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Just had to buy a replacement 150mm backing pad for one of my sanders. When did they get so fucking expensive?!?

The guy I was talking about in my previous post was Blaise in trees which is in dinton, bucks.

It's not much nearer reading but Tyler hardwoods may be worth a shot

The ref normally wants to be seen blowing up for this at least once a game, but as you say even that's largely been forgotten in this particular tournament.

we regularly see players getting carded when they just happen to be the last offender

That doesn't happen at scrum time because it's recognised that external factors play a huge part, for example, if a prop loses their footing and the scrum collapses it's a penalty (scrum can be reset at the referee's discretion. If the pitch is badly cut up or the teams are playing in a monsoon it can be nearly impossible to stay up sometimes.

There is also the fact that organising bodies such as the 6N, Rugby Europe, or the IRB REALLY don't want to spoil their showpiece games by going to uncontested scrums (instead they spoil showpiece games by having 5+ minutes of referees having stern earnest cats with the front row while the scrum resets). So they pressure the refs, it's also why if a substitute prop is injured the player they replaced can sub back on for any other player this can only happen for a HIA and if the injured player can't come back the unsubbed player comes off.

Theres a guy in Oxford who buys trees from tree surgeons, planks and seasons them. I cannot remember the name of his business but I will dig out the details and get them to you.

You could also try Benson sawmills in Wallingford although you may need to season it before use, you have to ask them I've only ever bought high grade construction lumber from them.

why continually giving penalties away at the scrum doesn’t lead to a yellow?

When a yellow card is given for repeated infringements it's either the whole team doing the same thing over and over again or one player who keeps getting pinged much more than anyone else. There are several problems with refereeing the scrum:

1. Most scrum penalties are awarded for the actions, or lack thereof, of the front row. It's very hard to understand the front row unless you've played there. Very few refs outside of the grassroots level have played in the front row so have a limited understanding.
   
2. Refs can only see one side of the scrum at a time and while they get help from the touch judge it can be hard for the assistant to see if the scrum is in the middle of the pitch.
   
3. The amount of infringements that are worthy of a penalty is huge and rarely come up 2, 3, or 4 scrums in a row. Also again the refs aren't sure of what they are doing.
   
4. Even if the same problem keeps coming up it may not be the same player.
   
5. There is a duty of care that the referee has towards the front row as they have a much higher chance of life changing injury. Forcing a substitute (which is in reality what happens when a FR player is carded) could lead to tired players resulting in someone spending the rest of their life in a wheelchair.
   
6. NH teams are coached to use the scrum as an opportunity to win penalties.
   
   

TLDR - Refs don't know what is going on, are scared to act and teams in the northern hemisphere are coached to us a scrum to milk penalties not re-start the game.

Most of the issues with the scrum today could be solved if referees were instructed to police straight put ins. Props would have to engage higher to give the hooker room to work and the scrum would be a competition that teams could win against the head instead of milking penalties.

And @moocher

Surrey timbers is by far the best hardwood dealer (especially for hobbyists) I've found near London. I wouldn't recommend buying timber online as I know too many experienced guys who've been ripped off. The guys at Surrey timbers are as friendly as you'll ever get at a hardwood dealer and they know their stuff, a huge range and also sell packs for wood turning and other crafts.

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especially in Rome

I'll be hiding behind the sofa like a 10 year old watching Dr Who take on the daleks.

It's like trainspotting (wrong city I know) if you replaced the heroin with acid.

I'm guessing that the dots aren't a true geographical representation of the actual location of the IP addresses (I'm not too good at information or technology). I can guarantee that no one who lives where the dot is in Aus goes outside when the fucking suns up let alone rides a sweet fixeh when the suns up or for 6 hours before of after its in the sky.

If the building inspector has signed it off there's no problem.

Pro tip: Get photo documentation yourself with date / time stamps of everything the building inspector has been to check. I worked for a client in the past who had to remove large sections of bonding and plaster, then make good again, at their own cost, because the council building inspector lost the paperwork.

I can't see very well from your photos but are those steels sitting on padstones?

A 3am shite should not be smell-able from where you sleep

You normally sleep surrounded by your own gaseous emissions, why is it different if it comes from having recently "dropped the kids off at the pool"?

Totally with you on the macerators though, and they can be noisy fucking things.

Ideally the pvc pipe should be surrounded by pea shingle to protect it and stop it cracking when you get the whacker plate on the type 1.

I've done a fair bit of formwork for concrete in my time and while what you are suggesting is a good idea it is not easy to acheive in practice. Concrete doesn't easily flow (unless you get a poker in it as its being poured) the problem is if you do get a poker in it the formwork will want to float on top of the muck. If you don't use a poker the formwork won't rise up but it will be hard to get the concrete under it and the risk of leaving voids will be very high if you leave voids the whole slab can potentially be compromised. On a civil engineering site channels like that would normally be acheived by pairing an experienced formwork chippy and an experienced concrete finisher working together, the formwork would be made with an open bottom and held in place with steel wire and the concrete finisher would be able to make the bottom to the right depth.

Other problems that you have will be striking the shutter after the concrete has cured, this can be problematic even with foil coated shuttering ply and the world's best releasing agent - red diesel (there is a reason why concrete workers are known in the trades as muck-savages). Also ensuring that the channel is completely inaccessable from the outside of the building - if its not it WILL become a rat run, I know this because back when I was a supervisor on big commercial rennovtion projects my least favourite job was superising labourers in hazmat suits digging out years of chewed up stuff, rotten food and of course rat piss and shit - unless its completely sealed the little shits will get in.

If I were doing what you are trying to do at my house I'd do it one of two ways:

1. Pour the slab and hire a floor saw (basically an angle grinder version of a plunge saw) or chaser (the same but it cuts out a channel) and cut a channel when the concrete is still green. By green I mean just hardened - the chemical process that makes concrete go from liquid-y to hard takes time and after it is set it will continue to get harder for a couple of months, during the inital stage of this hardening process the concrete is darker, some (presumably colour blind) people say its green in colour at this stage but importantly its much easier to cut. Once the channel has been cut fill it with your pipes and then back-fill with either concrete or sharp sand and cement.
   
2. Pour the slab to ~ 60mm below the height you want and put a screed over the top to bring the floor up to the desired height. There is an added bonus with doing this you will get a MUCH better surface for laying your floor if its done really well you may even get away with not putting self levelling on it.
   

Given how quickly you say mould forms it sounds like something is fundamentally wrong with the bathroom install. Out of curiosity does the mould appear low down then creep up the walls, or does it start high up and come down? Is there a window in there or is it a typical afterthought pit of despair type en-suite with no natural light?

Whatever you choose to do you are looking at a medium sized job:

Keep as bathroom

1. Remove (and re-use?) bahroom suite
   
2. Tear out and re-do walls, consider backing all tiles with wediboard or similar
   
3. Fix any plumbing boo-boos and install an efficient in-line extractor that is controlled by a hydrostat
   
4. Re-instate bathroom re-tile and re-finish
   
   

Convert to utility

1. Tear out bathroom.
   
2. Pull up floor to cap and/or redirect waste to desired location
   
3. Tear out walls
   
4. Bring in electrics to room for sockets etc (I don't know if it would be possible to use the feed for the shower by lowering the rating of the fuse on the CU you'd have to ask @Airhead or @Nef )
   
5. replaster walls
   
6. fit units / worktop /sink
   
   

Either way you are looking at spending a decent chunk of change, without knowing the specifics of your property I'd say keeping the en-suite would be the cheaper option.

It does sound like you've made your mind up, but playing devils advocate moar en-suite bathrooms = moar value in the head of most estate agents.

Nice. SG basses always make me think of Jack Bruce.

When they first came out the theory was that because there is a dish to the bevel they grind plane irons for normal planes would be prone to chipping. It's not really a problem though. A low angle plane cuts bevel up so it's not an issue but you shouldn't use the Charlesworth ruler trick on the back of the plane iron something people often forget.

But that is a low angle plane therefore sharpening principles are much closer to those of a chisel😈.

Next you'll be splashing £400 on a Tormek.

Spot on.

Its a common problem I come across at work especially with modern level access bi-fold door setups that are oh so popular these days.

Roger Bisbee explains it much better in this video (from about 0:30 - 3:00) than I can by tapping away on my phone you'll be applying it to a different issue but the principles are the same.

https://youtu.be/QwfXBAldPUw

we'll have to do some investigating.

From your pictures you have enough wiggle room to play with the reveal on the inside. Buuuuuuuuut (and it's a big but) you need to be careful in doing it, ideally when the opening is formed there is a slight fall on those bricks. That way any water getting in will hit it and make its way back outside. If you're going to play with levels inside I would strongly advise putting a dpm at the bottom of the opening (where it currently is), this should fold up along the inside surface of the window and finish just below the top of the worksurface to force any water ingress back outside. If you don't do this you run the risk of inviting damp in and you'll know fuck all about it until its way too late.

EDIT if that makes no sense let me know and I'll upload a sketch which should be easier to understand.

Bit jealous of that. It's better than my rider low angle jack. Also worth treating yourself to a good honing guide.

I'm hoping to have the worksurface extend back over the window sill flush with the rest of the worksurface

In that case I'd say your best option is to see if you can do it with the legs . If you can't use ply under the legs to lift the units up the extra 20ish mm. Doing what you're planning I'd get a stone / resin type company out to template and custom make the worktops as it will be the most reliable way to get a good, long lasting finish

The limiting factor is the window frame.

There is some adjustment on the legs of kitchen units but it's closer to 20mm than 40. The legs are adjusted from underneath the units and are basically plastic screws, pull off the plinth and check how much thread is showing, more thread = less scope to increase the height. Remember you will need to check ALL the legs as you will need to lift all of the units.

Next is slightly more invasive don't do it until you know how much you need to take off the sill and if you're likely to be able to achieve it. You will need to take the tiles off. As the reveal is tiled it's most likely plaster under them if you're in luck it will be bonding and top coat. You may be able to take enough of this off to get where you want.

There is no guarantee that you can get this done. Even if you can, you've got to make good with the tiles, the worktop will sit under them.

P.S there is a rough and ready way to do it: shim up the feet of the kitchen units until the worktop is at your desired height, you will still need to do something about the tiles.