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Hi,
There's quite a bit of information about Bates and the numbering system in here.http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/builders/bates4.html
There's a 17887 built in 1958 and your frame number is very close to that so it might have been built 1958/59 I guess.
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Hi everyone,
This is a very early example of a Paris Tour de France frameset. Circa 1946.
The frame has been restored by Argos over 3 years ago and has never been built up since.
The colour is British Racing green plain enamel (looks darker in some of the the pictures), with off white panels on seat tube and head tube and gold lining.
Lacquered over transfers apart from the down tube one that has been painted in off white to match head tube and seat tube, then lacquered over.Details and measurements:
Frame and forks number 1828
Seat tube 60 cm centre to top of top tube and 62.5cm centre to the very top of seat tube.
Top tube 57.5cm from the centre at the very top of seat tube to centre of head tube.
Rear spacing 112mm
Front spacing 94mm
Seatpost diameter 26.8mm
The BB shell is not threaded but there is a British threaded BB sleeve fitted.The frames has braze on pump pegs, round mudguard eyes on forks and seat stays, reflector eyelet, lamp bracket on fork blade, reinforcing lugs to brake bridge.
Twin plate crown, oval (D shape) to round.
Bilaminate lugs.
Reynolds 531 tubing. Oversized (1 1/8") top tube, seat tube and down tube.
Stallard? ends.There is a little chip from storage at the top of the head tube and little mark from storage on the fork crown. I will include a little pot of matching paint I got from Argos that can be used to touch this up.
The top tube is a mm off it so but angles and condition have been checked by Argos prior to painting and there are no dents/cracks/creases or dings.
Theres is a tiny bit of bubbling on the head tube transfer but hardly noticeable.
There might be the tiny odd mark under the paint in some places (around the BB shell, brake bridge lugs).
Price: £450 The paintwork + transfers alone were £335 (I still have got the receipt if needed).
Any questions please ask. i can send more pictures if needed.
Collection/viewings from Southend are welcome or I might be able to drop it in London (around Liverpool Street) on a Saturday/Sunday morning.
I can also post if postage and Paypal fees are covered.
Thanks,
Alex













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Brown Charge saddle here
http://www.lfgss.com/conversations/257985/#comment11933657 -
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I'm assuming that your 27mm seatpost is second hand which means that might no longer be 27mm but less, as over the years the alloy might have worn. And that doesn't fit without applying force.
I'm not an engineer but to get a shaft of certain diameter into a tube of the same diameter might be pretty difficult unless is very precise or lubed extremely well.
So a 26.8mm on a 27mm tube doesn't sound that much. You might need those 2mm to be able to get it in? -
As far as I know Aelle frames take 26.8mm seatposts.
I had a Dancelli in Aelle and it was 26.8mm.
Whatever it is if you have to apply too much force it is not the right seatpost diameter.
And you shouldn't have to open the seat cluster to fit a seatpost unless it has been pinched by tightened the seatbolt without a seatpost on. -
I meant to try to push in the cap slightly over the taped bars to see if it might give a bit and stay there.
Tape over the cap will have to be done very well for it to not look untidy.
If the cap fits perfectly without the tape, and the cap it is not too translucent when placed on the bare bars, you could just wrap up just over where the cap will cover then.
But it should go in with a little push/twist in following the direction of how the tape has been wrap around.
Do not blame me if the cap splits in the process though :) -
That looks very tidy.
If the diameter of the bars is too big for the plastic cap you might have to think about bar end plugs. I've done this because I do not really like the look of the Benotto ones.
Before you cut any excess try to see if you can push it and twist like screwing it in. Once in (if) you can cut the excess straight right against the end of the bars, and put a little cellotape to keep the tape in place and put the cap back.
Good luck. -
Yes, cut a piece and place it over the brake clamp. Loosen up the brake slightly and go a little under as it might shrink a bit once tightened.
I've tried to melt it once but to stick it I had to give it quite a bit of heat which left it black and untidy.
To finish it off go round a few times with a bit of cellotape and them place the caps over. -
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If you were thinking of getting the transfers for the restoration from H Lloyd Cycles (http://www.hlloydcycles.com/index.htm) you'll notice that Bates ones can only be ordered from this gentleman:
michael (at) bridgeland.freeuk.com
He might be able to be more accurate if you provide him with the frame number.