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I would normally use contact adhesive for such applications. Contact adhesive comes in spray cans or in pour/scrape on tins. The forbo website advises using contact adhesive for curved surfaces so its fine to use with the product. I'm guessing that they recommend wood glue because its more forgiving, although I would have reservations doing it that way with out a vacum clamp.

I've linked to this in the past and its for melamine, but the same principles apply to a product like this, extra care would have to be taken as the linoleum will be more flexible.

https://youtu.be/hUvTY6bFhSE

If you are replacing like with like then there is no requirement to fit a fire door unless building control are involved.

It is not uncommon for someone who is renovating/extending their house to fit fire doors for sign off by the inspector. To then replace them after work has been done as there is much more choice in terms of appearance available for non-fire doors.

In terms of cost it's a question of how long is a bit of string as it a large scale. The door is the main cost and unless you are going for solid hardwood the liner and architrave should be reasonable. Look at Howdens for lower end stuff and I can tell you how much it would cost me (to give you an idea). Todd doors is a good starting point for the middle of the line stuff there are lots of other online options.

Not a dig at you. More frustration at how supply lines for such things work out. Usual supplier runs out - dont bother looking for an alternative and use the gap in supply to massively increase you margin

Does a mid-noughties astra estate count as an expensive car?

There is, apparently, a single manufacturer in Germany that supplies all of the solid core blanks in the UK

Calling bullshit on that I get all of my fire doors and door blanks direct from a UK based manufacturer who will do both multi-laminate and particle board cores.
Lead time is ~ 3 weeks if you pay a 20% premium on usual prices.

Let the blade come up to speed and the let the blade do the cutting - don't force it forward. Sometimes the teeth can dull on one side which will always lead to to blade wondering and not cutting true.

If you want to get spendy these work well with guide rails and make getting a perfectly square cut easy. It may be slightly excessive for your average DIYer though.

As @TW says, or just call the non emergency number and ask for advice. The police are used to things like this.

When doing their loft conversion my neighbour found a fully functioning ww2 era mp40 submachine gun, complete with a couple of hundred rounds of live ammunition hidden in the eaves. The previous owner was a retired austrian policeman, had passed away in the house so his relatives had just cleared it and sold it. The police didn't really care about the circumstances of how it got there. They were more concerned that a firearms officer ensured the gun was safe before it was moved so that there wouldn't be an accidental discharge while it was being taken away.

I use wood blades to cut aluminium all the time. The teeth on a wood blade are made from tungsten carbide which is much harder than ALU (I think that's what the twin slot tracks are made from) it's not ideal and if you do it a lot it will wear the teeth quicker but there is no problem if it's just one or two cuts. If you're worried use an old blade or one you're likely to replace soon.

When doing this eye protection is a must and not just cheap safety specs but decent ones that won't let anything through the side like these

Thick twat even got Marcus Rashford and Maro Itoje mixed up, not sure how….

Obviously because to cunts like him all black people look the same.

It depends on the drawer construction.

If it's the old school drawer box with the drawer front screwed to it the the middle panel through to the inside of the drawer box will work but you may have to countersink the screw.

If it's the modern Blum style drawer boxes i'd check the thickness of the panel (put a straight edge across the top and bottom rail of the drawer front and measure to the face of the panel, then deduct this from the overall thickness). If it's more than 6mm you should be golden as not much pressure will be out through the screws handle in normal use just don't overtighten. I'd be amazed if this wasn't taken into consideration when it was designed.

You'd better hurry up and start making those doors so you can prove @Airhead wrong then.

#trollface

Hasn't @Mr_Smyth just published all of his thoughts on the agents bone-idleness on the interwebz though?

Warning birch ply is expensive these days.

Ply direct these guys will supply full boards or cut to size

Or

Cutwrights who are a board cutting service but will supply birch ply.

My efforts over the last 4 days.

Quick finish up and tidy up tomorrow.

I'm amazed you managed to drill it squint. Even when I used to occasionally go to work hungover I failed to manage that.

Sorry I seem to remember saying it was hard to do.

It's fine! Get the labourer to slap a bit of filler in the massive hole in the plaster that goes back to brick and offer the usual 30 year / 35 yard guarantee*.

😉

• Work is guaranteed for 30 years or until the builder gets 35 yards away from the property upon completion whichever comes first.
  

I think that part of this is traditional estate agents holding back properties from Zoopla etc. to justify their fees. There have been a number of properties near us recently that have had the sign etc go up 2 weeks before they appear online.

storing documentation

A lot of solicitors will do this for you for a flat fee.

Rolex Subs

Why is a watch company selling sandwiches? How are they so valuable that they need a safe?

The crimson fret rubbers are basically their version of Garryflex which has been around for aaaaages, comes in bigger blocks and is cheaper.

In reply to all of the recent safe chat. I would think long and hard about putting a safe in your house.

I am about to start working for a family who are recovering from a burglary. The burglars found a safe in the master bedroom similar to the antique one up-thread. The burglars found it, pushed it to the top of the stairs then down the stairs. On its way down it knocked a hole in the wall destroyed several treads of the staircase and landed on the oak herringbone parquet floor in the hall tearing chunks out of it. Once it was downstairs they slid it along the floor into the kitchen, lifted it up onto the worktop and through a window pretty much destroying any surface it touched along the way. Once it was outside they procured a sack trolley and pushed it down the street in broad daylight.

My cousin is a police officer outside of London and I asked her about this, apparently it's not uncommon. Basically if you are broken into and the cunts find safe they will move heaven and earth to take it as they assume that there is "good shit" in there. My cousin once responded to a burglary where a safe was found that was bolted to a load bearing wall. The safe and the chunk of wall it was attached to were taken. They won't waste time trying to get into the safe in your property they will take the safe with them no matter how much damage they cause. Her advice is a safe deposit box is a better idea than a safe, but if you have to have a safe you need to hide it very well.

As @BrickMan says resin is the way to go.

The last time I used expanding bolts for work it was to hold shuttering for a single sided ~ 40ton ground beam that was single sided (TLDR a VERY complex concrete pour). We had to use expanding bolts as that is what was specified by the engineers at peri formwork and if we deviated before starting the pour the insurance would have been void. The issue of expanding bolts was raised, because they are shit, and they wouldn't budge. The expanding bolts were put into holes drilled by specialists and still failed because expanding bolts are shit. In the end the whirly bars were resined into place and are now still in the ground beam as they could not be removed - because resin works, unlike expanding bolts which are shit.

TLDR use resin not expanding bolts as expanding bolts are shit.

Steam bending timber is an art and possibly not a DIY project.

Don't get me wrong I'd move to the west coast in a heartbeat if my wife could find a way of making it work at her work.

I'd use a very sharp Stanley knife to score the scraps of paper as tight to the picture rail as you can get it, then remove them. It's hard to get picture rail (technically dado rail as picture rail sits much higher on the wall to hang pictures off #pedant) off without destroying it as I would expect it to be glued and nailed / screwed.

With regards to the skirting that's pretty normal (if on the large side) and would normally be filled with caulk during decorating.