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Considering that you guys designed and got these caps manufactured, and are now selling them as a business venture...you really need to get used to accepting criticism, just like i have to.

If you have a problem with the way i run my business then go ahead and tell me on my thread...there is no censorship on this forum remember.

Unless of course it's to do with a criticism of these caps obviously.

CRUD?
Pete Tompkins is a bloody millionaire!!!
Out of interest, why is Crud having their products on the LFGSS stand?
I thought you were showcasing manufacturers from the 'community' ?

Tempers behaviour

The last problem is simply clearance as others have mentioned.

A lot of track forks have very tight clearance.
In order to allow tyre clearance, the plate will need to be pretty thin, which increases flex.
A front brake can exert a lot of force, which will flex this plate and give poorer braking power.

This can be helped by keeping the plate as close to the crown as possible obviously, but again, there are several types of crown with differing widths, which means you'll need to allow for the widest.

There may also be an issue with the plate 'rotating' slightly under the crown.

Not all brakes pull evenly on both sides, either due to spring tension or poor setup, or wonky wheels, or uneven pad wear etc. Again the braking force and vibrations due to flex in the plate could possibly cause some slight rotation and hence brake rub.
Slight rotation back n forth could lead to loosening.

Just trying to cover all eventualities. :]
This could again depend on the shape of the front of the fork crown.

you may also find that in some forks, the diameter internally will go from very small at the crown to bigger only a little higher up.

This means if you hammer your double star nut through the small entry hole it may then be loose higher up right where it needs to grip.

Star nuts may dig into the steerer, but they also place all the load on a much smaller area.
Don't underestimate the forces and vibration that heavy braking will place on each edge of each star nut fin.
Not to mention the threads of the securing bolt, which will only be holding by a smaller number of the threads an expanding wedge bolt will.

something like this one allows a huge surface area for both grip, and support...

But also, don't forget that pretty much ALL aftermarket wedges AND starnuts will be the wrong size, as the base of most steerers on older track bikes will have smaller internal diameters to the top of the steerer.
Some cast crowns have very little space inside, which again means that the braking force stress will need something with higher strength inside than starnuts.

IMO of course. :]

A star nut isn't the best of both worlds...an expanding wedge is, and i don't mean a quill style wedge.

The types used for carbon steerers make the most sense as they expand evenly all the way round unlike a stem style wedge quill, but they also allow tensioning against the base of the fork like a star nut whilst still allowing complete removal without resorting to hammers and scoring the inside of the steerer.

let the bag-off begin...

Hardly, I don't make bags anymore. :]

I've been bitten by the touring bug and I'm building up a Surly Long Haul Trucker. I'm taking my time on it (not required until next May)

Wow, it takes nine months for the bite to take effect?

Although freeride has since morphed into 'All mountain' these days anyway and changed everything again.
The days of the big huck style freeride bikes are gone now really.

Sighhh...Everything was much simpler in the 8O's. :]

ok...take deepest suspension as a typo...what I meant to say was...best...aha...copout...;D. though, like I said on the previous page the closer the remit gets to a motocrosser the better 'they' will be, the whole front big wheel thing has to be step in the right direction as each wheel performs better for the two different tasks required? just thinking anyway.
I don't know much about the differences though surely you mean the oposite? that the downhill bike is longer with deeper suspension as it is only going downhill fast withtout the intricacies of freeride? freeride being more technical?
if thats what you meant ignore me...! ;D

Freeride bikes do tend to have longer travel than pro elite DH race bikes as a DH race is over far more quickly, so some loss of comfort is preferable if it means a gain in speed and traction, as well as a loss in weight.
The difference between a DH race bike and a crosser is that you don't have an engine to help carry the extra weight and fight against the wallowing travel.

I was meaning purely for DH bikes personally. I agree there is no point having both for anything else.

So how about tubes AND sealant? As in sealant filled tubes, with some sealant in the tyre casing too...possible?

Makes sense i guess.

"They are very cheap and, with so much in life, you get what you pay for. If that is all you can afford, maybe; but I would strongly suggest that you will get more value for money and far greater enjoyment from a bike built with slightly more expensive and therefore better components."

It'll be a nice surprise for them then when they join the forum and find out that the online response is more like...
"Fucking load of shit...every fucking thing breaks on them...you'd have to be a fucking hipster twat or something to buy one. Anyway, why didn't you use the fucking search you cunt"

:]

Hmm...i wonder why the people that are using bigger wheels for DH at the moment, who's only complaint is pinch punctures, aren't using tubeless. They pretty much eliminate those right?

I hasn't been following DHers for a while, but is there any DHers still using 24" wheels?

Not at top level...never really were though.

So if you do need to stick a normal tube in there on a ride, do you end up with sealant coming out and all over your hands?
I've never really had any experience with tubeless as i've never bought a new MTB since they sorted the system out.

No problems with running tubeless? I'm always curious as to how they are to fix if you 'should' puncture while out. Do you need to use more sealant?

True...suspension these days is pretty good, i'm sure he could be posting on his iphone while riding. :]

I don't mean this second. :]

What bouncy bike are you riding just now Mr Smyth?

you even PMed me to apologize for ruining the surprise! :]

hehe...i remember that. :]

This reminds me of the time i convinced several forum members that i had been asked to design a bag for the new Rambo movie! :]