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Mine came to an unexpected end yesterday. Started feeling a bit noodly on the way to work on Friday and there was a bit of a click coming from the headset area. The click got worse on the way in on Monday, so I brought it in to have a closer look before going home. Rocking it back and forth on the brake with a colleague, we watched this crack suddenly open up:

Eep!

Fack me.

Am I missing something? Where de NJS at?

Builders usually put those holes in the lugs so that they can see that the braze has completely flowed under the lug. On cheaper bikes they don't bother, so you can infer something about the quality of the build by the fact that they are there. But yeah, the three in a row like that is probably a signature style by a particular builder, so hopefully someone will recognise it.

A pair of ally B123s and a 100mm Jag now hanging in my loft. I think this is what's known as 'IT HAS BEGUN'. I blame this forum.

Is that a replacement HED decal? If so, where did you get it from?

Completely bonkers looking, and in a totally perfect way. Nice one.

^ Yeah it looks wicked. Loving your corner of the bike shed too.

Could be a guy I work with, he's got a bike like that. Seen him a couple of times going out the gates and gave him a rep for running it fixed. There's a few around here that I see around and about: there's an older bloke who rides a dark green cheapo factory SS, me on my gold Russian bike and there's a bloke who retired from here a while back who's got a new silver Bob Jackson usually on the high street. Used to be a younger lad on really vivid metallic blue track bike that I saw a few times, really tiny thing.

Damn, that looks TIGHT.

Not much love for the geared Jack Bobsons round these parts! Here's mine - had it for years. Apparently a late 70s TT frame but that's all I know about it.

I originally ran it as a fixie with magic ratio which was conveniently 48/16:

I kept it like that for years but the gearing was limiting when my commute changed. Stuck these drop bars on it at some point and that HORRIBLE stem:

More recently put it back to a geared bike. I initially built it up as a low-rent TT bike with 1990s style components. That's actually a HED under the Corima decals, modified Profile copy TT bars, 6-speed Shimano SIS with Biopace:

By no means a serious build but I could go fast on it. Was just about to use it in anger and managed to shit my knee earlier this year so the aero stuff has come off and it's replaced my geared commuter. Not got a pic but it's back on spoked wheels, layback post, Unicantor saddle and a less ridiculous stem.

I like that red tape. It might lose something if you change it to white!

It's a pair of 32/40 spoke 27" rims and a front hub I'm after, otherwise it's pretty much there for what I'm building. There's a pic at the bottom of page 10 on the pre-50s thread: https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/238801/?offset=225

That must be a geet big vice! I don't think we've got one here that opens enough to do a headset.

Love that RRA chainring. Not seen one like that before.

I'm after a few early parts at the moment too, for my Parkes, so we might be in a three-way bidding war on a few things :D

I had a go at the headset after work this evening. These are the two cups, you can see where I centre punched them to raise the surface up but it wasn't tight enough and worked itself loose again.

I dressed the punch marks back down with a file and cut some strips of 0.1mm shim. These cups are 30.2mm and I'd measured the head tube at 30.4mm. Conveniently the shim we had at work was already 10mm wide and I gave it a curl to help it stay in place.

Home made headset press out of a bit of M8 studding and some offcuts of construction kit stuff.

Sometimes I'll tap a headset in, but with the shim in there as well it needed to be dead square to hold it all together. I used plenty of grease as well. Amazingly, it went straight in and didn't crease the shim up.

I don't get to try it out properly until later in the week, but I can't see why this won't work. With the centre punching, the top cup had worked so loose that I could pull it out by hand. Now it's a good press fit and there's nowhere for it to go, so hopefully it won't shift.

So there we go. Stronglight A9 because it's the right stack height, swap the crown race for a 27.0mm one, re-tap the top race to 26x1mm and re-use the existing lock nut, 0.1mm shim round the cups when you press them in.

Those Spengles have turned the bike from something that looked like it was missing something to something that looks WILD!!! Looks AMAZING!

That's a gorgeous colour! Not sure I'm sold on the white chain though dude.

Lol, you won't be able to use the truss pattern with cf unless it's just for show, the material doesn't work like that. What about offering both as an option: your trussed Ti rear and a smooth monocoque carbon option?

That was quick! Did you do the repaint or did you get somewhere to do it for you?

Decals look great.

^ I wondered why they chose a laser cut rear end over a composite swing arm, which could be made lighter and stiffer.

But it does look cool - no denying that!

I've got a couple of mid-40s issues if anyone wants to do swapsies?

I've got two at the moment, a 1938 BSA Sports which lives at work and a 1937 Parkes Lightweight that I'm building.

The BSA has early 1950s Resilion high flange hubs built into 26 x 1-3/8" rims and what I think are its original Lauterwasser bars. 48/16 fixed gear:

The Parkes is work in progress, I've got most of what I need but it's just mocked up here with my spare track wheels and some spare bars. It'll be built up with mainly 50s components:

Maybe I misunderstood what Perd meant then. I read it as they'd forced in the left-threaded cup, since it's got a right-handed thread all the way through this bottom bracket, and now it's stuck in there. But I'm not sure how they'd actually manage that without a LOT of grief!

YES! Mental.