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In an ideal world It would be white painted seamless walls but with the ability to screw everywhere. The only way I can think of to achieve this would be 12mm mdf first and then pasterboard and skim afterwards. This is double work and double/triple cost so I think I'm going to rule this one out.

The leaves choice of plywood or mdf. Cost for those are similar if I'm going for not Birch ply. Birch is like triple the price so that's not really an option. I don't really know of a way I could make painted mdf look decent at the joints so it's looking like that isn't so much of a good option either, so I'm leaning towards 12mm plywood now with edges made a feature of somehow. I saw one example someone was doing shadow gaps by painting the studs black then spacing the plywood with even gaps. That could work. Or the chamfer pryally suggested or filly the gap with black mastic as you just suggested.

My dad has helped me out with this quite a bit and it's been a blast. As soon as mini me figures out how to use a hammer I'm putting him to work.

Apologies for the shite pictures, I only remembered to take them as the sun was setting.

So since last time:

1. I've installed a window. This was surprisingly more straight forward than I was expecting.
   
2. Screwed battens and counter battens in line with the studs all the way around
   
3. Started cladding the underside of the overhang. This is the only "horizontal" cladding the buidling will have. Nailing upside down is a pain in the ass, my wrist hurts. Also, I should have started on the fascia side as the last strip is proving a bit problematic to get tight.
   
4. Wall insulation. Oh my days this is a long horrible and incredibly messy job. I'm glad I have a powered respirator as you don't want to be inhaling this stuff. Cutting them to fit snugly has proven to be too annoying and take too long so I've settled for cutting them 5mm small and filling the gaps with expanding foam.
   
   

Not much else to report. Our baby is due in two weeks. This ain't getting done in time.

I replaced a ceiling unit with an inline one and the difference is stark. The inline unit exhausts steam out faster than it's generated.

New arrival is waiting for it's moment, but I have gotten fully side tracked with other activities so cladding has only gotten as far as the underside of the overhang. It does look very sexy though, cedar is so nice.

I'll give a proper update tonight with photos

Heidi at 18 months old. A year ago I made a wish that she would maintain her kitten proportions forever. Apparently my wish came true as she is still tiny and cute. She was the runt of the litter so no surprises I guess.

Her hobbies include being afraid of everything, following me or my wife around everywhere, sleeping in the centre of the bed, attacking our feet under the sheets, not allowing us to pick her up for more than 5 seconds, and being totally self sufficient with nutritional intake via insects.

I think most if not all the stuff from Wayfair is them rebranding products from smaller manufacturers, taking new photos and selling for a higher price tag. Not knocking it, I've bought a few things from them over the years and always been happy.

Yeah I think that's marketing bollocks. Same size hole = same amount of light. I think lanterns are just considered more wow . I guess you could get a much bigger lantern than you could a single pane of glass? If I had a choice between one massive lantern or say 3 flat roof windows I'd lean towards the lantern for aesthetics reasons. Although I don't think lanterns can be openable so that would be a drawback.

Really depends if you need a new roof covering or not. It might be possible to patch up your existing one after the new joists go in.

Depends how complicated your roof is. The actual skylight cost can be between £300 to £2k+ depending on size, whether you want it to be electronically openable.

The installation will probably be messy. Roof joists need cutting, new ones putting in, insulation faffing about with, probably a new roof covering too depending on what kind of roof you have. Then making good of your ceiling, plastering, decorating.

I'm going to guess somewhere between 3k to 8k total.

The last time I had a drier (standalone) was 10 years ago and I was finding it was ruining my shirts and fading my t shirts faster than letting them air dry. Was I doing it wrong? Are things better now? I have a washer drier courtesy of pervious owners but have yet to actually try the dry feature.

Also, what @Amey said.

:( I hate this part of cat ownership. I "saved" a mouse a couple of months ago but its legs were mangled and it couldn't walk. I put it in the garage with some food and drink in the hope it might get better. It didn't. I took it to the back of the garden and set it down but the poor thing got stuck on its back and desperately wriggling. I mercy killed it with a brick.

I'm too soft to be "putting down" cute furry animals, I don't know how vets do it.

Get the festool one,I've had a makita and it was curved. Also had a Triton which was OK but it would not join nicely with a festool so I sold that to go all festool rail.

The trtion connectors are better though and cheaper

I'm giving the internal wall lining some more thought and have been mmming and aaahing between MR MDF and plywood.

If plywood, would you leave gaps between boards and if yes, got any ideas on how to fill them or make them look nice?

Similar question with MDF? I was thinking it could give a nice smooth paintable surface so could look similar to a plastered finish if done right, but again the joints would be a problem. I imagine any filler I put in there would just crack down the line.

Any thoughts most welcome!

Have a look at slide and fold. They have standard sizes which are a bit cheaper, or fully custom. Mine were 2.2k for 3m.

Floor won't have any framing or joists as I have a concrete slab. I'm most likely going to be 50mm pir insulation directly onto the slab, then 18mm t&g chipboard and finally laminate or engineered oak.

I have more recently been thinking of ditching the insulation and screeding instead based on what some people say about the slab being a good temperature regulator.

Cladding arrived in tip top condition. Really pleased with Southgate Timber.

Everything I've read says stainless or it will react with the cladding.

I had no idea castellated battens were a thing. Smart. Seems to be a kiwi thing though?

Alas its too late anyway, I'm midday with my counter battening, but thanks for the knowledge

Yep T&G, the secret fix variety, designed to allow fixings to be easily covered by the next board. https://www.southgatetimber.co.uk/products/details/Western_Red_Cedar_Channel_GrooveST6

I'll find out tomorrow. From Southgate Timber. They say to order 10% extra as they cant guarantee perfect boards, but it's hard to just add 10% when its costing you more than £2k :/

How to fix the battens though? I want to avoid making holes in the cladding. Maybe masking tape and super glue could work, although it could be disastrous if it failed mid cut.

Yeah, I failed to mention it but I am first putting vertical battens down, then the horizontal ones. I think its called counter battening. Lots of extra faff I hadn't thought about at the design stage.

Normal single extrusion track. It's a festool ts55. I've got 2.8m worth of track, the wall is 4m so far too short

I'm going to start cladding shortly, vertical boards on horizontal battens. Should be straight forward enough on the square walls but am trying to figure out the least painful way to do the non square side walls with the sloped roof.

It's easy enough for my to cut the angle needed at one end of each board and put them up a bit long, but then how can I cut the bottom of all the boards in a neat straight line at the end? I have a track saw but I've never used it sideways, I'm not adverse to trying, but I can't think of a way to hold the guide rails up. Measuring them one by one is bound to leave to some zig zaggy effects so I'm not so keen on that option.

Another thought I had was to snap a chalk line to get my line and then remove them all, cut them and put them back, but that would take ages.

Any ideas?

Hero. I'll email them with the pic and see if they can help. Thank you!