Search results for:

everyone here's a nob, i've moved on from this forum. i just check several times a day to see if everyone's still a nob. and you all still are. lovely.

"LF"
enter.
click.
click.
scroll.
sigh.
back.
click.
scroll.
eh.
cntrol+W

just just go straight. is that an american race?

I get your joke.

i know nothing about these races other than the few vids i saw yesterday. "Trophy truck racing"

i was mostly impressed with the trucks, which is why i though to post it here. the roads arent even close to a "road", and yet these guys haul ass. vids taken from the outside of the truck give you a better idea of how rouch the going is.

it really is bad ass driving.

edit: first vid that came up. ok i'm done now. back to cars.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AH9uqIYjhEo&feature=related

and these must be the best sounding cars ever

i used to be impressed by the speeds these guys on sloppy roads reach and then i saw this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GWOnjFnikM

takes about 4 minutes to dish the wheel over. take it to a shop. they'll do it for a small fee.

Sherms: thats what i meant. sorry. dur.

fishface: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html is the most he has on it. there are some blanks you'll have to sort out. gear (cog) spacers won't do the job, as you're likely 10mm+ too far center. You have to basically move the axle spacers from the right side to the left moving the hub over to the right. there's a picture showing the bits on that site, with a blurb.

In the image below, imagine that your gear (cog) is on the left side (backwards).

If you wanted to move the hub (and the gear/cog) over to the left (also backwards), you'd theoritically move some of the axle spacers from the left side to the right side, effectively shifting the whole hub unit to the left.

again this image is showing most of the spacers on the left, which is not what your hub looks like. This is the final product you want. You'll be starting with most of the spacers on the right and you want to move them left. Just imagine what i'm saying and flip the image, and replace all the lefts with rights, etc...

of course this will then move the rim over also, leaving your wheel off center.

to fix this, you then need to dish the wheel back over. DIshing is accomplished by losening one side of spokes, two or three turns and tightening the other side by the same amount. You need a wheel truing stand to have it done well.

Honestly it's really dead simple and can be done in about 10-15 minutes with experienced hands. It might take you a couple hours, assuming you have the tools and the patience to figure it out with fucking anything up royally.

yea i know. so foolish, but i felt like i had to say something. sometimes buttons are pushed. i'm done now.

No, I did it to demonstrate, rather than simply state, that the limit you call "dumb" is actually perfectly sensible, and that preview images of acceptable size are plenty large enough to allow viewers to decide whether they want to see the full size. Placing huge images in line is dumb, which is why it's so common on 'Merkin fora.

Common on American forums? Thats amost a laughably ridiculous statement. Regardless....

First of all, NSMB is Canadian... so unless you're refering to north american forums, i don't know what you're saying. Either way, dumb. Second, I don't vist any forums other than this one and NSMB, so i wouldn't know whats "common." Third, if you EVER go the current projects thread, you'd know every project i ever post is linked from my flickr account with a tiny display image linked to a full size shot. Considering that you are one of the more active members on this site, i'd think such an observation isn't beyond your resolution.

That said, even if you didn't know the third point I just made, you were still being ridiculous and approaching the silly issue in a backwards manner so as to make an example of me.

next time, rather than roping me into this shit show, just say "yea better that way though(t), upload and hyperlink smaller images if it's worth your trouble"

Purely for example, with no comment on its pornworthiness

Other image hosts, including the LFGSS CDN, are available.

omfg. you rehosted the image and hyper linked it, just to give me a hard time?? you can't be this big of a tool.

ok i'm off this forum for the day. you have fun now.

now that I've quoted for permanence, go ahead and try embedding one of those images.

then i'll fix your post.

I agree about that bike, with the one drivetrain gripe that I think it should be freewheelin with a rear brake and a smaller gear.

i can see it's 650, but the gear still looks steep.

noted that

i've never ridden a bike with that much sweep for any extended period, but i imagine they are at the far chill end of the spectrum.

that too.

main point being the over application of "riser bars" is poor choice and a better options almost always exist for bikes that are meant to be mostly chill and comfy but retain some quickness when needed.

where ever one thinks they should put "riser bars" do whats best and use three speed bars.

this isn't meant to be an insult or some kind of "what traditionally done" thing. Riser bars carried over form MTBs when hipsters were building fixed gears and needed something other than drops.

A much better choice is a nice set of three speed bars like i posted above. Much more comfortable and you won't feel like you're waterskiiing when riding the thing.

the only advantage to riser bars is if you are riding very agressively, on a bike with a very short reach and a tall saddle to bar drop.

if you a primarily cruising around quickly seated, then three speed bars win almost every time.

i'll post.

mai girl rides this, which i built for her. She loves it. The forumula is simple: brakes, smallish frame, shorter reach, easy gear, comfy seat, a longish fork with a decent amount of rake to allow some flexing over bumps, pedals that are gentle on both feet and nice shoes with thin soles, and three speed bars.

this is an old Miyata.

maybe a 51cm? 52? She's about 5'6".

Click to make bigger.

personally i think toe clips are unnecessary and also very impractical to use with proper nice shoes. I just go dual sided platforms and tend to choose plastic or rubber jobs so as to not mess up the leather sole of nicer shoes. No one wants to wear Vans all the time.

for the love of all that is holy, please don't spray the bike pink like every other girl on the planet!! ;-)

tip: don't strip it clean. just sand it smooth with 300, then 250, then 150, then hit it with primer, and then your color. Paint sticks to paint better than it sticks to metal. You can get a nice pain job for about the price of a pair of socks.

another tip: If you do strip it and you want to keep it raw, this stuff actually *works *(if the past three weeks mean anything). And you can re-apply it without taking the bike apart. just spray it and ride it. hell i've been lubing my chain with it. I consider it the best product in a can i've come across in a long time.

hahah you guys like that Evil? thats funny. Very important company in the MTB world.

anyway tiny bikes have become much nicer in recent years. that bike is ancient and sort of serves no real practical purpose in the current dogma of MTBs. Honestly its completely anti-porn, and a product of the couple of years of complete confustion MTBs went through in the early 2000's.

Basically it's attemtpting to combine the uses that these three bikes each have.... all of these are total fucking porn. that last bike, the Black Market Mob is truly a sick sick frame.
Check em out: [ame="http://bb.nsmb.com/showthread.php?t=134292"]new steeeds so trusty so steedy - North Shore Mountain Biking Forums[/ame].
i can't embed images because of the dumb size limit on this forum.

What the fuck is all this shit about London roads?

When you see a pot hole, steer round it you fucking clowns, this also applies to kerbs and other wheel hurting obstacles.

finally.

blocking 8th cog? You're blocking your 1st cog. I'm making the clarification because i want to make a point, below.

If you're blocking your 1st cog with the limit screws, be sure to leave the extra cable in the "9th" position so that you can only over shift to a "too lose" cable and not too a "too tight" cable. this is especially important if you're using a newer indexed system as you can not only place a huge amount of stress on your derailleur by over shifting, but also fux up your shifter.

anyway, if you're blocking the 1st cog and it's still fucked, you have a bent system. Either the derailleur or the hanger.

take it to a shop and they'll use the every overpriced tool posted above to sort it out.

i can't find any chip with cheese.

nice ride, but cliche and not porn.

my opinion is teh only correct one.

opinion of the day: Get black grips, black bar, black tires, black brake lever, lose the bar ends.

Was only joking, but i'll take the biscuit. Coffee too please.

just get the decals back on it. takes some real planning to make a bike look good without decals.