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Thanks very much everyone. Understandably I'm pretty hacked off about it, partly becasue it throws all my plans for bespoked into the air.
At the end of the day it's bits of metal and plastic, and they can be replaced. If it doesn't come back I can build another one.
It was stolen literally from behind my back. It was hung up between two big metal doors at the entrance to the workshop, which isn't really overlooked. I suspect someone loading a van in the main yard clocked it, and had the brass balls to just lift it off the hook when I was 6ft away and stash it.
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The method we used was very easy(that easy know one in the group guessed, I was going down the clamp and surface table route!), hold two tubes together on the work bench and mark each end with a marker where they touch.
That's a really good technique if you don't have the clamp and table.
That's how I do it, clamp the tube to the plate, run an engineer's square along the length, let the thin steel edge make a nice light mark along the tube.
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I've got a few questions about that joint, hopefully you'll be able to answer. Hopefully I don't sound like too much of an arse either!
It looks to me like the braze hasn't been pulled all the way through from the exterior tube/lug interface to inside the lug, nor has it been pulled all the way around the exterior edge of the lug. In other words, it looks like you may have a poorly penetrated joint, at least in the pictures.
Now, that might be the photos, but it'd really be worth checking that - you should see the bronze everywhere that it can be pulled via capillary/heat action. Obviously the danger is that if there are gaps, the joint isn't going to be as strong as it could be. Is the joint complete, or is there more work to be done?
Have you done a practice one and cut it open to see how the brazing material has flowed inside the joint? That's well worth doing.
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You mean like this kind of thing?
Mr.Tanabe Kalavinka NJS frame building work - One(Fixation of bottom bracket) - YouTube
If you can use a table the layout and tacking you should be able to free-braze the joints in a workstand, provided you have a dummy axle for the back end.
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Yeah, this is the reason I went for the KM really - it felt like the sort of frame that you can really play around with in terms of setup.
100mm of travel is going to feel so plush after the CX racing. But, if I want to go for something a bit different I can swap the fork out for the rigid one.
It's not a bike, it's a platform :-)
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The model I went for is the RockShox TK 30 Gold, which is a replacement for the Recon Silver, but is a lot lighter.
£209 from Merlin http://www.merlincycles.com/rockshox-30-gold-tk-forks-29er-2014-65859.html which I thought was pretty good. I'm not after anything fancy, so this seemed to fit the bill.
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I had it done at Armourtex in Hackney.
I would recommend them, in that although I've had a couple of issues, any problems have been resolved with no hassle.
There's a couple of threads on here that shows their work if you want to see samples.
http://www.lfgss.com/thread9267-27.html for one.
Hopefully I can pick up the frame this weekend and start making some progress. Still waiting for the shifter and cog from SJS, but that order is due for dispatch next week.
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Not having much look with powder coating at the moment. It's been applied too thin on the top tube, and is mottled grey where the steel shows through, so it'll have to be done again.
In brighter news, the fork I wanted is on it's way. A RockShox 30 Gold TK with 100mm of travel. It's a new model for 2014, like the well-regarded Recon but a fair bit lighter.
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Some changes
Ambrosio Excellight on Zenith hubs
3T bar and stem
Fizik seat post.
Frame, fork, groupset, saddle all the same.