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Although the Trixie does have some spanners (and a single allen key) built in, they are completely rubbish and will round off your nuts and bolts. The problem with those flip-out multi tools is you can't get much leverage on them and they are flimsy (I have broken several; I just take allen keys with me instead, but can only fit two in my pack (enough for road bike, but not enough for mountain bike)) - this tool looks like it solves both of those problems.
Agreed that it could come with a larger pouch, though.
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Put up an ad in the wanted section, you might get tons of stuff. I have a few old chains and sprockets you can have.
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Too late, just emailed them to suggest it. Not my IP any more.
(Bugger)
Not your IP since you wrote about it on a forum, either!
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Edit#2: They could also include a couple of inserts that fit into the 15mm ring spanner and reduce it down to 10mm and 8mm for adjusting the nuts on some components e.g., sks mudguards, the cable clamp bolts on some cantis.
Very smart. You should make this.
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Looks excellent, although the spoke key presumably only has one or two sizes rather than four (wouldn't be too hard to introduce more).
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has anyone bought these cheap ebay lights? Kinda tempted to get something like this to do some night rides as it seems to be the only time im free.
Are they too bright (dazzle other road users)?
Which is best to get? (cree xml, ssc p7 etc)Yep, I have the Cree XM-L T6 whatsit for my MTB. I would take the lumen rating with a pinch of salt - the units seem to be the same regardless of whether the lumen rating is advertised as 900 or 1600! The quality seems variable, but mine was fine; if you get a duff one you can send it back, anyway.
They are un-usably bright on high beam; on low beam they are fine for road use. I haven't run mine flat so I don't know what the battery time is, but other internet users suggest that it is about three hours. I have bought a diffuser lens for mine as the beam is too narrow for MTBing (might be okay for road) - also, they don't have any side visibility so you'll need another backup light, too.
The value is stunning - you'd have to spend £150 to get anything as bright from a UK bike shop. No idea how long the chinese ones last; for £25, even if it just lasts for a year, that's still cheaper than a bike-shop one that lasts for three or four years.
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Though I have this problem with it : The point of a bicycle is it's simplicity, there is little to go wrong, it is easy to fix. I'm honing the steering system is simple and sturdy. Making a bike more complicated and fiddly is going in the wrong direction.
It's pretty simple - I couldn't find a photo so I drew something:
Grey tube represents the frame, blue tubes are steerers, green balls are pivots. The only added complication is the few knuckle joints (the pivots), which work reliably on cars and rarely need replacing. -
http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html#tension
This should tell you all you need to know (also, chains don't stretch).
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Handsome frame and a very good price - undoubtedly some good-quality tubing given the amount of work that has been put into it.
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The frame's quite nice, but the paint and the build is awful.
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Your posts would be more suitable, and garner more responses, in 'Current Projects'.
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Stop posting in this thread.
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Stuff added and prices dropped.
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Take it back and get a replacement. Or get a hacksaw - almost as neat if you're careful and use a guide, and it has other uses too.
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I get sucked in by the Rider Down forum, and going on youtube invariably leads to those awful headcam videos. I actively try to avoid both of these as they scare me and lead me to dwell on my own near misses. Then I force myself on to the bike and an hour later I wonder what I was worrying about - the vast majority of my rides, and the vast majority of drivers, are fine.
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I'll provide a full 1 year guarantee.
Scout's Honour?
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Potentiodibs "3. RPM Vero crankset with 48t chainring, used with scuffs etc but threads and tapers are fine = £30" pending PM.
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I have a drop handlebar you can have for nowt.
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Still after:
1/8 chain
LockringAnd anyone got any 165mm cranks?
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Anyone got a 700c fixed rear wheel up for sale? Preferably 32 or 36h, low-profile rim, all silver but anything considered.
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It's only my beater Winter bike
Phew.
Hmm. I would drill the dropout through, pin it, and weld it up. Or maybe fabricate some thin (1mm) dropout-shaped plates and weld either side of the dropout (would need a longer axle, perhaps). You can do all of that yourself, except the welding bit. There is (or was) an excellent welder in Kelvedon, if you're willing to travel that far - he fabricated a new frame for my old 1960s convertible car's roof for about fifty quid, and it only took him a day.
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Old Dunstan Road and Dansey's Pass Road, both in Otago, NZ. My cousin went there and said you can drive all day and only see one other person. The population density of the South Island is lower than Russia... very much looking forward to cycling these roads later this year/early next year.
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Good idea. Get out on the roads, witness the appalling driving from those that passed their test from 1 - 50 years ago and tell me how changing a test now helps that?
It doesn't, but introducing it now means that in thirty years the majority of drivers will have had it. Better late than never, no? Also; what Dammit said. Maybe refresher courses every few years (if £).
And while you are at it tell me why drivers would take note and apply what they have learn't about cyclists but ignore everything else they have learnt.
They don't ignore everything they've learnt. How can you explain the fact (not the 'anecdote') that countries with poor standards of education have poor standards of driving? I have asked this question three times now. Education changes behaviour.
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anecdote
anecdote
For goodness' sake. The data (look it up) says:
- Countries with tougher tests have lower death rates
- Countries that actively teach pro-cyclist stuff to drivers are safer for cyclists
Road safety is a combination of several factors, with education being a major one. Seeing as you think education is pointless, what would your solution be?
EDIT - As I feel I am getting drawn into an internet argument, I will try to avoid posting in this thread any more.
- Countries with tougher tests have lower death rates
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This is exactly what I dislike about the Pedros tool - the stepped spanner can only apply force on 2 of the six corners on a nut, so it damages nuts far more easily than a normal six-sided spanner.
The best spanners are those with rounded cutout sections at the intersections of the straight parts of the hexagon - they apply force to the sides of the nut rather than the corners, so you can transmit far more force before you damage the nut. I'd be very impressed by any multi-tool that was this well-engineered.