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Anyone used a cut-to-size / order online ply seller who are comfortable doing more complex shapes, occluded cuts etc... and good with communication?

I'm probably gonna want the opinion of an engineer anyway as the roof beam bears on that wall, had a guy spec the wall build up for a room above when we removed a last little bit of chimney stack remaining so I'll get him over again. Builder thought his design was overkill but I'd rather trust the opinion of the surveyor!

No varnish afaik. The first is actually the top surface so hand drips etc, and the lighting makes it look especially bad, but that's the worst bit where the 2 part filler has trapped water behind it and bought back the rot.

Stone inset in wood is the dream. Half surprised that's not a more standard solution. Will investigate more.

Does seem like it would be a token gesture at best. I guess as long as his mum keeps testing clear and he seems ok in himself we'll be alright sending him off to nursery? Can't actually find mention of it in the nursery's policy now.

The gardening or the covid? Woke up with a nagging headache... dehydration is a bitch. Felt alright by 4ish, still testing strongly positive. Didn't manage much productive though my energy is usually on a low ebb in this heat.

Any tips on LFTing a 1 year old?

It's a bit of a murky world from where I'm standing. . Gov says contact your LPA. Local planning site says this:

🤷‍♂️

Edit: email sent to local building control, Will see what they reckon.

Getting to the point where I want to be lining up a builder for this, probably early next year. I want to swap the window or for french doors or similar. This will require gaining a bit of head height as top of the window is only at 1930 from FFL currently, hoping this can be done with use of a cavity wall lintel to replace the standard one I assume it's in there currently.

Who do I need to talk to before builders? Planning department, structural engineers, building control? Can't imagine it's the kind of thing where I can just let the builder crack on without a plan.

Thanks for the comprehensive reply.

My insurmountable problem with this top seems to be that it's been cut flush/slightly shy of the sink edge, no overhang or drip bead so silicon required, which seems to be a point at which the moisture is retained and the rot sets in. I also patched up a little bit with 2pac filler previously which seems not to have worked as it's just allowed water ingress around it and started to open up and root again.

I feel like the best solution is probably a new wood top cut with a bigger overhang and drip bead fitted without silicon, which is a compromise to the maintenance and finishing that'll bring, but otherwise means mismatching tops with the rest of the kitchen (where wood works just fine) or replacing the whole lot with stone/Corian etc. which I don't have the budget for. I guess the advantage would be that I could potentially buy and cut it ahead of time and spend a few weeks really going to town on the sanding and oiling.

I also hate the sink for it's tiny strainer trap but I don't think there's much that can be done about that without a larger remodel of the area.

Well I was still feeling ok-ish by lunchtime so attempted some 'gardening' (actually breaking up concrete with an SDS) because fucked if I was going to let another dry weekend get away without doing it and it's not like I can do much else. A couple of moments leaning up against a fence post but that's probably not unusual tbh.

Still feel right enough to have a couple of beers so either this is shortest lived case ever or I've just lined myself up for a world of pain tomorrow.

Same here, positive test yesterday, was absolutely floored, in bed most of the day. Feel not too horrendous today. Hoping it carries on in that trajectory.

Yeah not my choice but not sure how we fix it without at least a small remodel (=£), especially as Wren don't make it easy to buy small bits. *

Actually maybe it could be done but might look awkward. New wood with drip ledge would seem the easiest choice. Doesn't solve the problem of people dripping their wet hands around the taps and not drying it up though.

Visited an Airbnb the other week with what liked like a very new kitchen and the wood tops were already going grey around the taps.

*Actually seems you can order doors on their site now, that opens up some options.

Are hardwood tops more resistant to rot? Probably gonna have to replace my worktop around my sink at some point as it's not in a good way, exacerbated by the fact it's cut to close to the Belfast sink with nothing to stop drops other than some manky silicon.

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/359297/?offset=725#comment16536219

I think there's been some washing machine chat in there

Ooh I love a katu. Someone on the Facebook group was selling an electric version recently, very tempted but will probably go for a Radrunner eventually.

Yeah possibly pre-cast edgings and leveling compound + drainage holes would be the way to go, although probably not considerably less effort. The surface is rough as, so it needs leveling with something, figured using grano kills two birds with one stone.

Yeah if starting from dirt, but fucked if I'm smashing up and carrying out more concrete through my house (no access). A cursory Google suggest it's ok, but obviously needs to drain hence the screed and Ako.

Veneer bonded to the the inside face maybe?

FFS, I appear to have lost the key to my hamax bracket before I've even used it. Any way of jimmying this open? It appears to be locked by default.

Currently working towards screeding this patio slab for a padded fake grass section. I know that will get me some hate on here but I want a soft/safe surface for kids to play on and it's hardly an epitome of biodiversity at the moment. The rest of the garden will be getting a lot of plants eventually.

Anyway, current plan is to build formwork around and sure up a couple of the sides with vertical faces in reinforced grano concrete, and screed with the grano at the same time. The nearside will be one face of a flush trough water feature and the LHS will be exposed where the path will slope down to get 150mm below dpm. Currently the slab is level with dpm but there's a gap between it and the house so an Ako drain will be going in to carry rainwater from the downpipe on the right to the drains. Thinking of using OSB with floor protection sheets tacked on for the shuttering to get a decent finish to the sides at lower cost than proper phonelic ply.

Any thoughts/ideas on this approach?

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Would love to see more process pics of the cupboards. Was it your first time doing that kind of thing?

Scaffolders should be able to set up a platform above the porch. It'll need to bear the weight of it but just make sure they put something down to spread the load.

Nice one. I might try and use these chunky brackets I have but good to have a backup when I realise how hard the rocks I'm drilling in to are.

When I did ours I went into the top of the wall to save some space. I used posts with threaded bolt already mounted in the base although this was just convenient as it's easy enough to fix threaded rod into posts.

Dredging this post to ask how you would fix the threaded rod if they weren't already done? I could potentially get a chippy round the corner to drill some holes all the way through as mine will only be about 600mm but is an access hole in the side to tighten a nut usual method, or threaded insert a better bet?

LKLM from AliExpress as a bit of a punt?

This

or this