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The axle is long on one side because it needs to provide clearance for the chainrings (otherwise they'd scrape the chainstay).

Kinda depends on what you're doing for the rear wheel. If you're adapting a multicog cassette, then you can get the 120 and adjust the chainline by moving the spacers around. If you're using a non-adjustable single speed rear hub, you're going to have to get more scientific.

The key data are: width of bottom bracket (probably 68mm); thread direction on each side; axle length; crank/axle interface (eg. square taper). That should give you all the information for you to go and buy what you need. Mebbe you don't know the axle length...

I've had to replace 3 broken axles for friends with this kind of freewheel (one 7, two 8 if my memory serves me). None of them is a lardy arse. Common feature was that they all rode down a hill with sleeping policemen and some of the roads are pretty shoddy around here (Devon). I was really surprised first time, now it feels commonplace.

That masking/insulating tape thing is pretty wasteful and time-consuming. I found a much better way. You use one of those small bulldog clips with some ShoeGoo added so it doesn't slip on the spoke and Bob's yer uncle.

I'm not clear on the problem you're trying to solve - it would help to see a picture. Are you looking for a stem with a clamp height of less than 25mm? I don't know if I've ever seen one. Or are you suggesting trying to get a quill stem to use with a non-threaded fork? Either way, it doesn't look promising...

Zebra, check out Sheldon's ideas on alternative cable routing to get around the spacing issues - http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#alternate. I've used it before and it does work with a bit of experimentation.

I use a PCS-9 and that's brilliant. Less than £80 if you shop around. It's foldable which is crucial for me when I pack up my tools and stand into my bike trailer and head to the market in Totnes for a bit of DoctorBike action on Saturdays. It's heavy duty enough for all jobs, including pedal removal, bb removal, etc.

That M Wave looks just like the Minoura portable (foldable) stand I have. I used it for both building and straightening. It didn't do a bad job really given the price. But having used a really good one now for a while, I couldn't go back to it. I think I'd do shoddy work now with it out of frustration with its lack of adjustability, its flimsiness and its poor centring (ie unreliable).

Good on you fellas. I do something similar here in Totnes. I have some useful documentation that I give out to the people on the course - eg safety checklist, tool list - which I'm very happy to pass on to you.

Cheers. Ben (www.doctorbike.org)

Drive side is reverse thread (clockwise to undo), non-drive side is normal thread (anticlockwise to undo). It's worth taking a lot of care removing the BB. The tool can easily slip out of the splines and start stripping them - and it gets progressively harder to engage them and apply rotational force. Sometimes a long axle bolt can be inserted through the tool and into the axle to keep the tool in place (kinda depends on the width of the tool and its hole, so no guarantees that'll work).

Glue + Bike = pain and embarrassment. No personal experience, just what I've read over the years. And the rudder falling off Concord.

I've just switched a Suntour freewheel with a Shimano one on an old rear wheel. They both threaded on fine. If it works for those, shouldn't be any different for your situation.

Use oil in freewheels, not grease. Personally, I'd leave it as it is for now, and I'd shove in some heavy oil when the weather starts getting crappy in the late autumn.

This looks pretty cool (and cheap) given the functionality it provides - http://www.chc-3.com/pub/wheel_stand.htm. I'd put the dial gauge on a shorter arm to avoid flex.

I've used forks, forks with zipties, crappy stands, reasonably quality portable stand (an older Minoura) and I now have a rather gorgeous Cyclus stand.

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I'd endorse the view that forks are better than a shitty stand. I'd add that the Minoura is a lot better than I'd expected, but nothing compares to a heavy, solid, well-engineered and well-designed truing stand attached to a heavy base. Turns wheelbuilding truing into a religious experience (without the dogma, economic exploitation or mass killings).

Buggered threads on the fork steerer shouldn't affect the stem. The stem only interacts with the inside (unthreaded) part of the steerer.

Might be a daft suggestion, but what about trying to attack the stuck stem from the other end. The forks will have a hole in the crown that matches up where it meets the steerer. You could stick something in that hold and get your big bommie knocker out and hit the mofo in the correct direction - ie upwards. Just be careful not to damage the fork legs.

I think it's a lovely frame, 'specially with that sexy chrome rear end, and it's definitely worth turning into a useable bike. If I was in London, I'd take it off your hands and give it a good thrashing.

Correct re walking in MTB shoes vs road. Road shoes look kinda dorky too.

Anodizing wears and looks naff. And when it's looking pristine it's screaming "steal me".

Adding new links to a worn chain could result in problems. Depends on how worn the old one is. Maybe better to get a new chain. And +1 re 42 to 46 being a big jump.

I know this is a million year old post, but chanced on it cos looking at Peugeot Elan myself. Re your prospective bike, I think the front forks look bent. Use with caution, or better, not at all.

@Jamiejay - WD40 is mainly a solvent - it removes all the oil and then deposits a very thin layer. It's not good for a chain, particularly the insides. Sheldon would not approve.

Here's the tool you need to measure rim thickness. I bought one of these about a year ago and have used it on a dozen wheels already. Anything above 0.75mm is fine in the older rims. Some of the newer lightweights start off even thinner than this!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Prestige-spring-measuring-caliper-jewellers-gem-stone-bead-diamonds-15mm-New-/330616452190

Has anyone here tried using a motor mechanics stethoscope? . I've seen them on ebay for way less than £10 inc postage. May get one myself...

Before you cut the spoke, just make sure it'll be easy to thread in a new spoke. If it's a back wheel, you may have to remove the freewheel/cassette in order to remove the old spoke and thread the new. If that is the case, it's worth spending more time to free up the spoke/nipple, enabling you to reuse them both.

Don't forget to keep both sections of the spoke if you cut it so you can measure it and reorder a new one (mebbe safer to take the two bits to the bike shop so they can do the measuring).

Instead of using the pliers to cut the spoke, you could use them to hold the spoke and prevent it from turning while you loosen the spoke nipple.

Best if you have a spoke key that grips four sides of the nipple rather than just three - it's less likely to round off the nipple flats.

Might be worth tapping the spoke with eg a screwdriver just where it enters the nipple - that'll help free it up.

Good luck.