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Didn't realise they were in-line jobs- they might be a really good solution. Thanks. If they're on a curved section of cable will they give the cable a bend rather than curve?
SJS also have a noodle with adjuster and a cable hanger (looks shit though)

Where would that fit?
Levers look like this;
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RRTevH27VwQ/TrqTtZA7uxI/AAAAAAAAGH4/EPWF-Slr0Yk/s1600/levier-Mafac.jpg

Cables run inside the bars until the bend where they come out of a drilled hole.

Neither.

Mafac inverse.

I was thinking of using a brake noodle but still no adjustability. I'll try and find the dia Compe hanger -bit ugly though.

Ah that Israeli guy. I got some Mafac braze on mounts from him a few years ago when he was prototyping them I used to be on the same bike nerd forum as him.
Amir something or other. I'll check it out cheers.

^ ha. You just reminded me I've got one of those Dia Compe hangers in a parts box somewhere must go and rummage.
^^ that's pretty much what I have - came with the Mafac brakes I have. Did you find a ferrule that fits in the little slot/hole?
I might get an old barrel adjuster and see if I can grind it down and enlarge the hole to get it to work.

Putting the caliper on the drive side seems like the obvious solution. In fact putting it on the NDS seems as daft as French Bb threading -why did that ever seem a good idea?
Of course this is the first time it's ever occurred to me - I've never owned a disk brake bike.

^ this.

I'd use sash cramps too.
But needs must when the devil drives.

Or something.

I use ratchet straps all the time for awkward clamping jobs though, glueing up large mitred boxes frinstance.

Nice nomenclature,
Muntin.

You probably could glue it while clamping it with ratchet straps. Put a doubled up rubble sack or something under the straps to let them slip to get even squeeze on both sides.

I'll take the wheels pending better pics.
Tubs included, yes?

Dibs on wheels if you split.

What do those bits sticking out of the front hub do?

They're to transport your good wheels to the race when you cycle there.
Axles clamp onto slots tie the rims together at the top with a strap.

Driving to the track?>>>>>>>>>>

That's good to hear I was thinking of getting one instead of the Mafac on my town bike.

On the subject of barrel adjusters this is probably a good thread on which to ask; is there a barrel adjuster that will work with a Mafac front hanger or is there an available hanger with an adjuster. Needs to be chromed steel plate though not chunky ally -its for a classic build.

You'll definitely need a structural engineers report -if you're making an opening wider than a doorway you'll need steel(s) as the weight of the back of the house and half the roof (probably are transferred through that wall.

It's only a single story extension to a semi detached house. The extension is only ours next door don't have one joined to ours. It's basically the wall between them which would need taking out.

The wall between which, the original building and the extension?

Oh ok, I was thinking of the wrong project.
Is it a brick wall, is it on the top floor? If so does the roof span across that wall or sit on it?

Was this the wall that holds up the back of a house?

First step is to get a structural engineers report so the builders know the scope of work and so any quotes you're comparing are on the same spec.

FYI, Illy coffee can = .3 mm, so perfect for the more common 25.4 > 26 mm shim.
I got away with one and a half wraps -stupid Cinelli.

^Thanks, something like that is plan B. I was hoping to do it today, an Illy coffee can or one of those Purdeys bottles?

shim for 25.4 bars in 26.4 stem?
anyone found a commonly available aluminium thing that is .5mm thick?

Not such good braking from the hoods tho' I like the look and simplicity of non-aero levers but I like to be able to brake from the hoods.

I don't see why you'd need to compensate for the drop. This would assume that a frame was designed for a very specific saddle height. The difference of around 30 mm is within any height adjustment.
Unless you think there would be an issue with pedal strike?

Sensible though.

Sensible Map is nice.

Some French 650b bikes especially tandems had lugged BBs with widely angled ports so that curved chainstays could be used to bring a big tyre and mudguard in tight and allow short chainstays with no dimples. I've seen a pic somewhere (Bicycle Quarterly probably) which shows a rear triangle without the wheel it's pretty cool.