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Bit odd, especially as the lower one is the normal gauge for a 6 amp lighting circuit and the others look like 2.5 mains.

The best way to do it is take it off the hinges and cut it with a track saw. Anything else is more difficult and time consuming.

Even cutting with a handsaw when it's off the hinges is quicker than trying to do it in place.

Yes, but that's only part of avoiding brush marks in acrylic paint and it's a big subject with lots of different considerations depending on the surface, paint, humidity, temperature, brushes, painting style.

You would probably get better results with a small roller. Brush quality does matter but technique with a brush plays a part.

I think peel stop is a good idea but personally I can't see any quick way to properly decorate that. I would be thinking sand it off then prime with B.I.N. Aqua and 2 top coats. That's my lowest standard!

Very often the outlet pipe from the washing machine can be replaced. Then take the rest out and put in an adjustable height U bend with one or 2 inputs for washing machine/dishwasher. Getting rid of the large flexible pipe. Why anyone would end up with the arrangement they have now is hard to fathom.

Maybe you will need a bit of pipe for a u bend to connect to.

Nuke it from orbit.

It should really be redone from the floor or ceiling vertically to the socket but you can have a horizontal cable between 2 sockets.

If you don't mind having the conduit it's pretty easy. You do need to have a socket where the hole is for compliance.

A surface mounted pattress should be mountable to the back box that's there, then mount a new socket on top. You can butt the conduit up to the pattress, they have punch outs for that.

A photograph would help to get an idea but it sounds like it should be sanded/filled/primed/undercoated and 2 top coats which is a lot of work but all pretty normal for decorators.

Sorry to say it's hard work to get good results.

If you have good quality paintwork then use a deglossing spray and Allcoat on top. You might need to run a soft pad 120grit over it as well.

For me it's 4 coats of paint on woodwork, minimum.

There's a new acrylic version that's a great replacement for a shellac based version like BIN.

One coat paints only really work if the existing paint is in good condition and you key it properly.

So tempted to tell you how mad I went on masonry one time. I'm going to spare you the details of my obsession though.

If you skim masonry with the appropriate filler and sand it lightly you can get a smooth finish that rain will largely run off and the masonry looks better for longer.

It's often better to skim the whole piece and sand it otherwise the patches of different texture will 'grin' and make the masonry look very patchy in some light.

Adhesion is the biggest part of the problem so proper keying before skimming is absolutely necessary.

There is a BAL primer available from Topps which you could use for the plywood. Unfortunately you'll need to buy enough to do a lot more than the size you need to cover.

You'll probably want to try different engine types in time but I would look at a Honda twin with a low centre of gravity. V twin would be my preference or the Svartpilen 401.

You could use All-coat. I usually use the gloss version. For front doors I have used LG exterior eggshell but the last few I've used Mylands. It will depend how accurate you need the colours to be. If it's a statement colour then be careful getting it mixed in a different base.

Usually a front door doesn't need a lot of paint, .75 or 1l.

I've used a lot of the water based but not used the solvent based one. I've yet to have a problem with the water based one and solvent would normally be a messy clean up and fumes.

I ran in Pegasus for a year and really liked them. Changed to Asics Novablast and got quicker immediately. You might find it enough.

I've had a project VC-S for a few years. They don't last that well but are cheap by record cleaner standards. It's a noisy boring job but you can make some cleaning solution and see if you can get the records clean. I've done a lot of new records and quite a few used ones with varying levels of success.

I like clean records but don't like cleaning them! You might want to get some anti-static inners as well, you won't want to put your clean record back into the dirty sleeve without a liner.

One I've had recommended is the Nessie RCM but it's expensive.

I've been warned not to keep a lens with fungus with other lenses. I have one that was cleaned. It does harm the value of an expensive lens but it still takes great pictures. I've not seen one with such diffused fungus covering the whole lens though.

It started as an effort to drive traffic to small bricks and mortar record shops.

Battery power has improved a lot. I just don't see a battery tool as viable in the long term. Perhaps they are becoming more viable with the EU pushing for a standard battery connection.

The Mafell is only a little bit better. The new Festools might edge the Mafell ones, I've never used either.

You are infinitely more qualified than me but I FUCKING HATE when the power cord of the track saw gets hung up on the edge of the track

I do hate that. I get better at it if I'm doing a lot of cutting but it is very frustrating when it happens. Like DBR I have an integrated power cord on a hoover, mine has an overhead boom. That's about the best way to use the corded tools including sanders and the domino as it gets both cable and hose out of the way. Obviously not worth investing in unless you plan to do a lot of work!