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chipboard is there to spread load over the insulation which might otherwise dent under concentrated load such as foot traffic or table legs etc. It will help a bit with leveling too although I have taken out hollows using self leveling compound already.

Kingspan suggest something similarhttps://www.kingspan.com/gb/en-gb/products/insulation/kingspan-insight/articles-and-advice/why-and-how-to-construct-a-floating-floor

I need to put a vapour barrier down on a concrete slab before installing the flooring. The slab has a DPM under it already. I have a huge roll of DPM left over, can I just use that or is there a reason why I should use a thinner "vapour barrier"? DPM is a fair bit thicker but if I figure its there to prevent passage of moisture in the air so it will do the same job?

Sequence will be from top to bottom

engineering floorboards
t&g chipboard
vapour barrier
PIR insulation
Concrete
DPM

Maybe another layer of DPM above the concrete as well to stop any residual moisture from the slab coming up into the insulation? I have no idea.

18 months old with little use. It's a Stanley Cubix. Comes with clampy thing and carry case. In perfect working order

£30 collection from SE12 or Victoria area.

Nothing to report other than I put some shelves up as temporary storage whilst I work on the floor and the cat came.

Anyone had a baby during cat ownership? We had our first 3 weeks ago and Heidi is acting unusual (although in ways I like). The main one being she has suddenly become a lap cat after 1 year of no fucking way will I sit on your lap. She's started kneading my leg. Is she jealous? My wife is pretty much giving her zero attention now so I'm guessing she feels rejected? She's indifferent towards the little one, just gives him a sniff every now and again and walks off.

I have a tub of contact adhesive left over from my epdm roof if you want it, as well as lots of house wrap.

How do the height rules work with the green roof out of interest?

Yeah this. What's what the house wrap is for, it's breathable

Ta. I have considered this, do you think it is better to do it that way then a big sheet of polyethylene stapled to the studs?

Nice one! Let us know how it turns out. If you're using oak sleepers then I'd try get a friend to help you, they are hard to move around alone.

Yeah 400mm was my plan too, just got lazy for the side walls and did 16inch thinking I wa going to use plywood for the walls anyway but now Im more or less decided on plasterboard. Oh well.

Is the foil face to negate the need for a vapour barrier? I need to look into that.

Re the cladding corner details, yeah I saw that picture, and many others. Lot of ways of doing it. I decided to do it my own special way that no else has done. Im sure I'll regret it later but it looks nice and was very simple.

Maybe I'm being naive, but I'm expecting this to last 30 years without too much issue. If it dies after 18 years I'll be pretty annoyed.

Last time I tried to search for imperial sized plasterboard I couldn't find any, I'm not sure what tricks people usually use but if I go down the plasterboard route I'm prepared for 30% board wastage. I sized imperial spacing only for the side walls so it wouldn't be the end of the world.

For the raised bed, the dowells in for strength. They aren't plugs, rather 500mm long and hammered all the way through to lock the 3 layers of oak together. I used stainless steel screws so I'm not worried about them rusting, but I think with time they will possibly snap due to expansion contraction of the oak. The screws are basically just for assembly, and the dowells give the structure it's real strength, with the added bonus of looking quite nice.

That's a lot of tubing, should hopefully be plenty strong. I'm curious how practical the couplers end up being for you.

Is it single speed?

Got any tips for person with zero sewing on how to do this?

Nice! What size roof joists will you need to support the living roof?

Also what is the purpose of the floor joists over the slab?

Time for an update.

Since last time:

1. Bifold doors in. Suprisingly easy to get it installed and operating smoothly. Suction cups were a must. Took me a while to figure out why they wouldnt work smoothly without the glass, but somewhat obviously it turns out the glass is part of the structure and is used to square up the door sashs.

2. Drainage connected up and gutters in. Hooray for dry surroundings

3. Baby

4. Front cladding in. Took a while but it turned out rather tidy. Things to note are, figure out the spacing beforehand so you don't get any nasty details at the windows and edges. Despite me thinking long and hard about it, I still didn't quite get it the way I wanted. Cedar is lovely.

If they're the same as the sram hidden bolts then you should be able to knock it out. Just find a rod the right diameter, support the ring from the underside and hammer it out.

They were from Howarth Timber but I would not recommend at all. They were cheap for a reason I guess. Some were 90mm thick, some 110mm. More waney edges than I'd like. I lost several hours fucking around with laying them out so the bad sides were inside or back edge, and then a lot of planing to get rid of the bows. I'd spend more and go with someone else, or go to the store yourself and pick them out rather than couch shopping like me.

One of my sidetracks, my wife suggest I make some raised planters to help accommodate the piles of soil I have accumulated during all the digging works. Quite a simple construction, oak sleepers screwed together with big stainless screws diagonally from the inside, following by some beech dowels that connect through the lot to give it some strength. The perfectionist in me wasted another few hours by planing it all smooth and then sanding it (they were very rough sawn to begin with). I stapled some dpm on the inside to keep the soil from direct contact with the wood, hopefully it will last longer this way. I finished up with some coats of wood presever and then finally a coat Osmo UV Cedar coloured oil. Bit more vibrant coloured than I was expecting but I'm sure the sun will do it's thing soon enough.

Am quite pleased with how it turned out. I'll fill it up with soil and let the cats shit in it all winter so it will be nice and fertilised to start growing some vegetables next year.

Purely for aesthetics? That would lead to 400mm of waste for every plywood sheet?

Yeah its crazy that OSB and ply is imperial and plasterboard is metric. I elected for 400mm spacing for the back and front wall so I had lots of strips of OSB to cut to sit centres on the studs. For the side walls I went 16 inch centres because I was getting impatient and didn't want to cut the OSB. Would mean I'd have to lose 30% of every plasterboard should I go down that road for the side walls.

I think 9mm OSB comes in metric sizes, but the normal thicknesses are all 8'x4'.

If anyone knows of a manufacturer making imperial sized platerboards let me know!.

Interesting, I never heard of it. How are the edges done?

I guess the other way of looking at this is to revisit why you actually want wood walls rather than plasterboard. Anything heavy that is screwed to the wall is probably going to be fixed to the batons underneath right? So do you actually need the endless flexibility of being able to screw light-medium weight objects anywhere?

Yeah this also crossed my mind last night. Given that the stud pacing is only 400mm and I know exactly where they are, am I being silly with instance on wooden walls. Maybe I am. Plasterboard is fragile though and it being primarily a workshop will mean I will no doubt bash some wood into it eventually and put a hole in it.

I've never drywalled before. How does it work with regardings to plastering, can you just plaster over the joins or do you need to skim the whole thing?

I was going to ask if he was actually a gentle soul who wouldn't hurt a fly, but turns how he is a dinosaur hunter.

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