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Hi,
One of the links on my chain has snapped (just on one side luckily so nothing major).
It has done what I would consider to be very light mileage, what could be the cause of this breakage?
My chain line is good, the chain is a TAYA 1/8 model that I got from halfords probably cost around £10.
Any Ideas?
As a side issue, what chains are considered reliable and where is the best place to buy them in the East London/ Bank area?
thanks
skinnygav
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http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300357800382&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
I wanted it at the time, not at 220 though.
How tall are you by the way?
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Hi all,
I ride a straight forward road bike, i'm tall 6ft4/5ish.
my current bike measures
seat tube centre to top 62cm
tope tube 59cmThere is a low pro i'm looking at that is similar in style to this one...
http://www.londonfgss.com/thread31641.html#post1012992
The frame I am looking at is 61cm 56cm, is there any chance that this is big enough?
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This clearly shows you were tightening it no where near enough in the first place. You will indeed have to move over chainring or get different BB. Make sure you pay attention to chainline when doing so.
I personally tighten up cranks with all my might.
agreed, thanks for all the info guys, will take the bike off the road for a while for a bit of a rebuild.
i didnt realise that they don't just tighten to their original position when you 'push' them on to the BB spindle. Anyway living and learning.
thanks again
skinnygav
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If you're using the handy tool type allen key, you're probably are not levering enough torque on the bolt. I don't like the blue loctitie either. 14 have some excellent anit shake stuff that sorted my lock ring that was continuously coming loose when using the blue shite. If you are worried about over tightening refer to the manufacture's quoted values. If you need, I have a dial measuring torque wrench that you could use.
The best way to get a good fit is this:- Put the cranks on
- tighten to the stated torque
- take an easy ride for about 100 yards
- then re-tighten to the stated torque
- repeat parts 3 & 4 but increasing the intensity of each subsequent ride until the bolt/crank on longer moves up the taper.
I tightened the drive side up using my wratchet and socket with alan key thing (sorry non technical terms).
This gave me much more leverage than my normal alan key, unfortunately my chainring ended up against the frame (the chainstays).
current plan of action is to try the chainring on the outside of the cranks as opposed to the inside but i'm not sure if the extra tightening will give me a straight chainline.
If not i suppose i will need a new BB with a different spindle length?
- Put the cranks on
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depends how tight you screw them up in the first place, if your like skinnygav you need to go to a bikeshop or get someone not so skinny to do the up!
skinnygav is just my forum name, i can tighten it aplenty but i'm a bit concerned about overtightening.
my cranks and BB are new, everything is fine, they just loosen for some reason.
Can i break anything by overtighteing them?
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hi,
has anyone got a good set of toe cages (or some other foot retention method suitable for mks sylvan pedals) for someone with size 11 feet?
I currently have cinelli ones, no idea what size but they are definately too small as they have started to cause the arch of my foot to hurt.
thanks
skinnygav
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What is it with back gardens having spare bits of scaffolding lying around?
I have no idea what this is, which is worrying and means I need to read more and probably should go to a shop.
yeah not sure what it was doing there...
this is quite a decent read, ignore the bit about the orientation of the bearing retainers because it was wrong for my headset (tange levin).
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=127
i definately think there is value in DIY'ing, if i were you i would get the headset pressed at your LBS then do the rest yourself tools/energy/interest permitting.

installation error? how so? surely it is either installed or it isn't or am i missing something?