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Really! They are only very small goldfish. Shit the bed.

I maybe naively thought that enough hiding places would ensure everyone lived in harmony

You’re describing our situation from a few months ago! We acquired a small pond and it was pretty grim. Daughter wanted some fish, which we were supportive of as animal care seems to help her develop empathy.

A couple of weeks back I drained the pond, counted nearly 200 newts and a few frogs as we scooped all the debris out!!

We’ve since refilled the pond, put lots of oxygenating plants in there, bought a pump, some fish and the redistributed the 200 newts and the water has been pretty clear since.

We do get quite a lot of algae but I think it’s due to direct sunlight but I tend to scoop the surface level stuff off when I see it.

Couple of points:

• Get a pump for your size pond
  
• Don’t put plants / animals etc straight into tap/hose water as the chlorine can be harmful - you can get a neutralising agent or wait 24 hours
  
• check out plants for different depths as these create great safety spots for fish/frogs/newts
  
• try not to remove all the sludge, I read that it’s important to leave some (can’t remember why!)
  
• It’s actually lovely watching fish and newts dart about a pond!
  

Forbo do a desktop lino product which seems pretty straightforward to use. Glue and trim. Could get some bog standard MDF/Ply and cover?

Has anyone used a thermal camera for iphones before? I saw Charlie DIYte using one and now I can't find it anywhere. Not too many places you can hire/borrow them from around me...

I'm sold. So much less hassle. A quick splosh of Zinnser Drywall Pro and its ready to paint.

My DIY box room office is steadily taking shape. I ended up going full golf club and putting marine ply down to replace the floor boards as I managed to get 3 sheets fairly cheap. The only non DIY has been putting the skylight in and cutting the birch ply for the desk and shelves.

I was quite surprised after re-boarding with gyproc how much easier it was to tape and skim the joints rather than get a plasterer in. Wouldn't really notice the difference. Left to finish is flooring, sorting all the cables, finishing on the skylight, skirting and replace the door into the eaves.

Send the photo to Mark that I linked you on the Locohome chat. He’ll probably want to come out, although he might not stretch as far as Southside (if I’m recalling where you stay)

Covering all the coping stones with lead seems a little overkill. If the issue is the joints on the coping stones would your neighbours potentially have ingress as well? Might be worth a check.

This was something I considered actually. I don’t have the same floor boards as these are the OG 1930s boards but I’m sure I could fashion something together from ripped reclaimed pine floor boards.

I’m in the same camp though , it does have the possibility of looking shit 😂. I tried to find something similar for inspo and couldn’t find anything to help

I think I’m edging more towards tiles the more I stare at it. I just can’t resolve how much I’ll obsess over the 2/3 of tile at the base. I’m sure I’ll forget after a few weeks…

Let’s not focus on Chris’s mirror situation. We need to be discussing tiled bath panel or non tiled / potential wood bath panel…

I’m only doing it this way as I’m lazy and didn’t want to move the existing pipework for anything. I’m retaining the exact layout of the bathroom we inherited.

Will have one inset to the left, you can just make out the hole. Will have a wood trim and inset a couple of inches with some glo balls on either side.

Work has progressed at a snails pace on the bathroom. I now need help. Do I tile the bath panel? Or do I do something with wood (stained marine ply to match the sink unit)?

I'm starting to feel that the not so "off-white / mostly grey" tiles might be a little too much on wall and panel and I do like some wood in the bathroom (fnar fnar).

Thoughts? It will also annoy me that I can't start from a full tile from the bottom as I wanted to start at full tile around the bath edge. So I'll have 2/3 of a tile as the bottom of the panel and this will be most visible.

100% it’s not enforceable. If you need a recommendation for a conveyancer in the future, and Glasgow based, I’ll give you the details for who we’ve used the past 3 sales. She’s great.

Good luck!

It’s a legal requirement to have interlinked fire alarms in a house you own.

That said, how this is enforced through a sale or purchase isn’t very clear. From my experience, when we sold we had to have everything done to the current legal standards because we’d done work in the house and BC were involved. The house we bought had 3 battery powered smoke alarms which don’t meet the legal standards and it never came up as they had done no work in the past 20 years (our solicitor asked and we just said we would bring the property up to legal standard)

I think it depends on what you’re selling and what you’re buying. I guess you could ask a seller to bring a place up to legal standard though…

Not in London but I can recommend someone we’ve used in Glasgow.

Or could you flip the shower so it’s along the other wall, toilet opposite the window with small towel rad above and sink under window?

Do you need such a big shower? You could use half that space, sink against the wall where long shower would have been, toilet flat against the wall and a low/long towel rad under the window

natural bed company are great. really good workmanship. can't vouch for this sofa bed but we have one of their beds and love it.

@chrisbmx116 can you remind me how/what you made your office desk with? I recall it was black, what is faced ply or something else?

I would 100% cut a section of plasterboard out of the ceiling close to the wall and above the window and see what's going on. It would likely be the first thing a builder would want to do to understand how/where the water is coming in from.

Is the wet light also one in the bathroom?

32mm tends to be for sink/basins and 44mm bath waste.

Is the issue you cannot find a 32mm basin waste in copper?

Cost is the biggest factor and also that we’re thinking of getting cladding/ render after getting cavity wall insulation to ensure we don’t have any ingress issues.

It’s a 1930s building bungalow so the bricks are extremely bland so it’s not like it’s hiding a gem like yours.

Defo pebbledash owner envy here…

I can’t really get ours removed, but am considering some sort of render after we get cavity wall insulation to ensure we are as water tight as possible.

Anyone got any ideas on how to seal tiny pin holes in a radiator? Its polished steel and the solder I have tried to use just drops off.

It will likely be set into mortar. They can have quite a long and pointy shaft (fnar fnar) that gets pushed into mortar and provides the strength to hold a cast iron gate. You'll need to chisel it out but it would take an age. Can you get an angle grinder and cut it off and attached a new gate hanger over the top which is just drilled and bolted?