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A cabinet scraper for the flat parts. You need to learn how to prepare the blade but it's doable with a vice, file and a hardened screwdriver. You could get a curvy one to try on the mouldings but that's going to be tricky.

It doesn't look like it needs much scraping if you could get a primer to stick to it that might be the way to go.

Got to love a squared tyre. When you get to know the tipping point it's kind of ok.

They overcome the problem by being short so overall resistance is low. It's also 12v 3000A not 240v so it's not like you're powering a cooker and cooker wiring is not much thicker than that.

Some of those knobbly tyres are deadly cornering in the wet (or cornering at any time).

Yes, it's highly rated by some trades. Personally I didn't get on with it. Didn't flow very well, not much levelling and at the time expensive where it was available.

It seems to work for some people though.

I always ask myself when I'm looking at HD's, "Have you been putting on a bit of weight recently?". The answer is usually yes!

Usually white gloss is rated for 8 years, colours for 6. It's usually about heat, black matt gets much hotter than white gloss in the sun so it tends to crack and age faster.

+1 for Cuprinol. Did a sage green fence for a client early summer and it worked well with 1 coat. Very runny paint though so cover anything you don't want splashes on.

I've been using Zinsser Allcoat for basic white gloss, it's available as a gloss or satin though.

These profile scrapers are useful.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/MANUFORE-Stainless-Removing-Scraping-Contoured/dp/B0C23MVFB1/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?

Infrared stripping is the best way, unfortunately the tools are expensive.

I got them writing to a synology NAS very easily as well. Apparently you have to be a bit cautious which disk you are targeting because the motion activity can create a lot of small amounts of disk writes.

I do that with the Tapo C200 inside the window.

Check the regs but ipx4 should be allowed in Zone 1 according to my very recent check.

Zone 1 :- Electrical items installed in this area can be mains voltage but must have an IP rating of IPX4 or higher and must be fitted to a 30ma RCD or equivalent RCBO protected circuit. Low voltage items can also be installed in this area, but the transformer must be located outside of zone 2.

The one you linked to is IPX5

That is the good type. Heavier and a nice wide step.

The clutch is the only job I didn’t diy on mine. It’s possible the clutch material aged and then disintegrated when you started using it. It’s a dry clutch so it could sound like an angle grinder.

I’ve been diy servicing mine for 20 years. There are great when you get them in good order.

It’s difficult to understand what the problem is. Do you think with the clutch engaged it’s metal on metal or a piece of metal in the clutch plates. You know it’s unusual in having a car type clutch. The clutch cable could be failing slowly and stretching.

The Dub Siren DX app can load samples and change playback pitch etc.

Plus it's a decent Reggae radio.

Missed your last message, can't think of anything but it sounds like it would be more like a doorbell.

Mine’s up 50% this year with no claims or changes.

I've been trying to do this with my jam sessions but I'm not into it for the editing!

Compression would probably be a good next step.

I like it.

I guess it's the transformer or the USB socket that will fail. On top of that there's the shifting standards although USB C should be around for a long while. The older USB versions are going to be less and less useful as time passes.

The electrical installation industry is not keen on them because they all need to be removed before you can carry out 500v resistance tests on a circuit which are part of the installation process. You can test at 250v but 500v is the recommended test.

If you can afford to change them when they fail or can do it yourself then they're a modern convenience.

They are still a bit of a dubious proposition although you should get years of use out of a USB C one before it either fails and requires replacement. Normal sockets rarely fail and lots of examples exist from the 70's. It's a convenience for the end user but there's a trade off as always.

Equipment generally doesn't like the heat. I had a Cambridge amp in a cupboard and some components blew due to heat.

I would normally start with LSX. It has saved me a lot of these kind of problems.

Picked up one of these from a Swatch shop without any prior plan. Have been sitting on it for a week. It looks great at night, probably more of a winter colourway. I need to change the strap. I like it more than I expected to.

Happy Friday