Here's a pic of it built up

Heya, I'd consider making one for a friend as a favour. Although I don't think I'd offer to make them on a forum as it's a slippery slope, I already have a full time job and enjoy my spare time!

delete

Heya thanks! Yeah I already have a top tube bag that I use occasionally for Bikepacking/touring. The intention is that this toolbox is a permanent fixture on this bike and always occupies this space regardless of bag setup.

Finished pics.

It's not immediately obvious in the pictures but next time I'll probably do the primer fill a bit more as there were some imperfections which showed through. Also I've learnt quite a lot through this process through trial and error, and also found a reasonably cheap and local place which can do the prints. Anyway that's it for now!

So sent this to print and this is straight from the printers. This was printed on its side instead and gave much better curved surfaces. next to no distortion or sagging so looks like it worked really well.

Generally this was the best result so far. Did a test fit and ride. It fits very snugly and doesn't rattle, the Voile strap keeps it very tight to the upper and it fits all the bits comfortably.

So looks like I will keep this one as the final version so I decided to do the final refinishing. Due to the printing process the surface isn't perfectly smooth so needed sanding and filling. Started at 400 then all the way to 800. This was then filled with XTC-3D which is a sort of resin based filler meant for this application. This fills in many of the small bumps and voids from the FDM process which are unavoidable.

Then I sprayed this with a few coats of high-fill primer. Followed by 3 coats of enamel matt black.

The upper piece was redesigned and thickened to allow for sufficient material around the hole made for the Voile strap, this would cause the lower part to sit proud off the downtube giving it a bit of a shadow gap effect.

One thing I did discover when mounting this which threw off the whole thing, had nothing to do with the design or production. Basically the bottle cage bolts on the downtube are off centre! By about 3-5mm which causes the whole thing to sit wonky... It's something like this in the photo

So onto version 3...
The whole thing got redesigned with the following main objectives

1. Model the actual accessories I want to carry, not sure why I didn't do this before as this was a bit of an oversight
   
2. Allow the upper piece to adjust for the off-centre holes
   
3. Make the attachment system even more robust, the V2 one worked ok, but wasn't as secure as I would like
   
   
   

First things first I revised the attachment system to make it even more simple and robust, so the upper and lower would be bound together with a Voile strap. The tension of the strap just compresses the two together which should stop any rattling and make it very robust. The upper and lower just need to get a reasonably snug alignment and does not rely on any small lips or nibs to stay put.


The whole thing was resized to match the accessories which I modelled, and likewise I added a support in the middle to prevent distortion and add strength/stiffness to the lower structure, add support to the upper. Thickness of the shell was upped to about 4mm.

Points taken from @kiskubai and @Jonny69. It's been a while since I have 3D printed and I usually had one of the grads actually sort out the details of printing itself. In any case as I'm farming out the printing I have less control over the actual process. Would be fun to have my own 3D printer! but can't justify the cost or the space... My work probably will have one soon though...

Good point about the direction of printing, the first two versions appeared like the printed it vertically rather than flat. Version 3 was printed horizontally which I'll show later

There really isn't much space inside the frame as this already has the brake line, dynamo wiring, brake cables etc, also the little hatch at the BB is absolutely tiny...

Yeah so lessons learnt from version 1, version 2 came out a lot better. The rubber attachment system worked a lot better much like @kiskubai suggested I ditched trying to print everything and reverted to something simpler and using rubber to hold it on. The smaller unsupported area and additional ribbing helped to minimise any distortion, this one printed quite flat. However in the process of making it smaller, I realised only after that it was too small to fit the inner tube I needed (its a 700c x 32c which is not available in TPU or lightweight butyl...)

Undibs on tyres as I’m after 23mm. Thanks glws!

dibs on the GP4000

So onwards with Version 2. This time I revised the attachment system as this was a complete fail. One of my first observations and lessons learnt from the first one was that the FDM print was actually quite crude and not that accurate, I've done some in the past with PLA but that was a long time ago. In any case the conclusion was that I should allow for large tolerances and make it a bit more simple. Thus I decided to use a simple silicone strap at the back with a large knob type thing to keep it secure and tightly fastened together.

Secondly I made it a bit smaller and I also added some reinforcement ribs to prevent distortion and sagging from the print. If you imagine how FDM works, it's like a tube of toothpaste being squirted out layer by layer and even with some supporting structure which is removed at the end, you have to limit your lengths of unsupported material otherwise you will get this.

I work as an architect so use a lot of 3D modelling software, also I have some experience in 3D printing from making models so I decided to model my own and give it a crack. I don't have my own printer so I would have to outsource this. However all the modelling I could do on my own.

First was deciding what I wanted it to do. Main goal was to have something a bit more integrated looking and able to carry the following

1. Spare tube (700x 32mm Butyl)
   
2. Multitool + Levers
   
3. Spare derailleur hanger
   
4. Patch kit + Tubeless plugs
   
5. Latex gloves and other sundries
   
   

Secondly, what was the design and build process. Design I would do using Rhino3D which I am very familiar with, printing process/material would likely be ABS plastic with FDM (Fused Deposit Modelling) which is reasonably cheap and widely available.

So to begin my initial step was to measure the downtube and mounting holes, this is not easy as the downtube on this bike is ovalised and transitions between two shapes along its length, so I basically cut out some cardboard and took some profiles every few cm. Sorry for the weird scan, but my scanner went a bit funny and did doubles.

This was traced into 2D and then lofted between the profiles to create a model of the downtube. You can see here with the profiles in blue and the loft/extrusion in red. It transitions from a round to a squashed/elliptical profile along its length

Next was version 1 of the toolbox. This was initially modelled so it would fit rather snug to the downtube and not obstruct the front wheel w/ mudguard. The idea is that there would be an upper piece bolted to the bike frame and the lower piece with click onto it with some bendable tabs at the back and a hooked bit at the front

I sent this to print with a provider, cost around £30 and took a week or two. However this was a bit of a fail, I had assumed it would take me at least 2 tries to get it right. I overestimated the flexibility of ABS and the back tabs snapped the first time around, Also the upper piece did not fit the frame properly because the BB stuck out too much. Also the print itself had too much faceting, this was due to my own mistake of not meshing it with enough triangles in the 3D modelling phase. Lastly there was long pieces of unsupported "wall" so the sides of the box were curved inwards from distortion, one of the limitations of this kind of 3D printing... So back to the drawing board.

So a few years ago I bought a J.Guillem Atalaya, this is a gravel bike which I've setup as a dual wheel set gravel/modern rando bike. The main purpose of this bike was to build something versatile, meant for long distance road touring/rando but still reasonably quick. So I built a pair of WR 65mm Light Bicycle carbon rims paired with DT 350 rear and a SON 28 dynamo front wheel with CX-Rays, 32mm GP5000 TR on top of these. The rims are super wide and fit flush with the inflated tyres which gives it a nice aero profile and low rolling resistance but still plush.

The frame has 3x bottle mounts with one on the downtube which I stuck a storage bottle on for when I used my saddle bag, this was to store spares, tube, tools etc. This generally worked fine, but not the most elegant and it was a bit awkward taking things in and out of it.

I saw this Orbea Orca Aero and was really inspired to make my own version of this for my bike or something similar...

Yeah I've read that it can do 29x2.35 at the back, the fork is actually a 29" model as it fits both 27.5+ and 29".

See here at the end of the thread
https://www.mtbr.com/threads/scott-spark-710-plus-27-5-or-any-plus-with-29er-wheels-anyone-have-any-feedback.1043347/