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Sorry, I now see that the Avanti is a cassette hub rather than a screw-on, so, no you'll not be able to easily change it to fixed - you could use Velosolo's spacers to make it a single-speed hub if you wanted.

48 / 18 is probably not a bad gear to be starting off with, 48 / 16 possibly a bit high.

What kind of hub is on the rear wheel? It might be possible to simply use the existing wheels: if it is an older screw-on block the wheel could be re-spaced and re-dished and you could just put a sprocket on the back.

Re the chainset, if it is not knackered it might be worth trying out the ?42 ring on the outside of the spider, see if that gives a useful chainline at the front.

The most confusing......^^^^
Conflicting info from Betd also!
My goldtecs have 45mm chainline, i have Da7600 crank with 111 campy bb.
112 would probably be perfect though!

Prior to getting my Goldtec, I emailed the company to clarify this, as it is pretty clear that most users make it 45 - 46 mm. Goldtec confirmed the 42.5 mm figure.

Obtained hub, measured it: 46.5 mm. (This refers to recent hubs, mine was obtained 6 months ago or so).

I wonder if they are measuring to the shoulder rather than to the middle of the teeth on the sprocket?

Anyway, I am now going down the Phil hub route, to be paired with either Sugino 75 or Campag Pista chainset (undecided). This is for a Bob Jackson Vigorelli.

No need to apologise, there seems to be conflicting information on it, including from Campag's own site.

I was under the impression that the 111mm Centaur is symmetrical. Certainly says so on the leaflet in the box.

Looking on the transmission thread it appears that people are using a campy centaur 111mm with the sugino 75 cranks to match a 45mm spaced goldtech hub. Not sure if i'm being dumb but sugino 75's take a 109 to make 42, so using the campy 111 would only give 43 at the front not 45?

I thought I'd resurrect this thread rather than start again...

Can anyone clarify the above point? I make a Goldtech chainline to be 45 or maybe even 46 mm, with a bit of variation between sprockets. I make a Phil to be 43 to 44 mm. The database seems to show that some are using the Sugino 75 / Campag 111 mm combination with both Phils and Godtecs. They cannot both give a correct chainline. Any recent direct experience?

Aonther reason for my puzzlement is that the White Industries or Phil BB recommended for Sugino 75s seem to be 108 mm rather than 111.

Phil are chatting shit to try and get you to buy their own cog.

Does make me wonder - let's face it, if it was the case that an EAI sprocket was really all that much thicker than other brands, then the lockring thread problem would happen to all hubs, not just Phils.

Main thing to consider is your chainline - see examples of combinations that have worked for others in that thread.

Thanks again. Re chainline, yes I've been perusing the database. As well as the Phil hub and a choice of sprockets including EAI, I have at my disposal a 111 mm Campag BB. Thus, cranks-wise, my options appear to be Sugino 75 cranks or Campag Record Pista.

dancing james, I have an EAI cog that has not had much use so I'd like to keep using it if it's safe enough on the hub.

I appreciate that there are quite a few people in the transmission database using EAI sprockets on Phils, but they may or may not be using a lockring, and they may or may not have stuffed their lockring threads.

Thanks mattty: I take it you used a lockring?

Hi all
Advice from those using the above combination appreciated: Phil Wood advise that using EAI sprockets on their hubs is slightly risky if using a lockring. Apparently EAI cogs take up more space and prevent the lockring from using all the available threads, hence a risk of ruining the lockring threads.
Side-stepping the lockring / no lockring debate (I prefer to use one), have any of you who use this combination had any problems?
Thanks for any advice.

Cheers all. I'm surprised the usual on-line suspects don't seem to have them.

Hi all

Does anyone have a source for axle locknuts for the System EX hub?

Preferably better quality than the originals, one of which has just cracked.

SP

Well, the BB has been moved over to the right a couple of mm and all looks well. I'll need to keep a close eye on it as I am pretty positive there has been movement of some kind somewhere along the way - in other words that clearance was not so tight when the bike was first built. So - movement of the crank on the taper, or movement of the whole BB?

Hi all. Quite glad to have found this thread to add to as I don't yet have thread-starting privileges. I have a Bob Jackson Vigorelli, with Miche Primato Advanced crankset and 107 mm BB, System EX hubs which are supposed to be 42 mm, and an EAI sprocket. I've had the bike a few months but only noticed this yesterday - so I've no idea if this is a recent development. Distance between the pedal ends of the crank arms and the chainstays is, I also note, shows it is all slightly to the left.

Pics:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v138/Chickenhawk66/P1000641.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v138/Chickenhawk66/P1000651-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v138/Chickenhawk66/P1000645.jpg

I've no idea if that mark was due to contact but it certainly looks like it :( I'm pretty worried, but it does look as if it has only just gone through the paint.

Some questions:

What is the best solution? Chainline seems ok at the moment. Is this fixable by having the BB moved over to the right a mm or 2?
Is there a manual online on how to fit the Miche BB? Is there a Miche paste or thread compound for this? Am I looking at a f'in 'mare of BB woe here and would I be best to make some major changes to BB / crankset?

Your advice appreciated.

A most excellent mod, scott not scot, thanks for posting. I'll not be shedding any tears for the Hope bracket - good enough if you never need to take the light off, but pretty hopeless on the QR front.