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the times you can't ignore - sprung to mind, had to leave it here :)
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i know it’s a ‘51, but someone please buy it and turn it into something special.. one of my dream frames and i really don’t want something i can’t use.. :)
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F202696537653
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cassette lockring torqued properly?
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should be. all cable pull data i found on 10s campag stated the same thing.
is the cassette new? if not, is it custom built? spacers are not the same thickness throughout the range/ratio
also, some useful info here:
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thanks :)
more info on that frankenbike over here: https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/320564/
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@Howard - is this a regular 1.5" steerer instead of the older 1.56"? also, the Oliver seems to use the Lefty 50 hub, which is the plain old Lefty hub that all forks used back in the day, non? so it is the easiest version to find..
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sure you can! check out @Scrabble 's recent posts. (won't point you to my thread as streetX frames are practically impossible to find...)
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they do the same thing as an oval chainring without the constant tugging of the rear derailleur, if i'm not mistaken :)
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well, ok, but do all cannondale owners know about that? someone on here might see this as a great opportunity to go from fatty to lefty.. and then comes the dentist's bill..
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this is what i did.. pine slats spaced away from the wall (with a piece of offcut from their ends), icetoolz hooks bolted through them. slats prevent the bikes from contacting and staining the wall
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noice, that looks ace! :)
the cheapslate is being used, but not finished yet.. still needs bartape and i recently managed to buy a nos rebound adjuster i've been missing which my boss kindly brought over from nevada.. trouble is, it's in the office and i rarely (almost never :D) go there to work..
so when i stop being lazy, i'll go get that bit and machine a top cap for the lefty to hold the lockout/rebound assembly together.
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steerer is 205mm long and the narrowest point between the blades, before they start curving in is 32.7mm
edit: i think slice premium, premium+ and si were made with the same mould, ultra forks are a bit different
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if you ever decide that you want to throw some sterling at this frame, i might part with my si forks :)
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you can try.. write a message in google translate and ask if the seller has watsapp. if he/she does, you have better chances. also, only ask one question at a time.
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save yourself the trouble..
99% of the sellers won’t reply to your message a) because they will only talk to you via phone, b) because you didn’t approach them in italian. google translate seems to do the trick in some cases :)
of the remaining 1%, 99% will not want to post, even within italy.. :D
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you certainly CAN... but things will get fucked up. this is an ISO crank that has been used on a JIS spindle. the pic shows the correct factory ISO bb - the crank arm is just put on, not tightened...
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those campag cranks require the 102mm bb. and never use a shimano bb with campag stuff. the taper of the axles is different.
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put it up for sale for less time than the toothpaste caad and offer postage so you can a bit more for it :)
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10% off until the end of this week!
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thanks :)
i have to pass though, car projects are in focus atm and having an old ctrack makes it really difficult to justify another track-ended 'dale..
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i'd go for black post, silver clamp (bbb above), turquoise seatpost clamp and yolk-yellow outers :)
i went for silver/black on my fixed and the rule was to have high contrast between meeting points, so if frame is silver, post should be black :D
also, seatpost colour=stem colour
LFGSS
London Fixed Gear and Single-Speed is a community of fixed gear and single-speed cyclists.
anyone interested in this (not mine)? can help with packaging and postage. price is 185k huf ~ £510 w/o postage.
https://bolha.testbike.hu/apro/cannondale-caad7-black-lightning-200-of-300-campa-340701