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Just found out the ICA on The Mall is being closed for the duration of the Olympics. I was hoping to use their reading room to finish my thesis. argh.
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^^^^ rep for dedication!
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nah the sensible decision would be to keep the frame and ride it properly
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that we aren't psychic
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aha! this is what a blaze brake looks like
so to remove the brake just untighten the allen key at the back of the fork. then pull the brake and the pin away from the fork as one unit. the recessed allen key nut is left in the frame and can be removed freely or with some WD40 to loosen it.
this is what the recessed nut should look like, it will be buried in the frame.
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how did you remove the brakes? did you take off those little black caps?
Normally these are left in place and you remove the brake from behind the fork crown/rear brake bridge with a spanner or an allen key, keeping the whole of the rest of the brake in one piece.
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lush group set, i foolishly sold one but really liked the look of it.
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there is the old knee/pedal axle rule of thumb:
get a friend to check your knee is over the pedal axle when the pedals are in the 9/3 o'clock position. how does it compare to you're old bike/other bikes.
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i think there are weird shims which go between the fork crown and frame. They may work depending on the amount of steerer on your fork and the rake/head angle of your frame and fork. Even if they do work they will alter the bikes geometry and can be a bad idea for handling etc.
This is probably why BMX and trick specific frames were designed.
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Finished doing the vivalo pantographing, need to sort out a chain and some wrap+plugs for the bars
Has a fair bit of dura ace but is by no means an NJS build prepares to get flamed
Couldn't get the image to embed with rotation correct but you get the gist of it!
I'd avoid that stem, doesn't match, possibly too long and welded stems like that are more prone to failure* than a traditional stem made from one piece of alloy.
*learned the hard way.
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It's hard to see what part your talking about with this pic. Any chance of a close up.
I dont think I have ever come across a fork crown with a thread for the caliper, normally the bolts holding on the front brake just run through the fork crown and tighten with a nut on the back. In more modern designs this nut is recessed into the fork crown and is tightened with an allen key. It should slide out of the back of the fork crown with a bit of push/shove.
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Old beer/soft drinks cans do alright.
+1
cut the cans into strips coil round the bar, secure with electrical tape and add the bracket.
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Get well soon! how long are you entombed in plaster for?
Have you got a turbo or rollers - might be safest option :-( -
proof that if you think of it, it's already in the internet
"The DonJoy OTS wrist brace is constructed from a composite of Kevlar, epoxy resin and carbon fibre making it lightweight, exceptionally strong and very low profile."
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if it gets wet just sculpt it into some sort of aerodynamic arm fairing.
everyone will want one.
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What are you going to put the nail/screw into? That's probably more important. Any decent screw will hold 7kg as long as it's in a decent piece of timber etc. However if in doubt this wont break the bank £1.31p:
http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/product/17558/Park_Tools_Wood_Thread_Storage_Hook -
I heard some guy did Dunwich Dynamo on one last year...
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WW builds are serious business
Indeed, you could save a 1/4 g from bar end plugs with a bit of drillium and no loss of performance!
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Too heavy.
A while back i bought a couple of these, they are pretty much the lightest readily available clinchers and i thought they would be ace for criteriums. problem was the first one blew up on my way to the first race and the second one didn't do much better. avoid.
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How far has this project some along? Any chance of a list of the parts your set on and possibly their weights? Then we can suggest ideas for the remainder of the build.
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i know Di2 would be way more fun but...
i'm fairly sure 9/10 speed stuff will be compatible anyway. I have 9speed campag shifters and mechs working with a 10 speed shimano chain and casette. it works fine and means i can swap wheels between my 2 bikes regardless of the groupset.
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that attaches to a water bottle holder isn't it?
well if you can live with that and some chunky mechs, go for it! I think the Di2 shifters look nicer than standard too. For the same money you oculd probably get a period dura ace group with a bit of hunting around, maybe that would be good too.
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objections to electronic groupsets aside, i think it's fine. Nothing wrong with tastefully updating bike frames and a Colnago Lux Dream isn't that old is it, certainly in the STI era. Where would you mount the battery?
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well i guess the good thing to learn from this is that no one has heard of this happening so at worst it must be rare. Thanks for all the input.
LFGSS
London Fixed Gear and Single-Speed is a community of fixed gear and single-speed cyclists.
so you can prove that your holiday was bigger/longer/better/more epic :-)
...and then plot graphs about it.