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Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated.

@Airhead Do you have a recommendation for a filler for a Victorian timber front door? I have a few holes and small gaps to fill.

Don’t want to use two-part wood filler as it’s too brittle and will crack over time. I do have some Red Devil Onetime which I’ve only ever used for cracked plasterwork which suffers from movement.

Thanks.

The dial looks very similar to some 50’s / 60’s IWCs, in particular the dot minute markers. The hands are almost certainly gold.

Oh, that is outstanding. I love it. You’ve got those late-60’s details like the seconds hand and dial markers, but with a 50’s style case.

This model is very interesting because I believe that the MoD actually trialled using it as a “Diving Supervisors Watch”. Early versions were prototypes which shared parts with the Lemania Diving Supervisor.

Might be worth looking on Cousins website.

Thanks all for the kind messages. I'll just carry on as normal which is one day a week at the watch school doing servicing, and adding to my collection which is a bit out of control. I think it would be a cool thing to do as a job when retired, but that's 30+ years away.

Passed my BHI diploma after two years of night school and a hell of a lot of work at home in my spare time.

I don't see why not. I have something similar for my kitchen, but I run it off the sockets ring.

Here’s an IWC that you don’t see too often.

The seconds hand you can just press on. Usually come off due to a strong knock. Should be a 15 minute job for a watchmaker.

Unless there’s anything else wrong with it.

You’d have to ask your water board (Thames?). Either they’ll do it, or you can do yourself and get them to certify it’s ok.

We were possibly going to have to do it, but got away without moving ours.

You can have it moved.

Yes, that's fixable.

Can you get a caliper measurement of the pusher button width and thread width of the pusher rod?

Hole (collet) size.

I'd be slightly cautious with watches like these as they tend to pack quite a lot of Radium in them. That, and I'm not sure why someone would want to own a Nazi watch when you can buy an IWC or JLC RAF navigator's watch which is also a more suitable size.

Sorry if it's a pea, but I've not been keeping up with this thread recently.

Looks like Thumb Guy and his dad.

Yes, EOL indication kicks in when battery voltage hits a certain threshold. What type of case back is on that watch?

Bezel came with the case. So did the crystal actually. That as a whole came from New Zealand (“watchco”).

They appear on eBay from time to time. And sometimes on the Omega forums as second-hand.

Since they are all service parts (except for the movement), it’s not what I’d call a frankenwatch, personally. You can buy an ex-SM300 movement if you wish to have every part legitimately an SM300.

A lot of the older SM300s are fitted with service replacement parts, so it all becomes a bit of a grey area.

Here’s my SM300 parts build. It cost £1200 in parts (when they used to be cheaper) and around £200 for the movement. They sell complete for around £2500.

*I need to polish the crystal.

They have everything except the Cal 565 for the date model, or the Cal 552 for non date. The latter is possibly more desirable and easier to work on.

I built mine myself.

Yes, of course. You can use the timegrapher at the same time to observe the effects. I’m away for a funeral in Edinburgh tomorrow, but back on Wednesday. Still in Leytonstone near the Heathcoate Arms.

That is utterly shocking. I’d be asking them to pay for the second repair (and they must be pretty bad too).

I’d have brushed those links to remove the marks for free for you. It doesn’t take too long.

It's a minute wheel for a striking clock. The blue post screws onto the main plate. The wheel carries the minute hand and also triggers the striking mechanism via the steel pin which is riveted to it.