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If you were that bad at change, you wouldn't use shifters at all.

#makerknife ? I like mine even though I’m a bit sick of the creator.

Thanks! The floor tiles are actually a dark forest green/grey concrete tile.

I haven't used any other device for power readings, only ever the turbo itself. I think a lot of it is feel. I find that the flywheel speed has more of an influence on the Kickr, like I need to be in a heavier gear to avoid the ERG spiral of death.

I've only ever used them with Zwift, and the differences I mentioned were noticeable when doing a workout on ERG mode.

Only just found the thread, but I recently swapped from a Tacx Flux 1 to a Kickr V5 due to connection issues with the Flux. Kickr is better in every way, except that now everything feels about 10% harder. I haven't yet done a new FTP test, but workouts at or above threshold suddenly feel very difficult! Anyone have a similar experience?

Haha, good point I didn't realise that photo was from before the tap went in. Rest assured, the tap was functional before the toilet was christened.

If only my wife would let us get the toilet!
(it will not stay tidy for long if the rest of our house is anything to go by)

Higgs in the winter mood

My wife and I have just spent the last 3 days finishing the downstairs toilet before christmas. Tiler was in last week which meant we only had this weekend to build and install the units and install the toilet. The last unit has no door as it will be where the cats litter tray lives. Super happy with it, sorry no before pic but it really was horrendous. Lino floor on top of cracked tiles and an unused shower unit in the corner. Learned a lot on this one, and only flooded the room twice…

One I saw in a shared garage

As long as you know they probably have a foam core, so the CSK screws into the base may not hold very well. Did you use proper ski screws on the first version? They generally have a larger thread:shaft ratio to help the hold in light materials.

Would there be enough room to store them vertically against the wall? Would mean the drivetrains are slightly further from the weather and make it easier to grab the second bike. You could then attach a tarp to whatever hook you choose and just bungee it under the rear wheel.

It is normal for a carbon steerer to have visible parting lines from the mold as you say. However, that fork is pretty poor quality. It looks like there is an alloy insert in the crown, so I suspect that the steerer has been bonded on after the main section of forks was molded. Nothing inherently wrong with that and could explain the rough surface.
It also looks slightly concave where the crown race should sit, so I can't see how the crown race will sit concentrically to the steerer.
Is it an aftermarket fork?

That sounds normal, best practice would be to store your battery inside overnight so it's warm going into the bike.

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If the washer is separate from the boss, then the broken boss bit would be a very quick job for someone with a lathe.

I've got a bathroom renovation project where I want to move my toilet half a meter to the side. I'm going to do thei with a hidden cistern and build a small wall (1m high, 2m long) around it. We plan to finish the wall with wood panelling, but I'm trying to figure out what I should put under the panelling. The wall is only 100mm thick, but there needs to be 20mm thickness on the panelling for the toilet flush panel. As our panelling is 14mm thick, my idea was to use some 6mm ply behind it. Would that be stable enough for this application or am I better using something else?

If you’re hitting the top of your head where a light would be mounted then you’re normally in big trouble already. There could be the unfortunate situation where you’re sliding and the light catches on some street furniture. In this case, yes, the extra mount will likely increase the torque on your neck.

It sounds like you might be better cutting the whole section out and glue/screw a new piece in the frame if the old piece is such a mess.

The first half of your statement is true, the second half is not.
Helmets reduce the amount your brain moves around by reducing the accelleration of your head when it hits something hard. That can be either linear through compression of the foam, or rotational through providing a slippier surface.
Helmets aren't perfect, they won't save you from everything, but they're a lot better than nothing at all.

I think a liberal application of the radius / round tool would make this look nicer and be quite a bit stronger.

Did you find a solution? I suspect it is a glass fibre tube that they insert with a semi-rigid mandrel after the frame comes out of the mold. I wouldn't see an issue with poking a hole in in with a drill if you have the access through the exit hole.

You could borrow a pressure washer and buy a cheap rod kit

Doesn't sound like you're missing anything. How does the grommet come out of the frame? Did they give you a blank replacement if you are routing internally? Can you see / access the guide via the bottom of the headtube?