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That is in line with what I thought, and my consideration of the carradice zipped roll (which I think hangs lower, but I have stuggles to find pictures on a drop handlebar bike) I may also look (for the price) at
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/100-bike-handlebar-bag-25l-id_8383692.html
or even
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/junior-front-bag-pink-id_8380516.html
Both of which look as if they could give a couple of extra litres space.

I take it your suggestion also just hangs below the bars? Do you have any issue using the tops?

Now new Tiagra is internally routed there is also the option of new shifters. First step probably to see how much I can get in the SWR tout.

Anyone experience of using handlebar bags with externally routed shifters (I have Tiagra 10-speed). Looking at photos, the clickfix style boxier bags look like they may project too much, but I am wondering about using a carradice zipped roll or similar.

Planning on a light/credit card tour or two this year, ~week long but staying indoors, happy to go for 1 bike outfit and 1 evening outfit. Have a Carradice SQR slim (~16 litres) which I use for cummuting and can use, but am considering if I will need a little more space/accessibility and if so whether to go for handlebar bag, in particular for stuff needed in the day (+ stem/small frame bag if it's not enough, though would like to keep access to 2x750ml bottles), or to get a rear pannier rack and 2 small panniers(http://www.carradice.co.uk/ranges/carradry/carradry-front-universal-panniers-old-design) then likely ditching the SQR slim. Bike (Genesis Vapour Disc) has rear pannier mounts but ~no chance of using front pannier rack.

High5 zero cherry and orange tastes good to me, have also been using electrolyte powder from myprotein with/without a splash of orange juice (lemon juice likely also would work well)

Think it's more likely to be the tube, or where it engages with the movement.

Some googling suggests crown, stem and indeed movement could be had for not much more than 20 quid (parts) however I suspect that i may be unlikely to find anyone who will do it for less than about 60.

I will try and get a quote, but given the watch was only about 120 it might be new watch time (or to give fixing it a go myself).

Perhaps something automatic/solar powered/a bit more expensive which will either last longer (this one has only made about 5 years) or to make fixing/servicing a more attractive proposition. Disposable culture sucks.

Likely cost of getting a crown fixed on an inexpensive but liked (by me) Seiko. Screw thread seems not to be engaging so it pops out and in with little provocation.

Have you received it? Got an extra that I like for my commuter. Looking for a saddle for the 'best' bike weighing up between buying a dynamic, I have one on trial, seems great for me, but I haven't tried many other saddles, other than knowing that I want/need something relatively firm and with a relatively large cut out.

Other suggestions welcomed, anyone able to comment on the carved brooks cambiums, or the selle italia SLR superflow?

Some knock off full carbon ones available on ebay purporting to be the real thing and certainly look similar so could be worth a try. Guessing the listing might not last given the blatant pretence.

I suspect sending to carradice (if they would do it) likely the best option, but am guessing that might involve more money than buying a new carradice bag.

I have had similar 'noise' after riding through puddles, for me it was that one side of the caliper was very close to rotor. Although I had pads aligned so they weren't catching, crud that was getting onto on the caliper from puddles/being thrown off the pads/rotor, on the side the rotor was entering was catching/making the noise, rather than anything on the pads. Shifting the caliper over a bit helped. Hope this makes sense.

Borrowing these two handlebar bags from my dad for a possible mini tour which I quite like, albeit they could do with a bit of a tide (replace elastic/velcro). However they are designed to clip on to the decaleur type thing. However this isn't designed for os 31.8mm stems/bars, any ideas for making/hacking something similar? Was considering trying to get hold of some aluminium/steel rod of similar dimension and (hand?) bend it?

Other thoughts were to use http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/201814164307?lpid=122&chn=ps&adgroupid=40208487538&rlsatarget=pla-470338995312&adtype=pla&poi=&googleloc=9046398&device=c&campaignid=738085096&crdt=0

or see if carradice would fit a klick-fit mount to them?

For interest, bought a Castelli Perfotto (amazing) in XL (possibly could fit L) and some sort of Gore Thermo Jersey in L (possibly could fit M), both with the set in sleeve style and no garrotted armpits. Hope this is useful for someone else.

If people think the prices are particularly out let me know.

Happy to throw in postage at these prices if that increases interest?
£100 rear wheel, rotor, inner tube, dead tyre
£140 + bare front wheel £10 extra per front wheel item (rotor/skewer/tyre)
£165 with 'fully loaded' front wheel
£175 and with a brand new 32c randonneur pro for the rear

Would you want the cl rotor, shimano skewer, tyre and tube (good condition 32c randonneur pro)?

Switching front wheel means adjusting disc brake due to different hub/rotor spacing so not keen enough to give super cheap price.

£140 with bare front wheel £10 extra per front wheel item
£165 with 'fully loaded' front wheel
£175 and with a brand new 32c randonneur pro for the rear
plus postage (I would guess ~£15 possible a little less if only rear wheel)

Taken off my pompetamine when I went SS about a year ago, sat in shed since so time to move it on. Ideal for commuting, not enough hills on my commute to justify.

Probably done ~2-3000 miles and had an oil bath twice in this time, while a little bit of a pain to set up it was trouble free for me. Had an oil bath shortly before I stopped using it but as its been sat a while so may need a service/oil bath to run completely drag free (plenty of videos on youtube, you will hate the circlip).

Will come with free inner tube and near dead randonneur pro 32c tire. 700c wheel, 135mm spacing (can double check if necessary).

Also have the necessary non turn washers for horizontal dropouts (you can buy the kit if you need for vertical dropouts), the 8 speed shifter, the special cable fixing nut and a (pretty certain it's) 160mm centrelock rotor.

See album for pictures of everything.

https://goo.gl/photos/hYLp1fy6kcN4ZU5QA

£100 plus postage method of your choice or pick up from Nottingham, discounts if you don't want it all.

I do have the matching front wheel and rotor that I could potentially be persuaded to part with for an appropriate price if it means the difference between a sale or not.

@t.o. Set in definitely seems better for me, or just coincidence that brands that choose set in also have better cut, thanks for adding some words to my vocab!

@Currid if anything you highlight my disparity to the normal cyclist, I need (at least) Large in Castelli to get my arms to fit in. Gore are the other option the seem to fit ~in my proportions though are baggier than I would like in the body. I will check out Giordana if/when I can. Large shoulders are due to rock climbing, finger injury is threatening that hobby for the immediate future so maybe my shoulders will wither and this problem will go away...

Thanks @sacredhart for noticing my accidental post before completion.

Wondering if anyone else struggles finding jerseys with armholes big enough to fit their shoulders in without underarm discomfort/chafing, without the jersey then flapping in the wind.

I am 6ft 72kgs with a 38" chest so slight but am forever having to send jerseys back, any brand recommendations out there to help (particularly for a winter jersey) ironically castelli seem one of the better brands for me (perhaps time to try the perfotto) as do any (such as most of the castelli's) where the sleeves are attached by a seam that goes round the shoulder rather than up to the neck (does this make sense, anyone know what the difference in the arm attachments is called).

Might take advantage of this, got an extra on my commuter, what would be the closest shape posher/less padded option, the composit?

If slammed forwards then I imagine you may face a similar issue? Possibly even necessitating splitting/joing chain in situ?

@svendhöek good to know I have an Allen key skewer so it would be inside, if I meet a friendly machinist in the uni I may set them the challenge. Yeah no worries about 1mm I was referring to the other options

@drøn I have tried this, think I might of managed with an old chain but not on general

Which limit? If you have no room to play with how do you get enough slack in the system to decouple/unship chain?

Some incredible hacking skills, likely beyond me, though I could consider approaching some of the workshops in the uni I work at. Not super in to the idea of re cold setting my frame

I think I see how your second proposed solution works in terms of aligning the caliper to the wheel. Once set in position am I right in saying that you would need to take out the skewer completely to get the wheel out (unless you make it open ended as suggested).

Likely not, the problem caused by a combination of things, I have 'picked' a chain length which puts my wheel in a sensible place in the drop outs, with my current cogs one link either way puts it very close to either end of the drop out (could maybe be helped by a half link/different cog combo). The caliper is then positioned as best I can to be optimal for the rotor and the brakes set up, somewhat fiddly with bb7s but in my experience then don't need touching, other than to dial in the pads.

The problem comes when, for example it is new chain time, with my set up (and a kmc chain) I can't move the wheel far enough forward to get the chain off/decouple the magic link (perhaps could be helped by a different chain/magic link) without fouling the caliper, hence I have to loosen the caliper, necessitating my re-setting up the brakes. I suspect your TRP (typo?) calipers have a design, coupled with your chain length and chain choice such that you have enough wriggle room to do this.

Worth knowing for if I ever consider a different caliper.

Indeed the slippery slope is so tempting, do something fun with/sell the pomp, downgrade genesis to ss commuter with ebb, new nice bike, default on mortgage.

All look good/better than what I am facing with the pompetamine commuter, hopefully having sorted a new chain it should not require touching for at least another 6 months. On the plus side I have decided to stop commuting with a tool kit as I am not going to be doing this roadside.

Considering options to get to a better situation, cheapest is perhaps ditching the rear brake and running a fixed hub (never tried fixed so could be fun, Nottingham is however quite hilly in places, though not my commute), more expensive being to have new drop outs welded in (~£100 cost similar to pomp frame price, seems a bit mad) or new frame/bike, either the commuter or downgrade my nice bike to ss (with an ebb) and buy a new 'best' bike...I suspect I will just persevere, luckily I have been very lucky with punctures/vittoria randonneurs are amazing?

Thanks for the feedback I am fairly confident they are a sram flat bat road brake compatible lever and road bb7s. We will see what the prognosis is when I drop the genesis in tomorrow, having had some time to mull it over I think I have decided to (if necessary) replace hayes caliper with hy/rd, depending on funds, possibly just one placed at the front and move the working front caliper to the rear, with potential eventual replacements with another hy/rd or full hydraulic set up.

This also influenced by the pain I also experienced yesterday (not for the first time) changing the chain on my pomp, which involves resetting up the disc brake caliper every time I touch the rear wheel (see pompino thread) as such if I spend any money on the pomp it may well be to try and resolve this issue (v brake/fixed on a flipped disc hub at the rear would seem cheapest, new dropouts/ebb/frame more expensive option)