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One of the best gigs I ever went to was Beastie Boys at Brixton Academy about 5 years ago.

RIP MCA.

That was a great gig.
Sweaty suits.
A good memory.

If you've not previously done so it might be worth experimenting with your cleats further behind the ball of the foot.

For me I found it encouraged dipping of the heals, sitting further back in the saddle and eventually what feels like a much smoother, stronger pedal stroke.

You might need to saddle a couple of mm if you do this.

Have you just moved them back to the limit of the original mounting bolt holes?
I've read some inter-net chatter of people mounting their cleats in a new position (new bolt holes) under the arch of the foot.
Best thing since sliced bread - or not depending on what you read.

I've just moved my Look cleats all the way back- mostly to experiment with relieving numb feet. Too early to say yet, I only got to ride 50 miles on Sunday -but no real numbness.

They missed the seat tube.
Slack.

i got it on fine on my bike, you just need to apply even tension

Same here.
I find wrapping bars one of those Zen kind of jobs.
On my Cougar I got the levers in the right place then removed them from the clamps, then taped the bars. When you get it right it looks good.
I've been using standard/smooth Fizik tape for a good 7 years now (I had white tape on track drops with a cross lever painted white!) cause it's really comfortable and looks good. I've only found it slippy if I've ridden without mitts - which is onl going to be down the corner shop anyway....

Don't like it one bit, looks like something the Wehrmacht would use!

In a good way

Anyone have any 1st hand experience with these?
My rear caliper is sticking/dragging.

These aren't your average single pivots
There are exploded diagrams here;
http://www.tearsforgears.com/2008/12/mavic-451suntour-superbe-prodia-compe.html

I tried adjusting yesterday but it's still ending up with one pad or the other rubbing the rim.
I'm going to dis-assemble the whole thing and work out which bit does what- unless I can get some expert advice.

Jeremy, who's blog the link is to doesn't seem to be checking in there to often these days and I want to get this sorted.

Cheers,

Some bits of 2nd generation MAVIC with the headset, Starfish cranks and perhaps the handlebars, but other than that I would question whether any of the other components are MAVIC, although the quality of the piccie does inhibit identification to some degree.

Hubs, seat-post, headset, bars and Cranks are all Mavic from the late 80's early 90's
The stem is earlier but still Mavic.

Rims ironically look to be H+Son.
So not Tout Mavic. Need different chainring. some better pics in current projects.

I haz some wheels built on those hubs Mmmmmavic

That wasn't funny in the other thread either.

In your opinion.

Its a reposted tweet in response to some EDL nonsense, did you see the article?
http://www.guardian.co.uk/commentisfree/2012/apr/16/twitter-users-turned-on-english-defence-league

I had it copied to my clipboard from posting here and I thought it was funny -although out of context on the other thread.

Shit joke.

:-p

sun's out.
stop moaning

The weather in Britain is always Sunni or Shi'ite.
#CreepingSharia

Also;
The weather in Britain is always Sunni or Shi'ite. #CreepingSharia

:)))))

"he's jumped in the ear, taken the catch, and whilst still in the ear had the presence of mind to..."
Still can't see the ear.

I'm half way through a job for which I can only use paintstripper.
Due to Brussels banning the active ingredient in paintstripper last year Di-Chlorowhatsit the new formulas won't work on the Victorian paint and varnish I'm halfway through removing from a banister.

Anyone within 10 miles of Lewisham have some pre-change stripper (niche) for beers or £?

Help a brother out?

French madness;

http://www.flickr.com/photos/steel-is-real/3012462812/

slow typing

Saddle yes, post is from Mavic group though, is rare as fuck, beautifully made and also just looks right to me.
Stick a first model Flite on it in black
I would go for a later Mavic stem (that one is earlier than headset and cranks) and a chainring without the cut-out web things.
All these Tout Mavic bikes are coming out of the woodwork now....

I like.

Merlin is very nice.
Every time I see open 4CD rims I get mad.
I should have used them on my Cougar - they look sexy.

interesting, I wish I knew more about fonts or I should say typefaces. What works best for different applications. It's a complex science.

Which used to be an art....

Graphos will know - I've forgotten his name - he's a famous 'post computer design' typographer. I heard an interview with him where he was discussing the need for irregularity in type - especially now everything is laid out on a computer using digital fonts.
Maybe human eyes will get used to hard sterility and relentlessly clean edges but in the meantime we need a bit of the hand-made.

I used to make flyers with Letraset when you could buy sheets of the stuff as all the Graphic design firms went digital. Such cool stuff to fuck around with.

http://fontfeed.com/archives/font-or-typeface/

Font is to typeface, as CD is to music apparantly

Thank you. So most people do use it incorrectly. my Mum was a graphic/commercial artist in the days of kerning and she always calls it a typeface....

What is the difference between a font and a typeface? Is it just a generational nomenclature thing?

^ I'm sure it depends on what type of paint you're trying to remove.
Might work on Acrylics and some modern oil based, didn't touch the lead based paint.
I painted a litre of the new formula gear on, rode home, ate lunch, cycled back to the job. No dice.
Actually worse than before because of shellac based gloop which won't wash off.
Apparently it makes a good salad dressing....

Balls.

Any one have any old formula Nitromors/Strypit or any paint stripper that actually fucking works? I have ££
Brussels have fucked it by outlawing the ingredient that actually strips the paint.
I'm half way through a job which can't be done another way, the new formula stuff has succeeded in melting the shellac, combining with it and then turned into an insoluble gloop.

Arggh.

PLZ?

Sun is shining, it's not windy, I've finished my quotes/paperwork. I'm off for a fucking ride.
If it was you that I told I'd come and finish off your banister repair today, sorry, I lied.

Dammit and absurdbird, seeing as I got such a great response the other day I just wanted to check something with you before I move on. Below is a pic of my first aquapanel job which I did yesterday. Didn't do the whole bathroom, but had to box in some pipes and more. I am quite pleased with it, but that is not to say its 100% perfect.

My questions:

1) There are a few minor gaps here and there as the walls aren't perfectly straight plus that the board crumbled a bit around some of the screws. No gaps are wider than a millimeter and none are longer than a few centimeters (the picture shows the worst area). Is this a big problem?

2) When I set it up I generously filled these little indents, cracks and gaps with sealant (the one that came with the board) but would plaster have been better? I need to go over them a second time so it's the choice between more sealant or moving onto plaster.

3) Lastly, will there be issues with the plaster not sticking properly to where the sealant is? It feels very rubbery? I suppose I could cover all the sealant patches with the joint tape that came with the boards if that helps.

What is the final finish of the wall going to be? Plaster and paint or tile?

1) I would use self adhesive glass fibre scrim tape on all joints as a matter of course, this will help the plaster bridge any gaps and if adjoining panels move relative to each other it should help reduce any cracking.

2) Just Plaster it already

3) With the scrim tape you shouldn't have any problem with the plaster sticking you will props find that the plaster on top of the sealant will dry/set up more slowly than elsewhere (no suck) but if you're patient and allow everything to set up before troweling off and/or use 2 coats of multifinish you should still be able to get it smooth as a baby's bottom.

The only hubs I've had which have a distinct 'right way round' are C-Record, which have counterbores for the spoke heads at alternate holes on the outside of the flange. That does force you to build a particular way round, and because the handedness of most rims opposes it you end up with either outbound pulling spokes or a trapped valve. Apart from the rear drive side argument enumerated above, and maybe the brake side of disc brake wheels for the same reason, there is no reason to favour one method over the other. Incidentally, dish has nothing to do with it, except that it's dish that puts the rear dérailleur cage so close to the drive side spokes in the first place.

Aren't those counter bores to relieve stress on the bend of the spoke? -so the spoke head actually goes on the other side of the flange?
Sounds like the spoke holes on Mavic hubs
http://www.sterba-bike.cz/media/produkty/276/par-mtb-naboju-mavic-276-5.jpg