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Frame has BB30 shell so I use BEER components EBB. Expensive but worth it. Phil Wood bearings are holding up great. Still spinning nicely.

If you buy though - Make sure to buy extra "bearing caps" as they break fairly easily. Replacement bearings is not bad idea either. Remember spacer kit for SRAM chainsets.

And thanks!

Lets get this thread going again.

Got a pair of 3T Ergoterra bars for this season. 44.5cm c-c so a lot width. Nice transition too and decent weight.

Thats not a Koga.

Sintered or organic pads? No matter what you do to them I've always found organic pads can get destroyed by grit in a single ride in bad weather.

Sintered.

Top tip regarding pad life: You should be able to harden you pads by overheating them.
A guy who's in the industry told me a story about pro's hanging on to cars rubbin' their brakes at 50kph to overheat and harden the pads.

I finished my own sscx in the spring and rode a lot of dry rides with steep asfalt downhills as a part of it (with road tires) and it must have done something because I haven't changed my pads in a year and a half.

The left frontpad has just reach the point where it needs to be changed, and I've ridden regularly (2-3 a week in the season) in mud (and on occasions in sandy conditions).

Try it out. It might help.

Read a lot about it on velocepuke and other forums. Only in serious off camber sections it will be a problem. But I will be much faster out of corners and that does it for me. Also I never bunny hop barriers. I am a runner. My pomp was so slow. I intend this frame for racing Cx only. I will build myself a 29+ for forrest rides.

Acceleration out of wide grippy corners needs a high bottom bracket too. Thats fairly common in the early season when the grass roots are still tough.

Lol

So outragious its a little cool.
http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Bikerumor-Random-Parts-Taipei-Show-14-15.jpg

Sweet jebus!

Excellent value on that build.

Inside the Team Sky service course Part 1 - Geraint Thomas - YouTube

Go(a)t milk?

As a female cow I feel offended by this.

woodz, you need to work out what the geometry consequences are. Like are the axle-crown measurement comparable and what will the new trail be?

Hulsroy switched to a carbon fork on his pompino but it made it more sluggish as the a-c was far longer on the new fork thereby increasing his trail.

A lighter bike is always nice, and the carbon forks will most likely be stiffer as well.

This is not the front suspension cyclocross thread. Jetski, make a current project thread. :)

Performance wise no, price wise no, maintenance maybe for some.

Rattle? TrackIsNotEvenThatSlack.

Also, if it creaks its more likely a chainline issue.

Except it does created those creaking noise when there's too much gap between the chain and the cassette.

I don't think I know what you mean?

As mentioned:

3/32 chainring run 100% problemfree with 1/8 chain and cog. AND is easier to get and replace.

Narrow wide chainrings are pointless if you don't use a springloaded chaintensioner.

48t is not for SSCX racing. 42t and below is more ideal.

Any reason for 1/8" chain?

No need for steel. 2-3 times as heavy and more expensive. Alu is cheap as.

http://www.bike24.de/1.php?content=8;navigation=1;menu=1000,4,122;product=31752

Innerrings are often pretty good singlespeed chainrings. They have tall teeth and most often no ramps or chaincatchers which is what you want.

I assumed that it's not as powerful as a seatstay mounted caliper?

Unless you're runing hydraulics cable routing has to go by the downtube. The cable ends up collecting additional mud at the cranks and get a little in the way when/if you lift your bike by the downtube.
Some frames also have problems clearing the heels on the back stroke. I personally have experienced "adjusting" my rear brake while riding. Its rare but it has happened.