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I applied it first to forks and main tubes with a brush, covered in cling film and then came back 30 minutes later to try and rub/sand off. Not much joy, got about 2% of the paint off. So I thought I'd try sanding. This revealed the original decals in a cool blue sparkle colour.

Unfortunately it also revealed a crack. I thought this was just surface rust originally when I bought the bike. But it goes right through the chainstay. It's about 10mm long.

Toothbrush bristles go through it, so it's definitely cracked the whole way through the tube. It's the location where the tyre on the old build must have rubbed, to removing paint and exposing wearing down the steel. Then I guess time and oxygen did the rest.

Anyone here know if this is repairable? I've never really seen spot repairs on tubes so I suppose it would need a new chainstay. Is that likely to be £££?
Edit: Looks like Winston Vaz charges £100 to fit a 631 chainstay. Not horrific, but not peanuts either.

Crazy off-piste idea: I could strip paint, lightly sand that section of chainstay and then wrap with a ribbon of carbon weave soaked in epoxy. I've repaired carbon frames that way. Is that a stupid idea on steel?

I've also asked on Current Projects chat and miscellany.

Tried to strip paint today using Starchem Synstrip. Goodbye to the remaining paint!

I'd managed to salvage the 653 fork decals for the new paint job, but not the frame decal.

Final consideration is ISO vs JIS taper, but unless it's a Campagnolo chainset then it's highly likely to be JIS (Shimano use this standard).

Should be fine.

You could check spindle protrusion on each side, i.e. how far outboard from the frame's BB shell the current BB spindle extends. If it's symmetrical then go ahead and buy a symmetrical BB. If not then go down an internet rabbit hole looking for the assymmetrical one.

Is it a bad groupset?

Strength testing might need to be destructive in order to find the maximum force the spider can handle.

Or non-destructively you could make a rig and load it with maximum conceivable force plus a safety factor. Then if it survives it survives and you know it's good.

Also what front rack is that?

Inner tube plus rucksack buckle! Amazing hack. I must try it. Gonna scour the house for old rucksacks.

Seems like a sensible plan. Can't be leaving carbon around and about.

I have an all silver wheelset which could be perfect. Bitex hubs with Campagnolo freehub, DCR Flirt 30mm rims (20/24h), Sapim D-Light spokes, everything silver colour. Unridden! I'll sell them for £280 which is what I spent in parts. Let me know if they are what you need.

You'd think so wouldn't you!

You could try a bodge using a ~1.5mm BB/cassette spacer on the DS cup?

Cool paint! Which groupset and wheels are you thinking of? And are you going for black parts or silver parts mostly?

A ride up Alpe d'Huez! Nice going!

Not a shred of aluminium left! Nor much paint to speak of. But I'll be repainting... I'll put a link here to the project thread once I start it.

That only took what... three months? It was about two weeks once I started with the caustic. At some point I learned that you can just put a crap load of caustic in the ice cream tub and leave it for two days, then change the solution out, repeat, voila. Low faff, like watering a hazardous pot plant.

Drum roll please...

@MCamb and @jj72 the plot thickens. Did dia compe make a threaded SS version you reckon?

I was thinking maybe Airlite hubs but then looked closer and you can see they are modern wheels with Velocity rim decals. The hubs do look just like the Ene Ciclo.

After some shifters for my tandem, as I will convert soon to drop bars.

• 9 speed
  
• for triple front mech
  
• medium/good condition or better
  
  

Hit me up!

Adidas have a pair of 10.5 Velosamba back in stock. One pair. Probably a return.

https://www.adidas.co.uk/the-velosamba-cycling-shoes/FW4459.html

Please tell me that wood screw is not involved.

NDS looking nice and clear:

DS bearing still hanging on by a small quantity of alu. You can see through to the white piece of brick behind though:

Alas! DS bearing still present. But the solution is still fizzing along steadily. I'll wait until I've actually clocked off work and then I'll prepare another nice strong caustic bath. I was using a 2kg protein tub to store spent caustic solution and it's well over half full now.

It feels like a pot plant that I go and water every day.

hahaaaaa lemme go check in the garden...

I've been bumping this along for just over a week now. Poor frame. As of yesterday afternoon there was still just enough DS alu to hold the sealed bearing in situ. And of course that was the last of my caustic soda. So off I went to Homebase for another tub. I gave it a good top up dose so fingers crossed I go now and find it clean as a whistle....

Second dibs on the Sora shifters if you will split them from the derailleurs.

@snottyotter You utter mentalist.

I don't think you'd add much in the overall bike experience posting a link to that POS !

Whoa now. No need for that - you're degrading my overall bike experience.