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Thanks. I hadn't considered making one out of wood. I don't have a lump big enough but I could laminate some offcuts of mdf together I guess. It needs to sit inside the 100mm hose as its of the flexible variety. I do want it to sit outside of the dust port in the table saw though, to avoid a ridge in the flowline, so that axminster linked one won't fit the bill unfortunately.

Anyone have any tricks to make dust extraction port adapters? My table saws outlet port has a outer diameter of 65mm. I have a 100mm hose from my extractor I'd like to connect to it. I cant find an off the shelf adapter that has an internal diameter of 65mm to slot over it. I used to have one that had an ID of 62mm which I filed out the inside of but it got so thin it just split and fell off the other day and mdf dust got blown out all over the fucking place.

My moon shield rear light fell off this morning (clip snapped) after 7 years of good service. I liked it a lot and am tempted to just buy another, but before I take the dinosaur route, should I consider a newer offering?

TraceR daybright, or a moon comet pro seem to be popular. I'm not sure about the latters battery life however. My main requirements are, be seen in the city at night, ease to swap between bikes, battery life in its "normal" mode to last 8 hours+ (I'd like to stick to charging once a week if I can).

Thanks @Bobbo and @Airhead regarding the fireproof foam and putty. I think ill go for the putty in case the mice have an appetite for foam

Hi all. Does anyone have any ideas on the sexiest way to do the reveals for the door and the window cill? I've tried using plywood, with any without a shadow gap and I don't like the look of either. I think the problem is how shallow they are.

I'm starting to think a corner L shape trim that will frame the door, painted anthracite grey but I kinda think that will look not so good either. Any design ideas most welcome!

Can anyone advise if there is a product I can use to close the rather large holes feeding the cables into the back of my consumer unit? Keep finding mice droppings inside the box so they must be coming up from behind the wall. Was thinking of expanding foam but I am concerned I may accidently create a fire hazard.

If you go down the pax route and need doors made, I could do it for you.

She's not alone.

Option 2 sounds interesting. So sand it flat, apply lining paper and paint? I have no experience with lining paper, can a noob do it?

:( I feel your pain. When Heidi was about 4 months she nowhere to be seen one morning before work. I turned the house upside down for her. After a couple of hours I gave up and came to the conclusion that she must have snuck out somehow and all that commotion during the night with the foxes was the worst. Then i stepped out the door to go to work, and spotted her hiding behind a bush shivering away in front of my neighbours house. The feeling of relief was quite something. Turns out the retard had fallen out of the 1st floor bedroom window (it was the only opening available and she had a limp). After a day she was back to normal though. She still hovers around that window.

About a year later our other cat went out the same window and got stuck on the cill (its like 2 inches wide), and was unable to backtrack the way she came. Had to get creative with a 2x4 to create a bridge from the window in the next bedroom. A few people on the street stopped to watch the drama.

It hasn't been opened since.

I've got this half arsed wall finished half arsed wall repair that I need to get sorted. It's a plasterboard wall that got caved in during a party. I don't know how the repair was done, but I'm guessing a square piece of plasterboard was spliced in to replaced the dented part. Problem is there is a hairline crack all the way around where this join was done, so a big square essentially. I don't know if a backing board was put in at the joint, or if scrim tape was used.

I'm tempted to sand it flat and get it painted up and hope the crack goes away? Can anyone advise what I should do? I really don't fancy taking out the panel and redoing it.

Maybe he's been enjoying the good life a bit much. He was fully clothed and wearing a sombrero mind.

£50 at just over 2 to 1 I think it was. Reason is he didn't beat him with a lucky punch, rather a battering over several rounds and made him quit. I think he'll do it again.

Don't get me wrong. Either can knock out the other, I just think Ruiz is the better fighter.

I've got my money on Ruiz to win again.

.

Anyone want a lightly used Elite Direto? Daddy time has taken over, I doubt I'll have the time to use it in the years to come.

Comes with its bits and a cyclops wheel riser. Would need picking up from SE12.

£390

Thanks. I don't know enough about plastering to be able to say what should have been done, but yeah, some kind of edge stop detail to keep them straight would have helped. I wonder if I should have put the plywood up first and let him skim onto it? It's not as bad as it looked in my previously posted pictures; I haven't put in all the screws on the top edge yet so most of the panels are bowing towards the room making it look worse. If I run out of things to do over christmas I might just take down the top panels, scrape the low points and make it more even and then put them back up. A lot of faff for some minor aesthetics though, but it is bugging me.

I didn't consider underfloor heating tbh, I assumed it would be more expensive than I was willing to spend and more work. I think I'll be happy with a roll around electric heater. Most of the time I spend in there will be work shopping so I'm moving around staying warm anyway.

Thanks for all the flooring suggestions, I have much to mull over. I think I'll do the window and door reveals next and hopefully the weather will warm up so I can stick the cladding onto the sides and free up the floor.

@dbr Thanks. Cork would look good I reckon, I worry about its spongyness with my heavy machines and rolling things around though. I'll get some samples in and see. I'm also thinking a light grey would look good.

@7ven Haven't tried to heat it yet, I still dont have real power there and it's also very dusty and smelly so I'm leaving the window open 24/7. I'll wait until I've got the proper electricity connected and then I'll give it a go. Need to decide on a heater too, I was looking at these radiant / convection heaters by duronic on amazon, but they advise not to keep them near walls, which for my case with my fancy plywood wall is probably double important. I'll probably just get a plug in oil heater.

Thanks! Perfect explanation I think, it makes perfect sense. I have indeed left them as gaps for the reasons you describe. I do want to caulk the top edge though for aesthetic reasons as @dbr mentioned. I guess I could use a proper sealant instead. I did have to make a big gaping hole in the vapour barrier for the wires into the consumer unit to pass through, I think I'll sealant around it and that should minimise any water vapour getting through there. Could also box it in with a decently sealed door.

Update! Had a plasterer come in to do the ceiling. He did a pretty decent job, although it's a bit wavy at the edges which doesn't look great with the crisp edge of the wall panels, but that's mostly me being anal as usual. After the skim I set about cutting up the birch plywood. I went for 12mm as it was a fair bit cheaper than 18mm and plenty strong enough. Cutting to size was straight forward enough, lots of measure measure tracksaw. I used 3mm window packers to help with maintaining a consistent gap, the laser level came in very useful too. Spending ages getting everything nice and square during the construction phase really paid dividends here. Thank you very much for whoever it was @pryally ? who suggested I stagger the boards. I think it looks significantly better this way than vertical boards would have.

I used lost-tite screws, which have a very small head and a nice T10 driver. I spent 10x longer than I otherwise could have by making sure all screwheads were in line with one another and evenly spaced (I may decide to leave them exposed)

I've also put in all the spot lights and ghetto rigged a plug to them connected to an extension reel from the house. Finally some proper light.

It's all coming together, need to decide on flooring and skirting next. I was originally thinking of going for oak (laminate or engineered wood), but now I'm not sure. If any style folk have an opinion I'm all ears, it needs to be 12-14mm thick though so it's flush with the door threshold.

Yeah fair enough. I've only used them in MDF and plywood projects and been happy enough but I know what you mean about things shifting as you drive the screws, I can see that being even more so with hard faced materials.

Impact drivers for pocket screws are a no no unless you have a delicate touch. Always best to use a drill driver and set the clutch to prevent you over-driving them.

K. I'll stick with my jumping on the end of the scaffold pole extension trick then.

Reckon I'd be able to get wheel nuts off a car with these and a 175Nm impact driver?

How does the sizing come up. I have a 32 inch waist and could get small (26"-34") or medium at (32"-40").

I'm inclined to go for the small.