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Cool, thanks man - will have a look at the Omniums.
Wasn't sure about road drops as I'll only have one brake lever and it looks a bit weird. I could always stick two levers on there I guess.
Forgot to list the brake, I was looking at the Avid Elixir 5.
I run 23mm tyres at the moment so was gonna go with 25s just because... will 28s or larger be any slower?
Just to double check, is the spacing of the dropout on the FXE 120mm?
Ta!
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Hi all,
I'm after a new bike and after some consideration have decided to build one myself. I have never done this before and consider myself one of the world's most unpractical people (I know that's not a word but impractical makes me sound like I'm annoying to use on a day-to-day basis, which is not the case).
I want a fixed gear bike with a disc front brake. I would like the ability to have mudguards and possibly a rear rack. I also want the build to be as light as possible. I am overweight (around 80kg but am a tiny manlet) and realise the folly of this, but I just like the feel of a light bike and I have to lug it up and down stairs every day.
I'm thinking of the following:
Frame - Dolan FXE
Forks - Kinesis DC37
Front wheel - Hope Pro 2 Evo laced to H Plus Son Archetype
Rear wheel - surly ultra fixed laced to H Plus Son Archetype
Crankset - Miche Primato Advanced
Bottom bracket - HELP (what do I need?)
Sprocket - TBC
Chain - KMC Z510HZ
Headset - Alpina (included with frameset?)
Stem - Deda Zero 100mm
Handlebars - Cinelli Lola
Front brake - Avid Elixir 5
Seatpost - Alpina (included with frameset)
Saddle - Selle Italia SLR
Pedals - Shimano M780XT
Tyres - Michelin Pro 4 25mmSo far cost has come out to 1,074 but I still need the bottom bracket, inner tubes and bar tape. Weight is 7.2KG but I'm not sure whether the listed weight of the FXE frameset includes the seatpost, clamp and headset?
I basically need to know whether (a) this will work and (b) if you would upgrade / swap any of the components I've listed.
I also need some advice on which bottom bracket to go for... dunno what I need so far as chainline goes but I assume it's whatever will give me 42mm?
Can anyone also recommend a tool set as well?
Link to Google drive spreadsheet here
Been stealing ideas from this thread... https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/221182/
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I don't suppose anyone has a rear SKS Raceblade mudguard they don't need any more? Mine fell out of the stays and it got run over :-(
The front is fine and the rear stays are still attached to my bike, I just need the actual mudguard bit to put on there.
Failing that, does anyone have contact details for SKS? You can't seem to buy the parts individually and I have been unable to find a website. Trying get a refund from Evans for the Raceblades has been unsuccessfull (actually I can't be fucked to take everything off my bike and spend money posting it to Evans on the off chance that they do actually decide to do something about it).
If anyone does have a mudguard I can give you some cash, donate to the forum or whatever. I don't have anything to swap.
Cheers
Dan
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Evans on Clapham Road t'other week - my chain came off just up the road, I couldn't get it back on as one of the bolts had seized in the dropout and I couldn't move the wheel forward (in addition, I suffer from mental retardation).
Went in to Evans just as they were about to close but a lovely young chap sorted it all out for me within a couple of minutes and sent me on my way. Thanks!
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Pretty sure mine are the 5700s and work great, lever wise I originally had the Specialized one that comes with the bike bit the bolt thread stripped really easily, replaced it with a cheapish Tektro which worked fine and now have a lovely Paul Components job.
What Paul Components lever do you have? Just had a look on their website - very nice!
Also can you get their stuff here or do you need to order from the US?
Ta.
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Shimano changed the brake cable pull ratio on 5700/6700/7900 so you shouldn't mix, say 5600 STI levers and 5700 brakes or vice versa.
Plain brake levers will work with either but the 5700s will feel more aggressive than the 5600s. I used 5700s on this with the Tektro RL cross levers (which I think are used on the Langster) and the braking was really quite sharp, it was easy to lock the rear. But nothing you wouldn't quickly get used to.
Ah, OK.
My Wangster has Specialized levers on it, not Tektro. The braks are alright but am getting the itch to start upgrading things a bit and this is probably the cheapest place to start. Plus the braks and leavers are black and I want everything to be SHINY!!
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Cheers for the replies, will probably spring for the 105s - is there any difference between the 5600s and 5700s? Also it says somewhere that you must have the specific types of lever to go with the brake - BS?
Wools, yeah I know... UTFS. Sorry :-(
You could try crashing against a brick wall, that'll defintely break it.
LOL I trol u trolololol
I am actually perfectly literate but just wondered whether anyone would take the bait. I am now using my smugness as lubrication to bring myself to a powerful orgasm.
Also I believe that I should have referred to 'braks', to use the parlance of our time?
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Hello there, my name is Dan and I am thinking of buying some new breaks for my langster steel as even though I have put new pads on their it is still not very keen on stoping
The tiagras were reccomended for a cheap upgrade, I don't know whether I would need to get the 49mm or 57mm drop - any advise?
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Hi there
This is my first post on the forum. I imagine that most of those that follow will be in a similar vein - completely pointless.
Currently riding a singlespeed 'vintage' chrome raleigh frame which is far too big for me and only has a front brake that doesn't really work very well. Waiting to sign up to cycle to work scheme (again) and will get myself something noice.
Peace out suckas
How do I figure out chainline etc. when using road cranks w/ single speed chainring? Looking at other threads where people have done this (or asked about it) has thoroughly confused me...
Also do you have any specific recommendations for 29er rims?
Ta.