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Can you punch the screws back in?

Keep reading it. It eventually seeps in.

I think that’s what I was describing; scrim tape, then the usual bonding for the rough bits and finish coat after. Did that here three years ago and it’s still perfect.

At least your ceilings aren't falling down like mine were. The bad cracks can br scrim taped before plastering which usually holds things together.

Haha. Yeah, Daniels, AKA SeikoBoy.

Get a headband (metal ring) for your loupe.

Excellent work.

Top photo: just finishing plaster. Bottom photo needs either bonding plaster it it’s an internal wall or sand/cement if it’s an external wall, finished off with some finishing plaster for the top coat.

Ah, now those earlier push-to-set date movements are slightly different. I worked on an Omega Cal 752 which has the same type of date setting.

I can’t find a diagram of how the keyless works look for that movement, but in general, lack of “positive action” between the crown positions is usually down to a faulty “set lever spring” aka “bolt spring” aka lots of other names.....

On the attached diagram it is the “detent spring”. It is only accessible underneath the dial.

Not all keyless works are the same, but this is the most common design. On around 50% of second hand English-made Smiths, this spring is snapped!

To make one, just copy the original. So, three pieces of sheet metal, one upper piece slotted to allow adjustment. I can measure the thickness if you like. Brass would do. But personally I’d just buy one.

In case you need the other Bergeon part, here’s one that’s misspelled:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323203260061

Bargain crystal lift. Did you get the little platform for it? Can make one if not.

Use hard (silver) solder for the brass case repair. Make sure it’s meticulously clean before going at it. An ultrasonic will help to get into any cracks.

Might be a Felsa movement.

The dial will clean up with citric acid, but you’ll have no text left.

Only buy “Made In England” and 15+ jewels.

I’m not sure what exactly resonates. The seconds hand moves each time the pallet lever “beats” from side-to-side, so thy both move at the same time. Sometimes you can hear a “boing” which I wondered might be the balance spring, but you may have a point about the seconds hand. I guess the only way to know would be to remove it.

Spotted on eBay.

Some movements are louder than others, and some ping. They tend to be louder when they are running with good amplitude which can be a good sign. Smiths lever escarpments are loud.

Acrylic should be ok. I used Leyland acrylic eggshell around four years ago. Gets condensation but looks as good as new.

Yes! I’m in tomorrow daytime. Then nightshifts Fri-Fri.

The Omega Geneve tender to be the lower emnd of what they sold, but still very high quality. May have alos appeared with "Semaster" on the dial. Probably Cal 601 if manual-wind or Cal 552 if automatic.

I usually tighten very slightly at a time, and monitor for leakage. London water self-seals to some extent, but you’ll also find that expansion/contraction will affect the joint in use, so may need to re-tighten. As Airhead says, your olive could be worn out, but I often find that you can tighten a little further, presuming someone else hasn’t already done this.

Those Speedmaster Reduced watches use a standard automatic movement with a chronograph module bolted on. That’s why the pushers don’t line up with the crown when you look at the side.

Nothing wrong with that, but they can be problematic to service, from what I’ve heard. If I were buying one, I’d want a bracelet and to be paying around the £1k mark.

Open the back and check if the ratchet wheel is turning as you rotate the crown. If it is, then it’s likely a faulty mainspring.

Likely an enamel dial. There’s an article about it in my latest BHI magazine. It’s entirely designed from scratch.

Trying to resurrect thread from Baselworld by reposting Frodsham: