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TT motherlode - reep?

WTF!!!!???

just spectacular

CSB

Also, wobbly crank + Halfords = temporary bodge.

Your crank shouldn't come loose. Is it square taper?

Only works if you also brag about your RPM

The riding position is still more Chopper than Skidder.

:0

Its hids

Lol, he spent £280 on that wheel. What a sucker.

Sounds a fair price or what he got

your all torque

49 - 17 for me. Toyed with 49 - 15 for a while but, as always, everyone was right; My knees hurt and it wasn't any faster. So that comes out for the track only now.

The stems only short because its been crashed into that wall. Before it was crushed it was probs a 100mm

Oh is that what those stumps are for?

The front brake cuts the air, but has a lower profile than the area of fork behind it, so less drag. The fork then effectively drafts the brake, hence faster speeds. This is why they were banned on track in the early days, they gave an unfair advantage over those who couldn't afford brakes. Nowadays almost everyone can afford one, but the rule has remained.

You get about 1.8mph extra on most 'standard' setups.

The problem wasn't only not being able to afford them when you start getting above 25mph the fork, because of its greater aero advantage, can start moving faster than the brake I have seen pics where the fork has actually overtaken the brake completely and the rider has been thrown over the front.

Just changed bars. I now have the confidence to get out of the saddle. Not sure yet but I might replace the rolls with a banana seat.

Can you please explain what this is.

Is it an extended kids bike?

Ahh I did wonder if this might be the case, its not an old frame but perhaps the threads have not been threaded far enough. My plan is to take it to my buddies bike shop and spend an afternoon ensuring everything is threaded perfectly, and correct torque.

Somebody told me a funny story along those lines yesterday.

London West testers will be familiar with the parties. As you know, in his later years Chris Hart kept riding in spite of his body letting him down, and as a result had various special frames made to accommodate his special needs. One was a TT frame with geometry adapted to take a suspension fork, which naturally gave the tall stack height he needed and reduced the jarring which troubled his old bones. On Chris' demise, Mick Fountain inherited the contents of his bike shed, and thought to repurpose this bike for his own use, and in spite of his grey beard Mick still gets as low as anybody. So, he bethought himself to simply drop a road fork into this frame to bring matters down to his level. What he had not allowed for, or seemingly noticed in his haste, was that Chris had shaped the frame to have a low BB, another concession to his dotage with which many ancients will sympathise. So, upon setting out for the first time on this new steed, the already low BB, now dropped even further by the radically shortened fork, and in combination with some doubtless length cranks, meant that MIck travelled no more tha a few feet before his pedal hit the ground - not while cornering, mind, but in a straight line!

/csb

ultimate CS. I will summarise for people who can't be bothered.

[CSB]Guy inherits odd bike, changes fork, gets pedal strike. [/CSB]

Tightening torque for AC-S and AC-H cartridge square taper BBs is 70Nm, right cup first. If your BB shell is properly prepared, this should work, without distorting the cartridge housing. You'll probably find your left cup shoulder is closer to the shell once you've done it up to the correct torque.

There are only two versions, 68mm BSC and 70mm ITA, using the same cartridge core with different cups.

I see.

The cups do say 70nm on them. I don't have a torque wrench so I can't test this but it was pretty fucking tight on both sides I was heaving quite hard. Perhaps its the fact that the bb shell hasn't had the threads run through for a while and it has never been reamed (correct term?)

The only possible Issue I can see is that the left crank arm runs closer to the left cup than the right hand arm runs to the right cup. I guess that proves that the left hand cup is not tight against the BB unit yet.

As long as no one thinks its going to cause any major problems I will deal with it as soon as i get the time.

seam-less start and 2-colour harlequin nailed (with strips of paper, some highlighter pens and a broom handle)

#slightlybored

Lol

I think It's bed time

It must be, I had a girlfriend called Maddy at school and now she's into warhammer and vikings and shit. Dodged a bullet there.

Said as he posts on his super hip double cool bike forum

Could be nitto dynamic

best title ever

Fixie Fixed Gear Bike Cycle New Mens Ladies Urban Flip Flop Hub Single Speed

Needs unpacking

I wonder if we will look back in a few years time to page 3 of this thread in the same way we look back to page 3 of the porn thread now... I hope not.

My two current faves, the japs seem to have it spot on in my opinion with weird mutli- colour schemes, love it.

Page 3 ... Teehee

Ally I think but those could be carbon components perhaps even ti bolts

The step ladder of course.

^ depends on the thread - BSA thread is usually 68mm,
70mm is for an italian thread.
If I understand the question correctly, if your BB cups are not in contact with the sealed BB assembly it is possible for the BB assembly to shift position in within the cups - this may lead to chainline issues, or worse still, crank arm striking on chainstay
In short, you either need un-flanged bb cups that you can screw into the shell until they meet the assembly, or some form of spacer between the bb assembly and the cups.
hope that makes sense

It is an English threaded campy Veloce (so no adjustable cups) I see with shimano UN54 you can get a range of diff shell widths (68, 70 & 73) but all English threaded. As far as I can tell the left cup is now tight against the bb unit but there is approx 2mm between the shoulder and the bb frame shell. I know my frame has a 68mm bb so it makes me think it must be 70 mm shell. Also the left hand crank arm is a little further out from the frame then the right arm. Chain line is fine and right hand arm clears stay. So i guess the question is does this sound normal? Should I drop in a 2mm spacer? or perhaps has the left hand side of my bb not been threaded far enough and I have hit the end of the thread (unlikely I think).

I can take a photo tomorrow if this still isnt clear

The posters are great the bike is about as nice lookin as the step ladder

I want some evidence that BringMeMyFix is in any way in the position to make claims about safety. I have been doing laps of RP for a while I have never had an accident now someone tells me its dangerous, I am not necessarily saying he is wrong just that so far I have been presented with nothing that is convincing.

A good example is the continuous use of the phrase rush hour. from 6 45 - 7 45, when we usually ride, traffic volume is pretty low. Does this mean its ok by your standards to ride at this time?

May the 4th be with you?

repped!

C(s)B

ChainBreaker has been trying to get me to change my name (too much confusion) i am seriously considering CSB