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Yes they were very, very good. Their counterattack was particularly stunning, the odds on France winning the WC on home soil must be plummeting.
I'm more pissed off at a combination of the Wales result and this result. One game I think we should have won but let slip away and this week we were outclassed. To be honest I think there was two obvious tries we missed in the first half (Price and Hogg) but we still would have been outclassed if they had been scored. France stepped up a gear just before half time and then again when they came back from the break we had no answer for either.
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In the near future I'll also need to scribe some other boards against a wonky wall.
Compass and a hand saw would be my recommendation. I normally use a handsaw to make a scribe cut (unless speed is of the essence) as it's much easier to cut accurately to the waste side of the line. Back when I regularly taught apprentices I wouldn't let them near a jigsaw for a scribe cut until the could do it near perfectly with a hand saw.
When I have time I'll write up my process for scribing and post it.
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I hope so.
To be honest my biggest desire at present is for the Scotland team to put Matt Williams in his place. I mean I can understand his jealousy given how much more successful Toonie is than he was, but I struggle to understand why the coach with the worst ever record at international level is given a pundit job let alone why he thinks he has the right to be such a gobby twat in that role. The man was replaced by a school PE teacher who had a more successful track record......
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Also worth noting that the Quangsheng planes that workshop heaven sell are very nearly as good as the Lie Nielsen ones.
Both are made from the bailey / bedrock pattern.
Both are exceptionally well made and come guaranteed against manufacturing and material defects for the life of the purchaser.
The Lie Neilsen stuff has extra plane pr0n points but Quangsheng is developing a cult following.
I bought one of the Quangsheng rebating block planes as I don't use it enough to justify anything pricier and it's great. Body is fantastic the iron is as good as my other block plane I have 2 very small gripes:
- The adjustment screw on my Lie Neilsen is nicer (both in terms of operation and quality of knurling on the knob) but not by much.
- It didn't come with a sock so when it's being stored condensation will form on it which means I need to clean it more often.
Still a very, very nice bit of kit and worth every penny
- The adjustment screw on my Lie Neilsen is nicer (both in terms of operation and quality of knurling on the knob) but not by much.
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As @pryally says sapele would be good as would meranti (slightly cheaper but still a tropical hardwood - often sold as hardwood in selco et al). Softwood wise western red cedar looks amazing and is brilliant to work with, larch or doug fir nwould also be good shouts.
Do you want to paint it or show off your wood?

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Also @stevo_com
The Lie Neilsen low angle block plane is very, very good. There's also the added bonus of the more you use it the better the patina gets on the brass palm cap. They also do a brass bodied apron plane that is very, very nice but much more delicate.
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The batteries sit as low as possible in the chassis as they are very heavy items and mounting them as low as possible makes for positive handling characteristics. Normally to remove a battery pack you need to completely separate the body from the rolling chassis and then lift out the battery pack.
You may have noticed that many electric cars have a higher roofline than their Internal combustion engined counterparts, this is because you are sitting on a 125mm(ish) pillow of highly flammable lithium-ion batteries. Its also worth noting that the batteries cannot be easily put out once ignited. Current thinking is to let them burn and minimise damage to the surrounding area in development is a shipping container that can be transported to the scene of a fire and filled with burning car + water.
The clever idiot Musk is openly talking about integrating the batteries into the chassis of the next generation Teslas because y'know its a great way of guaranteeing built in obsolescence.
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Thinking either the Japanese saw 4 piece set or the marking set. Haven't decided, but leaning towards the saws.
The one thing that I would say is Japanese saws are amazing and last a decent amount of time.
Buuuuuuuuut.
In my mind, a present for the big 4-0 (especially one from your parents) should outlast you and be passed on to kids / grandkids / someone else you think a lot of.
In this respect Japanese saws are not ideal as unless you spend a truly eye-watering amount on a handmade blade and matching highly specialised saw files then you are essentially buying a disposable blade with very nice bamboo handle. Because the blades are so thin, they blunt easily. To overcome this the teeth are impulse hardened making the points of the saw very hard while the rest of the blade remains flexible. This way blades last a lot longer than they should but will eventually dull and because the teeth are so hard no file will cut them, so they are a consumable item. Workshop heaven will sell you a replacement but..........
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It'll be easy to figure out if she's circling the drain.
The queen insists that she is going to die in Scotland. As a result my cousin who is a motorcycle outrider for Police Scotland spends a lot of time each year rehearsing getting an ambulance from airports to any of the appointed royal death nests.
If there hasn't been an announcement about her recovery and she heads north then prepare yourself for months of commemorative daily mail souvenir editions. Oh and the tacky mugs/spoons.
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I'd start off with clamping it to a solid, flat surface for a day or two. If that doesn't work repeat with a shim in the centre of the bow so that you're bending it past the resting point. You're unlikely to get it 100% but should manage most of the way there. I can't guarantee that you won't crack the new finish.
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@Airhead has given you great advice - not much I can add (plus I'm late).
The advice I gave to senior bear about marking the door and frame is good for when your hanging many doors in timber frames (liners if I'm being pedantic). Because it helps you break the job down into parts and get a bit of a production line going. So: cut all doors to size, put all doors in frames and mark hinges, chop in hinges, swing doors and finally install locks and other iron mongery. I'll be doing that for weeks fairly soon as I've just taken a job installing all the fire doors for a new care home. Weeks of hanging doors with a 2mm tolerance on the gap, I can't wait #sarcasm
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Is that something which happens?
Any time you strip wood you allow it to absorb moisture which can potentially lead to movement.
Also if you left it leaning between the top and bottom gravity could help it decide to bow, especially if it's been like that for a while.
Finally if you sanded particularly vigorously (or applied too much pressure with a sander) and the wood had a high moisture content you could generate enough heat to soften then lignan in the timber and effectively steam bent it.
As the big yin once said
https://youtu.be/PsyXin4eiSY
Also when its not wet it's prone to being pretty fucking windy. For large parts of the summer if its not raining or windy you'll probably need to go outside wearing a midge net. But if none of these things are occuring good weather will be so glorious just seeing it and the scenery will make you happy just to be alive.