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I would say a lock with dimpled key, like Masterlock or Banham is a minimum requirement considering how easy the normal type are to bump and open. Sadly home invaders are likely to kick your door in rather than pick the lock, unless you live in a spy novel.

Reinforcements like a London bar and hinge bolts are a good defense.

I think you can get it matched. Front door I would recommend a very expensive paint. Mylands do an exterior grade paint that is really lovely to work with and you can get it tinted by papers and paints. It’s expensive even for a small quality but if you are planning an accent colour it’s worth it. There are a few sheen levels available.

Just did a black gloss door in Zinsser All Coat, it’s primarily an exterior paint, and it came out well but the Matt black I’ve used previously was nicer to paint with and seemed to have a bit more levelling. I’ve painted a lot of white on windows and surrounds and it works very well. It’s better with a few coats of a thick undercoat for levelling though.

Zinsser All Coat is very easy to apply and strong once it's cured (7 days). Needs at least 2 coats though. Should be on top of a primer/undercoat despite the fact that it says self priming on the tin.

The latest iPad pro is overkill for TV but the screen on them is very very good.

I agree with the other comments, they look fine, little to be gained by doing it the other way and practically better the way it's been done.

I would get some uprights to support the shelves if you are keeping vinyl on them. Doesn't need to be fixed in place, just as long as it connects to the floor for weight bearing, so the shelves would need packing out under the centre there. Or at least have a back on the shelves that helps to support the shelf. It will be a lot of weight.

I would be stripping those with an infrared stripper. Tricky not to crack a pane of glass though. It can be done by hand with a carbide scraper/chisel but then you would just scrape the worst bits and blend them in by sanding.

They need new putty too. I would use an acrylic putty, real putty takes months to dry before you can paint it and in some places birds like to eat it when it's soft.

Yes, from @freddo who put in quite a bit of effort to find it but then found another grail. It's a very nice example.

It was the dial that really sold it to me. The fade is really nice.

Happy friday

These are not in bad shape. I would only strip them if they were rotten and needed repairs splicing in.

Take the loose paint off with some sandpaper and prime and paint.

Not sure the mileage is the issue. Check the magnetic connector on the base of the battery and the top of the contacts for any small metal pieces. They did release a replacement catch.

I would take it to Brompton Junction and see if you can get some help from them. They know there were issues. It did help me that I bought mine from them directly.

Are you outside the warranty period. I had my motor, battery and charger replaced by Brompton under warranty, there were obviously problems with the early ones.

There are versions for joining lino that are flat.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/carpet-cover-strip-aluminium-0-9m-x-36mm/494PR?tc=IB2&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwnK60BhA9EiwAmpHZw6VzIkU28pYw0J_cxnHtVCtcodpDrY3vX7FqG1S2q9qDTyvo1HIAaRoC7QwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

There are many different profiles of aluminium strap for carpet edges. You could place shorter ones end to end to cover the whole distance.

Varies a lot, some of it is dense and full of resin, other bits are like balsa. Most of them can be sanded but it's not a very hard wood generally. It appeals to window makers because there's usually no knots.

Could try one of the razor scraper blade things but you can gouge with those. You are having to tackle a horrible problem there though. Hand sanding as @bluehuw says would be a starting point for a lot of decorators.

Any builders merchant will have some but the patterns vary from door to door so you often have to accept a close match and then trim to fit. Sometimes it's easier to make them from PAR timber on a table saw.

I missed your earlier question...

The best way to run the Roon endpoints is ethernet. You can use a Raspberry Pi with an audio hat running Roipeee to get the ethernet into audio and through to an amp.

You can find a lot of streamers that will accept an ethernet input.

You could make a Roon Rock from an old i5 NUC. I did it a few years ago and it works ok. Of course the newer expensive NUC's are more expensive and fanless cases even more so but it will run quite a lot of stuff on an i5.

I use some Raspberry Pi's with audio hats running Roipeee. They are great via ethernet, faultless.

I got lucky and bought the lifetime membership early doors, spending on the rest of the kit was a slow process but it's solid.

Anything USB audio is likely to have dropouts and other issues from time to time. Cables make a difference sometimes but often it's just the USB bus not having time to poll the ports.

That's lovely. Lots of similarities to my '79 R80/7. Missing the special slim gaiters on the front forks though, I prefer the look of the front with gaiters on the forks and they are great for protecting the fork seals, not sure why they weren't fitted from factory on those models.

Looks to be in great condition. I had a chance to buy a very similar one from a friend but the price put me off a bit. I'm still very happy with my R80 as well. I put a lithium battery on it a few years ago and the weight difference improved the handling significantly.

He used to be a councillor in Hammersmith & Fulham before he left to run an unsuccessful campaign in the last general election. When I met him he told me his dad was active in the Labour party.

Might be best to cut through the render and into a mortar joint then put lead in that joint that covers the top of your wall (I guess onto a roof if that's what the wall is holding then mortar the lead in.

Handle spacing does have some common sizes. Painting them will probably not last given that they get touched a lot.

Really needs an S nose cone and S or RS bars. Double seat is better from a practical point of view, especially if you need to do longer rides as you'll want to reduce the frontal area. Otherwise you end up needing massive neck and shoulder muscles.

Maybe it's just me but I've had my R80 for 20 years and the nose cone and sports bars make all the difference for me.

You could disconnect the lower one and see if it remains energised when the circuit is on.