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Around the end of May, I'm planning on giving my touring-MTB a shakedown run by doing the South Downs Double (not in 24 hours though) if that appeals to you (and depending on what kind of bike you're planning on using - apparently a CX bike will do it easily). Otherwise I'm still up for bikepacking on my road bike, too.
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One day I will scan in all the interesting pages from the Cyclepedia book.
(I wouldn't recommend buying it; really poorly edited, full of technical errors, and too many dull run-of-the-mill bikes. edit - oh, you can get it for £12 now. Well, perhaps you should buy it then - it's a nice coffee-table book at least)
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Westwood is a style of rim rather than a manufacturer:

Rod/stirrup brakes work on Westwood rims, but your frame mightn't be able to accommodate them. An alternative is a front drum brake (some people say this will over-stress the fork, others say it won't... all the Dutch bikes I've seen have been so massively over-engineered that I'd say a front drum brake is fine (especially with a long torque-arm very securely bolted to the fork several times)).
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Would a moderator be able to change the title of my 'For Sale' thread? It was initially just a small clearout of selected bits, but has now turned into a 'sell almost everything I own' type-thread. Here it is:
http://www.lfgss.com/thread97804.html
I'd like to change it to "Constantly Updating Emigration Clearout - various bike parts and OT stuff" if that's okay.
Or should I delete the thread and start a new one with a new title?
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http://www.lfgss.com/thread97804.html
discount for Cov people
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Linseed/flaxseed oil over surface rust, if you really don't care what it looks like. It dries to a hard gummy finish and won't rub off all over your clothes, and you can re-apply it as necessary (about once every three months or so). Cheaper, easier and more effective than sanding/repainting (which, unless done very thoroughly and properly, just results in the steel rusting underneath the paint, causing the paint to flake off again). Just make sure you plop the oily rag into a bucket of water afterwards, else it might spontaneously combust.
Fitting a front brake is always advisable, if your frame can take one. However, being slow and with all the weight over the rear wheel means that rear-skids stop the bike pretty quickly (if I remember my time in Amsterdam correctly, which I almost certainly don't).
Personally I'd keep the stand, because they're both useful (when loading the proposed front basket) and cool (it'll make you stand out).
Got any photos?
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Just bought this, unseen. Made a cheeky offer and it got accepted.
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/531-f-w-evans-touring-frame-with-ta-chainset-/00/s/NzY4WDEwMjQ=/$T2eC16ZHJGQE9noMb,LuBQJ3Dj!HmQ~~60_35.JPG25" FW Evans touring frame. I'm trying not to get over-excited, but hopefully I've finally found the frame I've been after for years - a handsome steel light touring frame in XL size, with a relatively short top tube, and for a reasonable price. And (whisper it) being a touring frame might mean it has large enough clearances to take 650x42 tyres and guards (if brake drop isn't too much, that is... I'll go plain old 700c otherwise).
Let's hope that when it arrives, it doesn't turn out to be a shitheap.
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Why did you pay £20 when they're on ebay for £2?
What makes you think it'll be worth thousands when an Olympic coin from 1900 is only worth about £100?
You'd need to keep it for many, many generations before you see any kind of return on £100, especially considering that these are mass-produced items that literally thousands of people own.
Must be a troll.
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I'm thinking of selling my Olympus om-20. It's a great camera but I'm moving away for a while and won't be taking it with me:
Olympus OM-20 body
Olympus-Zuiko 50mm prime lens
Sigma 24mm prime lens
Sturdy 1970s black leather case (Zenit)
Flash
I'm thinking about £80 posted. It's all in pretty good nick - pm for details.