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No, always Light Bicycle. This purchase was a very specific one based on the fact it's a deep, solid trispoke (they only do a shallower one) and will have limited use (time trialling).
I wouldn't buy a wheel set for everyday abuse unless convinced by some research via Peak Torque maybe. Even then, LB haven't skipped a beat so I CBA to take the risk on something else tbh.
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Ah yeah the usual childish "you are wrong hippy is right" stance, I shouldn't have indulged but I'll finish.
Your opinion that a race tyre with no puncture protection is fine for all racing including racing long time trials on crap rides is your own; I am correct in not blaming the tyre but the user choice. Which you then weirdly agreed with. I maintain the watt saving at all costs when riding in on crap roads doesn't make sense.
In any case, I chose the STR over the TT today as I needed to be able to ride multiple non-race journeys prior to the start line. The 3w penalty I was confident wouldn't make a difference, didn't. And fwiw, I was racing for the win, I couldn't care less about my time on the course.
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Getting my bike ready last night, I had the option of either GP 5000STR or the TT version. BRR reckons it's a 3w total penalty for some puncture protection and, as I'm racing away tomorrow and don't have the luxury of spare wheels etc it was a no-brainer.
I've spoken to people who've travelled crazy distances to race on Corsa Speeds or Veloflex and not finish their races...it seems a bit mad unless you're guaranteed perfect surfaces and/or inserts to at least get the line.
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It's confusing.... basically the original 12 spd AXS levers will work but not the newer ones. So if you are buying new Force which I assumed you were then they won't shift 11spd derailleurs, but the old D1 will.