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Hi everyone,
Bit of a long shot. Looking for a sealed bearings MKS left pedal axle/spindle to replace the one I've got as the allen bolt sheared and just couldn't drill it out.
Or if you know where to get a replacement that would work I would consider that.
The ones I found are for loose bearings.Thanks
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Thanks for your input.
I had a look earlier at Sheldon's but found the other way round of 7 speed cassettes on 9 speed bodies compatibility.
I'll have a look around and see what the best functional and financial options are.
Can get a 7 speed cassette like the one in the pic for a tenner and will need a new rear mech to have enough wrap.
Or get a 9 or 10 speed one (removing a cog), new rear mech, chain and shifter.
Casettes and rear mech work about the same.
Slightly more expensive because of the chain and shifter but nicer I guess as I have no indexed setup now. -
Hi everyone,
I have always been building with screw on freewheels or fixed but I have a bike with a cassette that I have been using.
The cassette is a 7 speed Shimano (28T biggest cog), 135mm rear spacing, 1 x7 setup. Hub is Shimano FH-RM30
I would like a wider range of gears, like 34 or 36T max cog cassette. There are very few 7 speed cassettes available.
Couple of questions:
Can I fit an 8 or 9 speed cassette on this body? Thinking on body/cassette width and UG/HG.
Would I need a spacer behind the cassette?
I guess I can use a 9 speed rear mech, is this correct? It's just that they are not much more expensive and they look nicer than 8 speed ones.Any help appreciated.
Cheers
Alex -
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I got one myself to do a similar thing but abandoned it due to lack of time but the idea was pretty similar.
I have still got it and will start it at some point.
my idea was to replace all the steel parts for alloy. Chainset, hubs and rims, stem, bars and seatpost.
I had in mind to fit a rear mech and 3 speed block.If you are going to use it for commuting purposes I would keep the original parts in case you want to bring it back to original spec sometime in the future but fitting some more practical components.
1) I would personally try everything as you would like it first to make sure things fit as it should and repaint eventually. Also not sure how to take the suspension mechanism of the forks apart for repainting.
2) SJS Cycles have a selection of 16" rims. Most 28 holes but 32 & 36 holes also.
4) I cannot remember exactly but I think the drop of the Shimano brakes wasn't enough so I had to get Tektro R559 nutted version. Also there was something with the adjuster that was getting in the way of the end of the seat tube if I remember correctly.
6) I got a Nitto Technomic long quill and I was either going to use Randonneur bars or compact ones plus aero levers.If you would like to do it on a budget but functional, a Shimano 600 chainset with only the 52T chainring works well paired with a sealed bottom bracket.
Anyway, I will follow this to get some tips for mine.
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Thanks for the picture but not what I'm looking for. More like the picture attached.
I've asked if it was a road or a touring bike because they are not the same.
Road bike=clearance generally for up to 25mm tyres, no eyelets for racks, tighter geometry, etc.
Touring bike= clearance for wider tyres, eyelets for racks, relaxed geometry (ie longer chainstays, etc).Thanks anyway.
Thanks for the link, I have got a C Record front mech that I could use but I am looking for a 70's/80's one to match the rest of the components I have got. Thanks anyway.