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The Arkose has been thrown together quickly and it's already far better than expected. I love the Steamroller but this feels altogether more modern and well sorted.
Niggles and next steps. My EBB adjustment method is laughable but has done the job for now (will invest in a pin spanner) and i've not noticed any slipping. The brakes have come straight off the Condor so need some recabling and adjustment but they're decent enough already. Fit is very comfortable and even slammed there's more stack than the Steamroller. I'll probably leave 10mm or so steerer above the stem for now but the tower will be trimmed shortly. Guards went on very easily, so great to have proper fixing holes and vertical drop outs make taking wheel out so much easier.
50X19 is probably a little higher than i want. I could buy a 20t but as i think the Rotor's would be better on my road bike i think i'm going to convert some 165 105 cranks with a single ring and use either the 19 or 17 i already have on the back. There's a new nickel chain on there that doesn't fit well so i'll be replacing it with either a grey KMC or black Izumi. The brakes are ok but i suspect the ebay cable to the rear isn't compressionless as advertised so i'll replace it with some Jagwire and the new Lifeline pads are overlapping the rotors so i'll either need to shim the caliper or get some different pads.
Looks wise i think black slick tyres would work better and i'd like to replace some of the polished hardware with matt black. Guard fit is ok given the little attention i gave them but there's definitely a bit of fine tuning to be done. i've also been eyeing up some black XT touring pedals so i can ride in trainers for trips to the shop.
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Just replaced the pads on some Spyre C's with some lifeline jobs and the bottom of the pad is overlapping the inside edge of the main contact portion of the disc by a few mm. Can i safely shim the caliper to raise the height or should i look for different pads? Or is this a non issue? I can hear the disc arms scuffing the pads if i spin the wheel slowly.
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FWIW i was in a similar situation (bad scrape, non fault, driver didn't stop) and was quoted around £3K. I was worried what it would do to my premium but figured i'd take a cash pay out and see how bad my renewal was before deciding where/when to sort it properly (did a temp bodge). In the end i settled on £2K cash but my premium with my then insurer doubled. After asking on here i was recommended Keith Michaels insurance who got the price back down to my existing rate.
One year on i've just renewed with them for the same rate and have now found someone i trust to take on the work and repair the car properly. The car will end up better then before the hit and my premium is the same.
TLDR, as you know what you're doing you should get it sorted on your insurance.
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however I have really noticed how much better the new frame rides
New frame as in the new old steel one or old newer Ali one?
I also switched it to mtb pedals and that was a good move as I can ride it at times when riding is not the main objective.
I like the sound of this, might do the same on mine as current pedals mean turbo or FKW rides only.
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@jameso don't suppose you have a handy guide on how to adjust the EBB?!
I've loosened off the two M6 bolts and removed the cable guide for good measure. Initially i did a full assemble thinking i'd push on the cranks to rotate them but they weren't budging. The only way i can get the EBB insert to rotate in the frame is to put a BB tool on the external bearing shell and crank it. That moves things (feels/sounds a little coarse) but obviously is not feasible to do with the cranks on.
Do you know if the insert can drift from DS to NDS and vice versa? Want to be sure as i'm cranking on this thing that i don't mess the chainline up.
UPDATE/EDIT... Just found the two holes on the NDS, are these for a pin spanner? Bit surprised if this'll do it but then the stiffness may be the fact that it had drifted over and i was likely binding the BB shell on the frame!
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See post above!