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Road disc is 135mm, mtb can be 135 or 142.

El Cap has moved to Yellowstone???

Yep. I'm pretty sure the only difference between mtb and road is the shape of the lever. I went for road. Just make sure to get the right length! Only disadvantage is it takes a bit longer to make a wheel change. Still quicker than bolt-thru though!

The hose fitting will be the same, but the bolt may be a different length. You can re-use the old bolt if it's not damaged though.

Go for RWS, it was such an improvement on my TCX.

Some pads will also have a chamfer on the bottom edge to help you get the disc in and out which will affect the contact area.

Are the pads hanging over the outer edge of your disc? It could just be that your new disc has a slightly wider braking surface than the previous one. I've seen a few shimano setups where the entire pad is being used, but only about 80% of the disc surface.

I dipped a spare spoke into the oil, then partially threaded it into the nipples to transfer some oil onto the threads. Seemed to work and kept things fairly tidy.

Have you lost the little spring that sits between the lever and the adjustment plate? Only other time I've seen this is when the cylinder gets stuck but if you say the brake is working as normal, then that's not the problem.

I know, still doesn't make 360g a volume.

Just less maintenance when you're flying through dirt and water regularly, no damage to the hub when you inevitably ignore that little crunching sound...

Maybe for a touring bike it makes sense to have something serviceable anywhere, so loose balls might be better. In that case, I think the CX 75 is shimano's only 'road specific' offering, other than that it's Deore or SLX as I said.

You'll have to go for Deore or SLX. Although why do you specifically want Shimano? I'd go for something with cartridge bearings on disc wheels.

No real-world differences between centrelock and 6-bolt IMO.

Total Volume = 360g. Wut

Quite a few Cateye 'Rapid' and Moon lights come with different rubber bits to fit aero posts.

You can normally do this with a bracket meant for saddle rails. I ended up making a custom one for mine though as my rails were too close together.

I have a Volt 300. Been good for about 3 years now, including one high speed drop (my fault) where it suffered nothing but a scuff on the battery. It was my daily commuting light, come rain or shine, bright enough to cope with complete darkness at ~20mph easy enough and the pulse mode is really good for traffic.

Probably just a bit of grit between the spacers somewhere. I got mine on today too, the Giant headset is sunk so far into the headtube that I had to use a 3mm spacer UNDER the sts cover to get it to not bind up on the headtube.

The tension is palpable...

We just have to increase the pressure and I'm sure we can force them out.

You've proven yourself indispensable here.

Hopefully not anything more than changing the crown race along with the rest of the headset as long as the fork steerer is a normal diameter. As someone else said, if you're not prepared to get out the calipers and measure everything, then I'd take it to a shop and get their advice.

But be careful with the race on the Spec forks. That bike probably had one of Specialized's 'Hiddenset's. Which means zero stack headset with caged ball bearings.

Nope, just newgrounds and miniclip.

Yep, didn't notice that change, here you go!

1. Sparky - "SPARKY" - type 3
   
2. richardaldred - "MY POWER MY PLEASURE MY PAIN" - type 2
   
3. amey - "गांडू" - type 3
   
4. 7VEN - "NAHBS WANK" - type 2
   
5. umop3pisdn - "NTAGASF" - Type 2
   
6. chiroshi - Spin .png file - Type 2
   
   

I'd like it posted to Switzerland aswell if possible, will pm to arrange monies etc.